Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
I have a spacer on the top of the strut and one under the strut, if you zoom in to the pic you can see the black Rough Country spacer under the strut, 2.5” kit


I see it, You should be good as long as you have space between not touching.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Geez, the stuff I do! Just sent to my tech guy at 4wheelparts and he said looks good just keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn’t start rubbing. Looks good, go to sleep lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
2 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

Geez, the stuff I do! Just sent to my tech guy at 4wheelparts and he said looks good just keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn’t start rubbing. Looks good, go to sleep lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks brother! Greatly appreciated!

Posted
Thanks brother! Greatly appreciated!

Very welcome, be safe


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Got me all fired up, moved a bunch of crap out of the way, shuffled cars and pulled it in the garage just to be sure, side shot of the clearance on each side sitting only on the minor slope of the garage, pictures are looking out towards the face of the wheels, not sure why they uploaded sideways

 

 

1B6A2AF7-1260-4A90-AFA7-B29B45051436.jpeg

2F76884A-4E6A-4B8E-BD31-A50E36496FDA.jpeg

Posted
Got me all fired up, moved a bunch of crap out of the way, shuffled cars and pulled it in the garage just to be sure, side shot of the clearance on each side sitting only on the minor slope of the garage, pictures are looking out towards the face of the wheels, not sure why they uploaded sideways
 
 
1B6A2AF7-1260-4A90-AFA7-B29B45051436.thumb.jpeg.45a51dbce4a988b6993627dc4033c564.jpeg
2F76884A-4E6A-4B8E-BD31-A50E36496FDA.thumb.jpeg.9ccc09eaa07abc478689b1b581a0a55f.jpeg

You’re good, go get some rest, God Bless


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted
fyi the front axle still spin even if your not in 4x4... so if the cv touch even driving in 2x4 will be bad


Hope everyone got that!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
On 6/19/2018 at 10:19 AM, mrskiff said:

Liking the z71 18s7b4727f16c5a76f69f0c9b8c9d6707bb.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

beautiful color.  Double cab FTW!!

  • Like 1
Posted

Put a 3/4" spacer in front to raise it a little. I'm not sure what amount that in turn raises the front. Tires are Nitto Radial Grappler 33x1250x22

 

To correct the madneride I had the shop 'relearn' the sensors to the calibration was correct, but I think I might add a washer to each sensor for some extra cushion.

 

 

 

y4m7xd1n7bVP2vZobzbqCwhcre6EYpSYpSX7p6S7

 

y4m7iycp9CgucRguvDb6YIZAZdOSbWGd2PJghViv

 

The measurements currently from ground to start of fender:

 

Front =  38"

 

y4mTANBS2A7_OkAX0V18TjPlBzyZU21SURHqTQ7X

 

Rear = 40"

 

y4mlRUZMLTbnzha2DVt2gyexhljSZ69OqqAo_YAf

 

They do rub a hair on full lock, but is kind of expected. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 6/18/2018 at 8:21 PM, Aaron1085 said:

 

Clockwise or counter?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

I believe it was counter clockwise, but best to line it up on the wall before and after.

Posted
On 6/22/2018 at 8:14 AM, FREEZE451 said:

Put a 3/4" spacer in front to raise it a little. I'm not sure what amount that in turn raises the front. Tires are Nitto Radial Grappler 33x1250x22

 

To correct the madneride I had the shop 'relearn' the sensors to the calibration was correct, but I think I might add a washer to each sensor for some extra cushion.

 

 

 

y4m7xd1n7bVP2vZobzbqCwhcre6EYpSYpSX7p6S7

 

y4m7iycp9CgucRguvDb6YIZAZdOSbWGd2PJghViv

 

The measurements currently from ground to start of fender:

 

Front =  38"

 

y4mTANBS2A7_OkAX0V18TjPlBzyZU21SURHqTQ7X

 

Rear = 40"

 

y4mlRUZMLTbnzha2DVt2gyexhljSZ69OqqAo_YAf

 

They do rub a hair on full lock, but is kind of expected. 

Thats 1.5" lift.  2:1 ratio

Posted
14 hours ago, Nasty said:

Thats 1.5" lift.  2:1 ratio

Ah! 

 

Well that's good to know. I was wondering that ratio was actually, so appreciate it! Much better to say to people than; "I'm not sure actually, there's just a small space in there to lift it a little."

Posted
22 hours ago, EDL said:

Are you guys that are adding the 2" to 2.5" leveling kits also adding a diff drop?

I didn't with a 2" and I've never heard of anyone that has either. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 641 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...