Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I got my new BFG KM2's on today now if feel like im in a truck again.

I have to ask, what size are those BFG's... They fit nicely in them wheel wells. :thumbs:

Posted

has anyone put the RC 2.5 front/2" rear leveling kit on one of the 14s with the aluminum lower control arms?

 

looks like they use the same front lower strut extension as their 2" kit which has the option of steel of aluminum then just add a .5" upper spacer.

so why would it make a difference on the 2" level but not the 2.5"

Posted

 

how far do those stick out? I'm looking to upgrade my rims this summer and am considering this size and offset. Still not sure what I want to do though. IF you could post a pic with how far they stick out it would help me greatly!

post-135785-141694133521_thumb.jpg

 

Quick shot of the rear. It sticks out just slightly.

post-135785-141694133521_thumb.jpg

post-135785-141694133521_thumb.jpg

post-135785-141694133521_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

So i just realized that my Z71 2014 Sierra has rancho front and rear shocks. I plan to either put Rancho RS7000MTs on the front or more preferably Bilstein 5100 adjustable ride height for a 2.5" front lift, mixing shocks like that wouldn't hurt anything would it? My brother could probably use my front shocks. I've got to call or email Bilstein to see when the 5100s will be available for the 2014+ sierra/silverado. Hopefully not too long, not sure if 2" would give me the clearance i want for 33x12.5x20s. Though truthfully the diameter of the tire isn't what i'm worried about it's the width. I'd much prefer 295x55xR20 but toyo doesn't currently offer the RTs in that. Though by the time i switch tires they very well could.

 

Anyone used the Pro-Comp 2.5" front leveling shocks?

 

Edited by 5RWill
Posted

has anyone put the RC 2.5 front/2" rear leveling kit on one of the 14s with the aluminum lower control arms?

 

looks like they use the same front lower strut extension as their 2" kit which has the option of steel of aluminum then just add a .5" upper spacer.

so why would it make a difference on the 2" level but not the 2.5"

on the 2" kits they ask you which control arm to send you the correct bolts. On the 2.5" they send both that's why they don't ask you.
Posted (edited)

 

Same concept as i posted above with the procomp and just like the Bilstein 5100s ride height adjustable. Not sure if a preload kit is what i'm after either. Still digging, i mean all three of these shocks use a pre-load coil over design just as if you were to put a spacer atop or under the coil on the factory strut, i guess an aftermarket shock can be designed not to bottom out when hitting the maximum amount of travel on the spring? Either way it still seems to throw the geometry of the truck off. I would think it does less stress than putting extensions under the struts though.

 

Getting to the point where i'm just going to start saving for ICON or FOX and be done with it.

 

I have another question though ICON or FOX are considered the best way to level/raise a truck, wouldn't using a big coilover shock like those equally throw the geometry of the truck off? I mean i guess you'd be grabbing some new UCAs anyway but what about the CV joints? Ball joints idk that i consider to be that large of a deal, if you ride through rough terrain they're going to get replaced regardless down the road.

 

 

http://www.bilsteinus.com/fileadmin/user_upload/user_upload_us/pdfs/Bil_LevShks_WebArticle.pdf

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PG1GynQEAPc

 

Edited by 5RWill
Posted

I put on a 2.5in Rough Country Leveling Kit on my 14 Silverado with 2in blocks in the rear. I have a vibration at around 30 mph and it is really bad around 70 mph when I am on the gas. I am wondering if this is from the leveling kit or just a problem with Silverados. It seems on another thread that a lot of people are having this problem on their trucks without any leveling or lift kits and they can't seem to find a fix. Any ideas?

Posted

I put on a 2.5in Rough Country Leveling Kit on my 14 Silverado with 2in blocks in the rear. I have a vibration at around 30 mph and it is really bad around 70 mph when I am on the gas. I am wondering if this is from the leveling kit or just a problem with Silverados. It seems on another thread that a lot of people are having this problem on their trucks without any leveling or lift kits and they can't seem to find a fix. Any ideas?

First did your truck do this before the lift? And did you have your alignment after it was leveled? And did you change tires with the leveling kit?

Posted

I put lift on rather quick so I am not too sure if there was a problem before. I did have it aligned and was planning on new wheels and tires but have not put them on yet.

Posted

I put lift on rather quick so I am not too sure if there was a problem before. I did have it aligned and was planning on new wheels and tires but have not put them on yet.

When I first got my 14 Silverado I was torn between lowering or lifting, as I have always leveled my trucks in the past. On viewing some postings about lowering and issues such as yours with lowering I would think raising the truck could caused by the same issue, but so far I have not read much in the lifting threads about this... The problem could lie in the change of angle of the drive shaft. I have read that some that install lowering shackles have to "shim" they axles to compensate for the angle change especially in the more drastic change from stock height. This would be the first in a gentle 2" level but I think the 2" block is more than what the kit provided in the first place, am I correct?.

Posted

The kit provided a 2in block which gives it 1in over stock to level the back with the front. Do you think putting stock blocks back on would help? I was going to swap them out but after reading about others have the same issue with no lifts has me thinking it's not the lift

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 439 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...