Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

That is one of the the 2 clean air intakes correct?

 

That's what I understood. And the guy in the video said "we still don't know how to address the passenger side line."

Posted

 

That's what I understood. And the guy in the video said "we still don't know how to address the passenger side line."

 

Correct me if I am wrong but it was my understanding that the majority of the oil/water/gas contamination comes through the crankcase vent where this catch can is placed in line.

Posted (edited)

 

Correct me if I am wrong but it was my understanding that the majority of the oil/water/gas contamination comes through the crankcase vent where this catch can is placed in line.

I'm not correcting anyone I know as much about engines as I do brain surgery haha.

 

I understand what you're saying but if that's the case, why even address the air intake line then at all? And if you do have to address it, the guy in the video is saying they've only addressed the driver side line and do not yet know how to address the passenger side line. My understanding is the lines going to the intake are supposed to be "clean air" but it's not 100%. The catch can is catching the oil but they're trying to ensure it's nothing but clean air going back into the intake by bypassing the supposed clean air from the engine downstream of the baffles.

 

But what about the passenger side?

 

Also what is with the replacement oil cap? Is that just a place to hook the air line to and the oil fill hole is still completely sealed off?

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
  • Like 1
Posted

Ordered the RX myself... Mike is a nice guy took the order over the phone. I saw the youtube you are talking about... will have to see how everything hooks up with the Airaid intake and the catch can...

Posted

Ordered the RX myself... Mike is a nice guy took the order over the phone. I saw the youtube you are talking about... will have to see how everything hooks up with the Airaid intake and the catch can...

 

Same here. I should have mine Tuesday with the clean air separator.

Posted

Don't have a quoted delivery date yet but intake is Tue/Wed... kind of need both to get started.

Posted

Quite shocked with $350 for complete package. Spoke to the fella who did the youtube install he told me the can alone is 95% effective--I may go this route. I'd like to know if the can has some type of media inside or is it empty?

Posted

I thought they had a cross section diagram ont he website but can't find it after they rehosted... they do have a pretty good explanation of the checkvalve operation int he install instructions. I would guess that there is some type of "media" inside that gets the oil vapor to coalesce and that hte tube is lower than the clean air output... call and ask, they are really friendly and seem eager to explain the the process and necessity for these filters.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I got my RexXtreme catch can installed this weekend and thought I would share just a couple pics. The install was super easy especially with the video RevX has on YouTube.

 

Here is a good shot of the hose you remove and replace with the supplied lines in the kit.

20140705_163103.jpg

 

Here are the lines connected. They don't supply hose clamps and you might not need them as tight as everything fits together but I knew I would sleep better if they were 100% securely fastened so I added some SS hose clamps to all connections.

 

20140705_165133.jpg

 

You can see the brake booster bolt I mounted the catch can to in this pic.

 

20140705_163854.jpg

 

Once the vent lines were connected to the motor I went ahead and put the air box/intake back on before I connected to the catch can. That way I could see exactly how to run the lines for the cleanest/clearest install. Then just cut the lines to length and connect to the can. Center inlet on the can comes from the intake valley and the outer inlet into the can goes to the the throttle body.

 

20140705_165938.jpg

 

All done....time for a beer!

(I am pointing to the throttle body inlet hose in this pic....just an FYI)

 

20140705_171031.jpg

Edited by Newm
  • Like 1
Posted

Great job! Got mine installed this weekend, too. Note: Your's is a 6.2L. The hose for the 5.3L runs from the valley to the driver's side of the intake about halfway back.

Posted

Great job! Got mine installed this weekend, too. Note: Your's is a 6.2L. The hose for the 5.3L runs from the valley to the driver's side of the intake about halfway back.

 

Thanks. Good catch, I forgot to mention that mine is a 6.2.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

For those who have installed catch cans or plan to...please keep up posted on how much oil you catch (in x amount of miles too).

 

Thanks!

  • Like 1
Posted

For those who have installed catch cans or plan to...please keep up posted on how much oil you catch (in x amount of miles too).

 

Thanks!

I most definitely will. Only have 400 miles since the install and it's killing me not to check. I will drain out after a couple thousand probably. I will say the intake was already completely coated in oil/crud with 3800 miles at the time of install.

Posted

I most definitely will. Only have 400 miles since the install and it's killing me not to check. I will drain out after a couple thousand probably. I will say the intake was already completely coated in oil/crud with 3800 miles at the time of install.

 

Why not check now? I would think you would want to check right around now to see what happens within the first 500 miles. If nothing is there then you know you can go a lot longer before the next check. But how do you know it's not 75% full now?

Posted (edited)

 

Why not check now? I would think you would want to check right around now to see what happens within the first 500 miles. If nothing is there then you know you can go a lot longer before the next check. But how do you know it's not 75% full now?

 

I see your point. I am just going off of what RX has said and other peoples experience with catch cans. I am not 100% sure but I think RX instructions stated to check around 1K-2K miles first (I could be wrong going off my middle aged memory)to get a base line then might be able to extend drain intervals closer to 5-10K miles. I might get a wild hair and check it here soon. I think I am right at 500-550 miles since install.

Edited by Newm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,530 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.
    • Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...