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Oil catch can?

C25A1guy

By C25A1guy
in Engines & Drivetrain

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14'SilveradoLT Enthusiast

14'SilveradoLT

Posted
Posted

 

I understand your point, but I'd argue cleaning them MORE often would prevent the problem you describe. In other words cleaning a small amount of deposits once a year is better than waiting 50,000 miles and forcing way more "crud" through the system at one time. BG will actually warranty your engine if you do the yearly cleaning service with their product.....they stand behind it.

 

I agree, that was originally going to be in that post.

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ToesonTheNose
ToesonTheNose

Here at RX now they are doing a video install on my truck

Jay700
Jay700

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

fondupot
fondupot

So, I added a second output fitting to my Original RX catch can. I had been emailing with the RevExtreme folks about the benefits of a dual output can, and they were gracious enough to send me the par

Posted Images

Crf450r420 Enthusiast

Crf450r420

Posted
Posted

Can everyone list the part number of the cans you know work well for our trucks. I'd like to see I can find a screaming deal from one of our part venders. Maybe I can help others on the board get a deal also, but first I have to find a quality one I can get some savings on.

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted (edited)

Can everyone list the part number of the cans you know work well for our trucks. I'd like to see I can find a screaming deal from one of our part venders. Maybe I can help others on the board get a deal also, but first I have to find a quality one I can get some savings on.

 

This is the RX can for the Silverado/Sierra: http://www.revxtreme.com/chevrolet/rx-catch-can-single-check-valve

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
topshelfproducts Enthusiast

topshelfproducts

Posted
Posted

So reading on the ecotec motors and came across this...

PCV-integrated rocker covers: new domed rocker covers house a patent-pending integrated positive crankcase ventilation system that enhances oil life, reduces oil consumption and reduces exhaust emissions. The domed sections of the covers contain baffles that separate oil and air from the crankcase gases, with about three times the oil/air separation capability of previous engines.

Read more: http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/gm-engines/l83/#ixzz3E48huTOq

 

Do these baffles need to be changed or cleaned at any point you suppose? Or is this maybe the reason more oil is getting to the catch cans than previous? Just food for thought.

bladz1454 Enthusiast

bladz1454

Posted
Posted

... did a little research - I see these things ranging from $40 to $400?! I see most of you got the RX one for like $200, does it matter which brand you go with?

 

Also, I know this might be stupid but since there are two hoses (driver and passenger) going from the intake into the manifold - which side do these cans connect into?

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted (edited)

... did a little research - I see these things ranging from $40 to $400?! I see most of you got the RX one for like $200, does it matter which brand you go with?

 

Also, I know this might be stupid but since there are two hoses (driver and passenger) going from the intake into the manifold - which side do these cans connect into?

 

Brand definitely matters. There are cheap ones that don't do anything at all and expensive ones that are probably overkill. RX seems to be the most recommended brand for GM engines. I will eventually go with the RX can.

 

This video will answer your second question as well as address the poster's above you question regarding the baffles (the mechanic in the video talks about how the baffles help but only cut the oil blowby down to about 30% of what it used to be):

 

 

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
  • Like 2
gone_fishing Enthusiast

gone_fishing

Posted
Posted

Also, I know this might be stupid but since there are two hoses (driver and passenger) going from the intake into the manifold - which side do these cans connect into?

 

The can doesn't go to either one of those hoses. It connects to a fitting that vents the vapors from the valley area of the engine. Stock with no catch can, there is a hose that transfers these vapors directly into the intake manifold to be burned off during combustion. The catch can goes between this fitting and the intake manifold. The PCV rocker covers are vented into the intake tube (before the TB).

 

This is the vent fitting on the 5.3 (located under the TB) and the hose runs along the driver side where it enters the intake manifold about half way back.

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  • Like 4
bladz1454 Enthusiast

bladz1454

Posted
Posted

 

The can doesn't go to either one of those hoses. It connects to a fitting that vents the vapors from the valley area of the engine. Stock with no catch can, there is a hose that transfers these vapors directly into the intake manifold to be burned off during combustion. The catch can goes between this fitting and the intake manifold. The PCV rocker covers are vented into the intake tube (before the TB).

 

This is the vent fitting on the 5.3 (located under the TB) and the hose runs along the driver side where it enters the intake manifold about half way back.

 

Wow, I just watched the video and realized what you just said. The actual catch doesn't touch those two lines on my intake, but there was a separator he installed that does utilize the driver's side hose I was referring to earlier. Guess I know where the PCV valve is now!

 

Thanks for the pictures too!

topshelfproducts Enthusiast

topshelfproducts

Posted
Posted

Even on the cheap cans most guys just put some steel wool inside to catch the vapor better, seems to work from my subaru build days. Thanks for the video above!

14'SilveradoLT Enthusiast

14'SilveradoLT

Posted
Posted

Just FYI, the new UPR can with the Updated diffuser was tested by a few Ecoboost owners and tested extremely well vs the RX. Don't shy away from the UPR with the better diffuser if you find a good deal on it.

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

 

Correct...both clean side inlets were dry so IMO you are correct, the clean side separator isn't as critical to install. I will probably check the inlets in another thousand or so miles to see if anything has changed.

Think about the PCV system, its a loop.

 

The clean side is feeding air into the passenger bank (thinking of my 6.0l) to replace that being vacuumed out on the driver's side through the PCV tube leading to the intake (the dirty side). The only reason "dirty" air should backflow into the clean side is if so much blowby is present that it overcomes the vacuum created by the intake or if you experience a loss in PCV vacuum.

 

Most of us would never need to touch the clean side.

Newm Enthusiast

Newm

Posted
Posted

Think about the PCV system, its a loop.

The clean side is feeding air into the passenger bank (thinking of my 6.0l) to replace that being vacuumed out on the driver's side through the PCV tube leading to the intake (the dirty side). The only reason "dirty" air should backflow into the clean side is if so much blowby is present that it overcomes the vacuum created by the intake or if you experience a loss in PCV vacuum.

Most of us would never need to touch the clean side.

Agreed.

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