Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Installing the can void any warranty?

 

Nope. I will be installing a prototype catch can soon built specifically for our engine compartments. Will do a detailed write up and review.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Ordered an RX can and should get it at the end of next week. I was looking at trying to do a group buy on them, but couldn't save people much money on them.

Posted

Drained tonight

 

698bff23699de64aeed6c7a8d0c9ea06.jpg

 

 

Ryan

Is that the Mike Norris can? Mounted by the Alternator?

Posted

Drained my RX catch can last night after changing the oil. I don't remember exactly when I drained it last. I'm guessing about 2,000 miles on this interval. A lot of water in this drain (I'm guessing due to cooler outside temps). During the winter I think I'll try to drain it at least once a month.

post-124685-0-55065800-1415373392_thumb.jpg

post-124685-0-55065800-1415373392_thumb.jpg

post-124685-0-55065800-1415373392_thumb.jpg

post-124685-0-55065800-1415373392_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

 

So they still haven't addressed how to handle the passenger side line? This is only a partial fix.

The clean side separator only comes in to play under WOP or close to it.( Based on what RX told me.) CC is most of the fix. The clean side can wait tell budget allows.

 

When talking to RX about a catch can, we got on the subject of DI motors and the intake valve/guides coating issues. Big issue on Vett boards. Some have torn down engines at 6000 miles.

 

RX strongly recommended a CC for the new DIs to try and keep the junk off the intake valves. Just saying.

Edited by STex
Posted

Placed my order for the RX can just now, I have ran them on my previous vehicles and been happy with the results. Like say the new DI motors are a dry flow intake system so there is no way to clean the backside of the valves unless you run something thru the intake throttle body direction.

Posted

I guess the video is so much different than on the 5.3L motors. The connections on the throttle body are in the same spot, however in the video on the 6.2L there is simply one small line that needs to be disconnected. On the 5.3L there is a line going from the top connection at the throttle body to all the way back behind the motor where I can't see. The below throttle body connection goes about half way back on drivers side to the valve cover.

 

Wondering where these lines are capped, t'd, or removed all together?

Posted

Or better yet, can someone simply confirm that the connection above the throttle body remains, and that the connection below the throttle body to half way back on the motor is removed. The catch can is then ran in place of that lower hose, with each hose coming off the catch can replacing where they connect on the factory line?

 

So no t necessary and no capping off of anything, correct? I am thrown off as the kit included multiple t's and caps to cap off, but I assume that would be if I bought the other parts other than just the catch can?

Posted

Or better yet, can someone simply confirm that the connection above the throttle body remains, and that the connection below the throttle body to half way back on the motor is removed. The catch can is then ran in place of that lower hose, with each hose coming off the catch can replacing where they connect on the factory line?

 

So no t necessary and no capping off of anything, correct? I am thrown off as the kit included multiple t's and caps to cap off, but I assume that would be if I bought the other parts other than just the catch can?

Yup, that's the line to remove, below TB going to the driver side of above the valve covers.
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 463 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...