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Posted

I plan to test if the computer will have an issue with that, but I am positive and good emission tester would not let it go. You could however just connect it back for the test and go back to vented after if the computer doesn't code.

Posted (edited)

I plan to test if the computer will have an issue with that, but I am positive and good emission tester would not let it go. You could however just connect it back for the test and go back to vented after if the computer doesn't code.

As long as you cap the manifold port, it shouldn't throw a CEL.

 

But you would need two cans or Tee the "clean" and dirty sidesbtogether since you will no longer have a vacuum pulling through the engine.

 

The only other consideration is that vacuum is sometimes used to help the rings seal...not sure there is enough vacuum through the engine with simple manifold pressures, but...

Edited by sdeeter19555
Posted

There would be some vacuum lost during cruise that may have some impact, but most vacuum pulled on the crank case is when you get off the throttle. I doubt there is enough to make a big impact this is only done for emissions. You need a good vacuum to provide help with ring seal.

Posted (edited)

Im working with two companies on making custom cans for our trucks right now. Not like recreate the wheel custom internals, just plug and play mounting and hardware custom for us truck fellas they seem to forget about :)

 

Going to stick with the no vent option for my first can since that seems to be the safest.

Edited by bladz1454
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Its just the more i read/talk to people, i feel like there's such a big divide.

 

Your best bet is to answer the question yourself. Take a few minutes and pull off your TB. Stick your hand in the intake and see how much oil there is. Decide if you want to continue putting that much oil in the intake or not....

 

You can actually install a catch can in about 1/2 the time it would take you to do that. If you keep it simple (forget about vents, re-routing a bunch of stuff, etc) and simply install one can in the line between the valley and intake, there is no possible downside and you'll catch about 95% of the oil.

  • Like 2
Posted

 

Your best bet is to answer the question yourself. Take a few minutes and pull off your TB. Stick your hand in the intake and see how much oil there is. Decide if you want to continue putting that much oil in the intake or not....

 

You can actually install a catch can in about 1/2 the time it would take you to do that. If you keep it simple (forget about vents, re-routing a bunch of stuff, etc) and simply install one can in the line between the valley and intake, there is no possible downside and you'll catch about 95% of the oil.

Im definitely going to put one on now. I'm having a company make one right actually :). Just to be sure though, my 5.3 engine has the pcv running from the side valley to the front of the motor. The line shows an arrow pointing up the valley to the firewall. So this means that the line leaving the front of the motor would enter the catch can and the line leaving the catch can would go up the valley and into the drivers side of the engine right?

Posted (edited)

Im definitely going to put one on now. I'm having a company make one right actually :). Just to be sure though, my 5.3 engine has the pcv running from the side valley to the front of the motor. The line shows an arrow pointing up the valley to the firewall. So this means that the line leaving the front of the motor would enter the catch can and the line leaving the catch can would go up the valley and into the drivers side of the engine right?

 

The connection under the throttle body that goes into the valley of the motor is where the crankcase gases are collected. This connection appears to be in the same location on the 5.3 and 6.2. The factory vent hose is pretty short on the 6.2 and goes from under the TB to just above it to a fitting on the intake manifold. On the 5.3 the factory vent hose starts in the same location but goes back along the valve cover to a fitting on the intake manifold. When installing the RX catch can, a hose goes from this connection under the TB to the center port on the can.

 

The second hose goes from the intake manifold to the catch can (off center connection on the RX catch can with the check valve). This is the suction side of the setup. The intake manifold creates vacuum that pulls off the gases from the crank case and through the catch can. The catch can is basically acting as an inline filter between the crankcase and intake manifold.

Edited by gone_fishing
Posted

Hey guys, can anyone confirm that all motors (4.3, 5.3, and 6.2) all have the same diameter for their PCV lines - 5/8"? Just trying to get exact specs to this catch can fabricator.

 

thanks!

Posted

Hey guys, can anyone confirm that all motors (4.3, 5.3, and 6.2) all have the same diameter for their PCV lines - 5/8"? Just trying to get exact specs to this catch can fabricator.

 

thanks!

 

The hose that came with my RX catch can is 3/8"

Posted

Installed the RX Catch Can today. Very nice product that appears to be well made. Comes with a good length of high quality 3/8 inch vent hose. Followed the RX video and as mentioned by gone_fishing, the vacuum manifold connection to the can is on the left side of the motor above the valve cover. When you disconnect the factory hose, you will see the manifold connection.

 

For what it's worth, I have 3500 miles on the truck and found very little oil behind the TB. Still feel better with the can installed.

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