Jump to content

Oil catch can?

C25A1guy

By C25A1guy
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

 

That is one of the the 2 clean air intakes correct?

 

That's what I understood. And the guy in the video said "we still don't know how to address the passenger side line."

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ToesonTheNose
ToesonTheNose

Here at RX now they are doing a video install on my truck

Jay700
Jay700

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

fondupot
fondupot

So, I added a second output fitting to my Original RX catch can. I had been emailing with the RevExtreme folks about the benefits of a dual output can, and they were gracious enough to send me the par

Posted Images

Newm Enthusiast

Newm

Posted
Posted

 

That's what I understood. And the guy in the video said "we still don't know how to address the passenger side line."

 

Correct me if I am wrong but it was my understanding that the majority of the oil/water/gas contamination comes through the crankcase vent where this catch can is placed in line.

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Correct me if I am wrong but it was my understanding that the majority of the oil/water/gas contamination comes through the crankcase vent where this catch can is placed in line.

I'm not correcting anyone I know as much about engines as I do brain surgery haha.

 

I understand what you're saying but if that's the case, why even address the air intake line then at all? And if you do have to address it, the guy in the video is saying they've only addressed the driver side line and do not yet know how to address the passenger side line. My understanding is the lines going to the intake are supposed to be "clean air" but it's not 100%. The catch can is catching the oil but they're trying to ensure it's nothing but clean air going back into the intake by bypassing the supposed clean air from the engine downstream of the baffles.

 

But what about the passenger side?

 

Also what is with the replacement oil cap? Is that just a place to hook the air line to and the oil fill hole is still completely sealed off?

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
  • Like 1
chuckwi11 Enthusiast

chuckwi11

Posted
Posted

Ordered the RX myself... Mike is a nice guy took the order over the phone. I saw the youtube you are talking about... will have to see how everything hooks up with the Airaid intake and the catch can...

bigsapper Enthusiast

bigsapper

Posted
Posted

Ordered the RX myself... Mike is a nice guy took the order over the phone. I saw the youtube you are talking about... will have to see how everything hooks up with the Airaid intake and the catch can...

 

Same here. I should have mine Tuesday with the clean air separator.

chuckwi11 Enthusiast

chuckwi11

Posted
Posted

Don't have a quoted delivery date yet but intake is Tue/Wed... kind of need both to get started.

GTD Enthusiast

GTD

Posted
Posted

Quite shocked with $350 for complete package. Spoke to the fella who did the youtube install he told me the can alone is 95% effective--I may go this route. I'd like to know if the can has some type of media inside or is it empty?

chuckwi11 Enthusiast

chuckwi11

Posted
Posted

I thought they had a cross section diagram ont he website but can't find it after they rehosted... they do have a pretty good explanation of the checkvalve operation int he install instructions. I would guess that there is some type of "media" inside that gets the oil vapor to coalesce and that hte tube is lower than the clean air output... call and ask, they are really friendly and seem eager to explain the the process and necessity for these filters.

  • 2 weeks later...
Newm Enthusiast

Newm

Posted
Posted (edited)

I got my RexXtreme catch can installed this weekend and thought I would share just a couple pics. The install was super easy especially with the video RevX has on YouTube.

 

Here is a good shot of the hose you remove and replace with the supplied lines in the kit.

20140705_163103.jpg

 

Here are the lines connected. They don't supply hose clamps and you might not need them as tight as everything fits together but I knew I would sleep better if they were 100% securely fastened so I added some SS hose clamps to all connections.

 

20140705_165133.jpg

 

You can see the brake booster bolt I mounted the catch can to in this pic.

 

20140705_163854.jpg

 

Once the vent lines were connected to the motor I went ahead and put the air box/intake back on before I connected to the catch can. That way I could see exactly how to run the lines for the cleanest/clearest install. Then just cut the lines to length and connect to the can. Center inlet on the can comes from the intake valley and the outer inlet into the can goes to the the throttle body.

 

20140705_165938.jpg

 

All done....time for a beer!

(I am pointing to the throttle body inlet hose in this pic....just an FYI)

 

20140705_171031.jpg

Edited by Newm
  • Like 1
bigsapper Enthusiast

bigsapper

Posted
Posted

Great job! Got mine installed this weekend, too. Note: Your's is a 6.2L. The hose for the 5.3L runs from the valley to the driver's side of the intake about halfway back.

Newm Enthusiast

Newm

Posted
Posted

Great job! Got mine installed this weekend, too. Note: Your's is a 6.2L. The hose for the 5.3L runs from the valley to the driver's side of the intake about halfway back.

 

Thanks. Good catch, I forgot to mention that mine is a 6.2.

  • 2 weeks later...
gone_fishing Enthusiast

gone_fishing

Posted
Posted

For those who have installed catch cans or plan to...please keep up posted on how much oil you catch (in x amount of miles too).

 

Thanks!

  • Like 1
Newm Enthusiast

Newm

Posted
Posted

For those who have installed catch cans or plan to...please keep up posted on how much oil you catch (in x amount of miles too).

 

Thanks!

I most definitely will. Only have 400 miles since the install and it's killing me not to check. I will drain out after a couple thousand probably. I will say the intake was already completely coated in oil/crud with 3800 miles at the time of install.

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

I most definitely will. Only have 400 miles since the install and it's killing me not to check. I will drain out after a couple thousand probably. I will say the intake was already completely coated in oil/crud with 3800 miles at the time of install.

 

Why not check now? I would think you would want to check right around now to see what happens within the first 500 miles. If nothing is there then you know you can go a lot longer before the next check. But how do you know it's not 75% full now?

Newm Enthusiast

Newm

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Why not check now? I would think you would want to check right around now to see what happens within the first 500 miles. If nothing is there then you know you can go a lot longer before the next check. But how do you know it's not 75% full now?

 

I see your point. I am just going off of what RX has said and other peoples experience with catch cans. I am not 100% sure but I think RX instructions stated to check around 1K-2K miles first (I could be wrong going off my middle aged memory)to get a base line then might be able to extend drain intervals closer to 5-10K miles. I might get a wild hair and check it here soon. I think I am right at 500-550 miles since install.

Edited by Newm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BDS my HD
      Brand new to this forum. Questions about re-gearing my 26’ HD

      By BDS my HD · Posted

      Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • linc45bn
      2013 2500HD 6.0L intermittent no crank no start

      By linc45bn · Posted

      I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Oil Consumption

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Peoplemvr
      GMC 1500 Illuminated Front Grill Emblem REPLACEMENT.

      By Peoplemvr · Posted

      Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...