Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I rerouted the lines on my catch can and moved it from the brake booster to the spare battery tray to get rid of the buzzing in the pedals and voila - gone! Pretty happy with how it turned out. Was worried about lines all over the engine bay with the long runs over to the tray but found out a good way to route them and think it turned out pretty clean. Pics below:

 

04aaf1366b544da780fd9fd2d224f9fd.jpg

 

7cc929a22358dd96a9a9a601b38cfff2.jpg

 

963e9e4385d98f6845f054c148141b62.jpg

 

bd0f51f93ebe50e13fa335a4b8faf06b.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

Looks like they put the washer fluid fill neck right in your way on the new ones.

 

In my opinion, longer lines are to your benefit - the longer the run, the more the mixture cools off and condenses and finds itself in the catch can.

 

Just took a 2+ hour drive today - the catch can hoses & the can itself (located on core support in front of battery tray) were barely above ambient, while the engine and everything close to it was blazing hot.

Posted (edited)

Looks like they put the washer fluid fill neck right in your way on the new ones.

 

In my opinion, longer lines are to your benefit - the longer the run, the more the mixture cools off and condenses and finds itself in the catch can.

 

Just took a 2+ hour drive today - the catch can hoses & the can itself (located on core support in front of battery tray) were barely above ambient, while the engine and everything close to it was blazing hot.

 

Good to hear, yeah I think this will work out in the long run too. When I got home from work yesterday and was going to tackle the project, the catch can was pretty hot (mounted to the brake booster) along with all the lines which I expected since its in the engine bay in FL where its 90 deg already. With the new location in the battery tray it should be cooler as well as be a whole lot easier to check and dump the oil.

Edited by hotrodz37
Posted

I rerouted the lines on my catch can and moved it from the brake booster to the spare battery tray to get rid of the buzzing in the pedals and voila - gone! Pretty happy with how it turned out. Was worried about lines all over the engine bay with the long runs over to the tray but found out a good way to route them and think it turned out pretty clean. Pics below:

 

04aaf1366b544da780fd9fd2d224f9fd.jpg

 

7cc929a22358dd96a9a9a601b38cfff2.jpg

 

963e9e4385d98f6845f054c148141b62.jpg

 

bd0f51f93ebe50e13fa335a4b8faf06b.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks good!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

About to order an elite can, should I get the exit line check valve?

Posted

About to order an elite can, should I get the exit line check valve?

No you only need it if you have a turbo.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

No, not needed on a stock set-up

Thanks, payment on the way..

 

No you only need it if you have a turbo.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks.. i wish some boost was in the plans lol

  • Like 1
Posted

I know it's pretty well known. But I finally got around to editing my catch can install video. Hopefully helps out a few people.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Just drained my again at 1100KM since last drain . Its getting nicer out now so not as much water building up in it.

 

Catch Can

 

Posted

Same here - I haven't cleaned mine in over a month (don't drive much), and the moisture that was in the can has evaporated off. Level hasn't changed in a while now.

 

This could also be because I'm a quart low on oil now. Time to change the oil today anyway.

Posted

So I wonder if overall the catch cans will collect less in the new ecotec3 engines?

 

"PCV-integrated rocker covers: new domed rocker covers house a patent-pending integrated positive crankcase ventilation system that enhances oil life, reduces oil consumption and reduces exhaust emissions. The domed sections of the covers contain baffles that separate oil and air from the crankcase gases, with about three times the oil/air separation capability of previous engines."

 

Read more:

http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/gm-engines/l83/

 

Still keeping my can installed but hopefully this new engineering will prove to be true and prevent less oil from getting to the intake for all those who don't want to deal with the maintenance of emptying a can.

Posted

So I wonder if overall the catch cans will collect less in the new ecotec3 engines?

 

"PCV-integrated rocker covers: new domed rocker covers house a patent-pending integrated positive crankcase ventilation system that enhances oil life, reduces oil consumption and reduces exhaust emissions. The domed sections of the covers contain baffles that separate oil and air from the crankcase gases, with about three times the oil/air separation capability of previous engines."

 

Read more:

http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/gm-engines/l83/

 

Still keeping my can installed but hopefully this new engineering will prove to be true and prevent less oil from getting to the intake for all those who don't want to deal with the maintenance of emptying a can.

 

It may help a little technically because the baffle design is doing "something" but there was guy that posted pictures of his valves after removing the intake manifold and they were quite dirty with build-up. So I'd argue the improvement isn't much to feel good about. Probably designed to help the engine last 100,000 miles......

Posted (edited)

Elite Engineering can installed, black with AN fittings. Mine came with a black mounting bracket as well. I'm adding braided hose sleeve to the lines next week.

post-204-0-90922100-1430181346_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-37149800-1430181374_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-64703800-1430181375_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-90922100-1430181346_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-37149800-1430181374_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-64703800-1430181375_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-90922100-1430181346_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-37149800-1430181374_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-64703800-1430181375_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-90922100-1430181346_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-37149800-1430181374_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-64703800-1430181375_thumb.jpg

Edited by RobZ71LM7
Posted

Elite Engineering can installed, black with AN fittings. Mine came with a black mounting bracket as well. I'm adding braided hose sleeve to the lines next week.

 

Looks very nice!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,804
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    LCH14
    Newest Member
    LCH14
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,393 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'd change the fluid and start there.   198F is nothing for the 8L90.  They typically operate 180-200F stock.  
    • Looking for help!   2019 GMC Sierra 1500 - 5.3l 4x4 8l90 61k miles - truck is in Arizona, was over 110 outside on Monday when this whole situation transpired. Never had any major issues with transmission until this point:   Truck sat outside my construction office for approx 1 hour idling before I realized, ran around the job site wrapping some things up for the day and then left. Went to get food and sat in the drive through for approx 30 minutes idling. As soon as I pull out of the drive through and onto the main road, rear tires lock up and feels like transmission fell out of the truck. Shifted to park, shut the truck off and tried again, same thing happened. Was able to reverse into parking lot (truck slammed into reverse). Let the truck sit turned off for 10 minutes before trying again, but it continued to happen. Towed truck back to my house. Highest the trans temps reached was 198.   Friday, after work I start looking into the situation. Truck sat in my driveway untouched all week. Truck is now driving like normal, transmission doesn’t get over 185 degrees when trying to heat it up. Got up to 60 multiples times with no issues, no issues accelerating, only down shifted hard into first one time at 185 degrees. Does anyone have any insight? Never through a code or a check engine light. Truck has never been used to tow either. No transmission services at this point.
    • Atlas won.   I know better, but I did it anyway. I took a compressed air line with a chuck and rubber tip and jammed it in the open EGR port. The port was clear as far as I could see, and as far as I could poke with a flexible wire, but that doesn't mean it's not clogged.   Compressed air blew back at me along with a cloud of black. Oops. I didn't have the rubber tip seated in there all the way. Jammed it up in there some more and squeezed the chuck. PSI was set to 120. Poof! It blew back at me again. Third time...pfffffttssssssspffffffsssfffffff, face full of carbon, and then, kind of a thud..and the air stopped spraying back at me. It was now exiting the exhaust with a low shhhhhh sound as it flowed through the pipe. Something broke free. I pressurized the port again, and air flowed.   Made my day.   Long story short on this problem, it's fixed. Something was really blocking the EGR passages down low, and compressed air blew it apart. I don't recommend this as who knows what debris was sent where. But it's allowed me to move forward, mentally, and onto the next problems I need to get this little S-Blazer going down the road properly again.  
    • Your truck lowered, looks good. I'm happy with the stance on this. I may need the extra ground clearance given my location/situation.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...