Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Elite Engineering can installed, black with AN fittings.

I ordered the same thing yesterday. Are those the default fuel line hoses they offer with the kit? Are they sufficient for this setup or do they need to be upgraded to something stronger?

Posted

I ordered the same thing yesterday. Are those the default fuel line hoses they offer with the kit? Are they sufficient for this setup or do they need to be upgraded to something stronger?

 

I am curious about this but with the RX catch can. On their website it displays: Standard hose, black/silver braided 6-3/8", black/silver braided 8-1/2".

 

Actually am torn between the 2 brands at the moment and I don't even have my truck yet, both seem reputable. Cost wise elite seems cheaper and has a lower cost of shipping but longer shipping times than RX.

 

I've read through this thread 3 times and still I am undecided, I guess I'll wait to have my truck first.

Posted

Ordered my RX Performance catch can from Jegs 3 days ago and it just showed up. came with the catch can, hoses, hardware, and very surprisingly, the clean side separator, all for $319 to my door.

 

The separator was shown in the image but just looked like some stock RX Performance image, so, wasn't expecting to get it as well, given on the RX Performance site, that piece alone is $99 plus the main oil separator is $389. Through Jegs, i got both for $319.

 

hopefully i'll get time this weekend to install it and post some pics.

Posted

I ordered the same thing yesterday. Are those the default fuel line hoses they offer with the kit? Are they sufficient for this setup or do they need to be upgraded to something stronger?

 

They are the SAE J30R6 fuel line that came with the can. They seem fine so far, but flow is high enough you can hear the airflow through the hose with the engine running.

Posted

 

They are the SAE J30R6 fuel line that came with the can. They seem fine so far, but flow is high enough you can hear the airflow through the hose with the engine running.

From inside the cab or just with the hood open?

Posted

From inside the cab or just with the hood open?

I've only noticed hearing it a few times from outside the cab.

Posted

From inside the cab or just with the hood open?

 

Hood open you can definitely hear it. With the hood closed you can only hear it right next to the driver's headlight. I cannot hear it from the cab.

Posted (edited)

Has anybody noticed decreased fuel mileage after installing? I have had a few short trips but mine seems below normal even for that.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by hotrodz37
Posted

Has anybody noticed decreased fuel mileage after installing? I have had a few short trips but it seems below normal even for that.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2 vehicles, No

 

 

Ryan

Posted

2 vehicles, No

 

 

Ryan

Thanks for the quick reply Ryan. I usually average about 12.5 (all stop and go driving and only 4 miles to work). I don't drive too aggressively and it was down to 10.6mpg on the dic today. I drove over to a buddy's house tonight and it went up to 12mpg but seemed like it was creeping up much slower than normal. I guess I will keep driving it and see how it does.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Has anybody noticed decreased fuel mileage after installing? I have had a few short trips but mine seems below normal even for that.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

No. If anything you would see an increase because that moisture and oil is not going into your intake anymore affecting the combustion parameters so your engine is working more efficiently.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted

You shouldn't notice any mileage change one way or the other. Your just lengthening the PCV circuit - it's still breathing as designed, just a longer run, and less crap ending up in your intake.

Posted

When I originally installed my RX catch can, I didn't opt for the clean side separator they offer. After finding oil in my Volant CAI tube (http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/168584-oil-in-intake-tubeanyone-else-check-theirs/), I decided to install their clean side separator. Per Tracy at RX, I was told add a hose that basically connect the two valve cover breathers together. The clean side separator goes to one of my intake tube fittings and the other fitting is capped. RX instructions: https://www.rxperformanceproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/CLEAN-SIDE-SEPARATOR-INSTALLATION-INSTRUCTIONS-FOR-ALL-GM-DIRECT-INJECTION-V8.pdf

 

 

This may be a dumb question, but what did you use to cap the other other intake fitting?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 746 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...