Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Looking for a little input. I have a 2.5 rcx level and am planning on get new wheels that come custom drilled to any offset 0 to +25. I would like to run either 305 55 r20 or 275 65 r20 tires. Is either possible without any rubbing? And if so what offset would I need? Thanks in advance for the input!

Posted

Looking for a little input. I have a 2.5 rcx level and am planning on get new wheels that come custom drilled to any offset 0 to +25. I would like to run either 305 55 r20 or 275 65 r20 tires. Is either possible without any rubbing? And if so what offset would I need? Thanks in advance for the input!

if you run the 305 you will rub with any offset that is not -. I got 305s and - 24 offset and it still rubs on a 3" level. I suggest go with the 275s. And try a negative offset so the tire is sitting more outside at full lock.

 

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

Posted

Chappy, if you ask me, it seems your true problem lies in that you don't have a driveline. It seems to be out of place. Not sure how it could vibrate.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Chappy, if you ask me, it seems your true problem lies in that you don't have a driveline. It seems to be out of place. Not sure how it could vibrate.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, I think they run alot smoother with that drive shaft actually connected! :)

  • Like 1
Posted

I was thinking about debadging my truck. Anyone have any experience doing this? I already have a 3m eraser wheel that I used on a previous vehicle.

I debadged mine and it took me about 25 minutes. I used fishing string and heat gun. Removed the sticky tape residue with Goof Off. Cuts through it like butter and won't harm your finish.

20140702 182240 Richtone(HDR)

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

I debadged mine and it took me about 25 minutes. I used fishing string and heat gun. Removed the sticky tape residue with Goof Off. Cuts through it like butter and won't harm your finish.

Mine came with the "Silverado" de-badged or never really installed at all. There were about 150 Silverado on the lot with out them. The dealership said that's how they were coming from the factory! byve8a5e.jpg

 

 

Go Army! GO ORDNANCE!!!

Edited by courts94s
  • Like 1
Posted

2ame7ery.jpgehu2y8ez.jpg4a7u6apa.jpg

 

Biggest POS I have owned. 2nd truck. Both had less than 5000 miles on them. Vibration in driveline. Buyer beware.

 

Pretty vague post. Can you go into further detail on the problems you had, how you dealt with the dealer and such?

Posted

I debadged mine and it took me about 25 minutes. I used fishing string and heat gun. Removed the sticky tape residue with Goof Off. Cuts through it like butter and won't harm your finish.

 

Looks great man. I will try and find the time this weekend to do this.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

Pretty vague post. Can you go into further detail on the problems you had, how you dealt with the dealer and such?

Search my name under "Shake and Vibration issues" under the GM-Trucks forum. All the documentation you need is there along with many others dealing with the same issue.

 

Happy reading!

Posted

I've been following that post. Glad to see that many of them have had their problems resolved in a myriad of different ways. I bet some have a combination of different problems making it even more difficult to fix. I also bet there are a lot of people with lots of miles on them by now so if it was universal we'd pretty much all know by now. Sorry everyone hasn't found their fix yet. I worked at a dealer years ago. It's nothing new. Sometimes them come off the car carrier missing things - we attributed it to "it must have been a Friday on the assembly line" syndrome. Shit happens. It really sucks when it happens to you. That's what lemon laws are for. Sometimes you can't make chicken soup out of chicken .... I mean.. a silk purse out of a sows ear. Good luck Brother. Keep at it or turn it in.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Took the two day old truck with 300km on it and put on another 6000km over the last two weeks through Wyoming/Colorado/Utah and did some very light offroading (truck is stock Z71 right now) in Moab.

 

oQDe8fPl.jpg

 

Wish I had gotten a couple more shots of the articulation in this one, the stance was opposite on the driver side with the left rear having about a half inch of clearance from the wheel well.

 

More to come, too many driveway and parking lot shots on here. :)

 

Okay, so I got around to uploading some more pictures. The full album with larger and high res images can also be found here: http://imgur.com/a/EbiNc
You can also click the thumbnails below for larger and full res images.
vkwoL7Jm.jpg 0Jz38SOm.jpg WX6hEcmm.jpg FzraCaem.jpg
YKpTdxPm.jpg 3ew0HzCm.jpg jk1A3JAm.jpg fCRpnVbm.jpg
rTjSg8pm.jpg pGpFmqam.jpg WyL1Yehm.jpg DYPfPwdm.jpg
AxIWcA7m.jpg 159ruZ5m.jpg b6Jtquam.jpg ZLaBCJlm.jpg
Qb06G4hm.jpg LRdPGP1m.jpg EFYuAPGm.jpg
Edited by YEGrolo
  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

I hit the image limit, heres the last few:

 

EjdG0Fjm.jpg yeYzh11m.jpg QkEubtKm.jpg

 

The second last one there is one of my favorites, love the LED lights.

 

Pics are from around Arches Natl park and Moab, and some from Antelope Island by Salt Lake.

Edited by YEGrolo
Posted

I hit the image limit, heres the last few:

 

 

 

The second last one there is one of my favorites, love the LED lights.

 

Pics are from around Arches Natl park and Moab, and some from Antelope Island by Salt Lake.

 

Do you have the short or regular bed? It looks like the regular bed.

Just wondering.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 2,064 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...