Jump to content

LED Front Light Bars & Pods

svtkidd23

By svtkidd23
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

KUUG Enthusiast

KUUG

Posted
Posted

 

MIne wasnt bad at all, but I used the Poison Spider mounts, maybe other mounts were different. Either way, on a box with an engine, you cant expect much. My biggest concern about the mounts for these trucks is the effect on the "triple doors seals" where the mounts sit underneath and if they would create more noise through the seals.

 

I expect to use the light all the time when driving in northern regions and logging roads for Moose and Elk etc...so I dont mind paying for the really good stuff like Rigid or BD. That being said, it's my company truck so it's also a tax deduction. ;)

 

Nice!

I spoke with a couple of the companies about the mounts and they all said there wouldn't be any problems with the seal but how much they would back it... who knows.

 

I'd love to get the rigid but I can't justify it for my use. I will be buying a smaller bar and a couple sets of duallys; but the 50" will have to be cheaper

  • Replies 1.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Jon A
Jon A

A double row works well behind the Denali grill. Here's my 30" curved Totron:                 The LED's are 1" appart and the rows of holes in the grill just happen to be 1" ap

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

The correct term is "illegal commodities broker" thank you!   I actually work for an oil company, which is similar because both businesses provide highly desired products at artificially inflated

Danthaman69
Danthaman69

Here it is.

Posted Images

jdthomas24 Enthusiast

jdthomas24

Posted
Posted

 

I was thinking about this also. Probably go with a cheaper brand though. I was worried about wind noises; anyone have any experience with the big 50"

spoke to 2 people about wind noice over the window.. one had the straight and the other a curved...... both pro-lights

 

the one with the straight said there is some wind noise but not to terrible unless its real windy.. Mike had the curved and said he really cant tell that much of a difference... personal experience i can only go off what they said. i would think that there would be some but the curved would help deflect the wind.

  • Like 1
jdthomas24 Enthusiast

jdthomas24

Posted
Posted

u9yja9ur.jpgezubydy9.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

did you think about maybe putting it behind grille? out of sight? got a big enough gap back there ti put 2 and the light block from the grille isn't noticeable. We did one last week. made brackets from aluminum channel from home depot to mount to the crossbars that slant up towards the middle of the hook.

jdthomas24 Enthusiast

jdthomas24

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Nice!

I spoke with a couple of the companies about the mounts and they all said there wouldn't be any problems with the seal but how much they would back it... who knows.

 

I'd love to get the rigid but I can't justify it for my use. I will be buying a smaller bar and a couple sets of duallys; but the 50" will have to be cheaper

KUUG-- look at the pro-lights http://pro-lights.com/ made by the exact same company....China....

 

prices are good till April 1st...... there is a post with pricing on one if the pages back on this subject...

Edited by jdthomas24
KUUG Enthusiast

KUUG

Posted
Posted

KUUG-- look at the pro-lights http://pro-lights.com/ made by the exact same company....China....

 

prices are good till April 1st...... there is a post with pricing on one if the pages back on this subject...

 

I did see the post, unfortunately I'm getting into a new house so I have to delay my big 50" LED purchase a few more months

  • 3 weeks later...
Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

What are you guys using as a mounting solution behind the grill? and what part are you mounting on? I am looking at putting it on my 14 sierra 1500.

Depends on bar size. If you use a 40" you can mount it to the outer wall that lines the grille 4upyregy.jpg

 

Whereas if you use a shorter bar I know some people are mounting to the bottom of that grille liner I just spoke of

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

Adding the final touches...

 

I ordered it from Steve www.sneveysoffroad.com

 

20inch highlander trail series with the combo beam.

 

The install wasnt as bad as i planned till wiring the relay and switch..

Finished product

 

 

Removing grill was a BITCH... Be prepared to cuss and drink like a fish.

Step one..

Open hood.

Pull tabs out that hold the plastic overlay.

Than there is 4x 10mm screws. Take those out...

 

Next go in the wheel well take 2x 7or 8mm screws out. (this holds the painted peice above your bumper on) pull edges off till it reaches headlights.

 

Now.. Slide under the head first under the bumper.. Above license plate there is painted to match clips push them with a flat head and wrap end of painted peice...

 

There is 4x more bolts on bottom of grill

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now i used a dremel to cut slots for the mounting arm here

 

 

Drilled holes and mounted.. Perfectly

 

LET THERE BE LIGHT!! THE

 

 

 

High beams and fogs.. (did that to)

 

 

You can compare that to just light bar.

Heres all together

 

 

 

Now the best part... I'm not drilling into a 40k trucks interior... Chevy made my dah here. I just pushed my toggled switch into here..

Holds Extremely tight.. Ran wires under panel under steering wheel out the hood popper.

 

 

 

 

Can you take some pictures during the day of where you ran the wiring. I'm looking at putting a 30" bar being my sierra grille and want to run the wires in a way that I am as least Invasive as possible

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

svtkidd23 Enthusiast

svtkidd23

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Adding the final touches...

I ordered it from Steve www.sneveysoffroad.com

20inch highlander trail series with the combo beam.

The install wasnt as bad as i planned till wiring the relay and switch..

Finished product

Removing grill was a BITCH... Be prepared to cuss and drink like a fish.

Step one..

Open hood.

Pull tabs out that hold the plastic overlay.

Than there is 4x 10mm screws. Take those out...

Next go in the wheel well take 2x 7or 8mm screws out. (this holds the painted peice above your bumper on) pull edges off till it reaches headlights.

Now.. Slide under the head first under the bumper.. Above license plate there is painted to match clips push them with a flat head and wrap end of painted peice...

There is 4x more bolts on bottom of grill

Now i used a dremel to cut slots for the mounting arm here

Drilled holes and mounted.. Perfectly

LET THERE BE LIGHT!! THE

High beams and fogs.. (did that to)

You can compare that to just light bar.

Heres all together

Now the best part... I'm not drilling into a 40k trucks interior... Chevy made my dah here. I just pushed my toggled switch into here..

Holds Extremely tight.. Ran wires under panel under steering wheel out the hood popper.

 

Can you take some pictures during the day of where you ran the wiring. I'm looking at putting a 30" bar being my sierra grille and want to run the wires in a way that I am as least Invasive as possible

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ran through a grommet where steering shaft

 

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      GM discontinuing interior parts on a 5YO vehicle??

      By Atlas · Posted

      If one can't be found, a good automotive upholstery shop should be able to replace/sew in a new panel where the damage is on the old cover. It might not be the cheapest option..
    • Chuck FB
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Does your dealer charge you for the tire rotation on top of the oil change price ?. I haven't had any service work done at my dealer yet other than when I brought it back soon after owning it to have the front end aligned to correct the steering wheel being off center a bit. Oh they called me at least twice hounding me to bring it in for an oil change and pushing a 300.00 package of oil change and tire rotation and whatever other quick simplistic checks they would do. Only going off of what a friend gets charged for his half ton for the basic oil change and its the same amount of oil as the L8T holds, it was about 150.00. Once one buys a set of tires from most shops these days or so I believe, they will do free tire rotations and some do free tire balancing as well as free tire repairs.    Certainly doing a tire rotation is no five minute job, and definitely not at home but because I run a set of winter tires on their own wheels, I swap them at home and its a one tire at a time deal because of the tire season swap although I jack up the rear and do it and drop it back down and then raise the front and do them and coordinate the tire rotation into that process for both sets of tires. I am using a floor jack though and if I need to raise both ends at once I use a couple sets of jack stands to have all four tires off the ground. I use either an air impact or battery impact and have electric impact as well so no shortage there of easy methods to spin the lug nuts, and then retorquing the lug nuts. None of it goes quick though but my wages are cheap though ... zero. I live an hour out of town, its easier just to do things like that myself than waste a bunch of time in town and having to make an appointment and probably a special trip and sit there at the tire shop waiting for them to get my vehicle in and get it done and not screw something up in the process. 
    • mrbflat
      Clunk when coming to a stop... driveshaft/slip yoke? Mechanic couldn't recreate it

      By mrbflat · Posted

      I do have the 8 speed.  Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all!  I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem.  I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop.  I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.
    • Pryme
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Pryme · Posted

      Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like 
    • Grumpy Bear
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar.    One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem.    Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage.    He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit.    I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard.    I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...