Jump to content

LED Front Light Bars & Pods

svtkidd23

By svtkidd23
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Jon A
Jon A

A double row works well behind the Denali grill. Here's my 30" curved Totron:                 The LED's are 1" appart and the rows of holes in the grill just happen to be 1" ap

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

The correct term is "illegal commodities broker" thank you!   I actually work for an oil company, which is similar because both businesses provide highly desired products at artificially inflated

Danthaman69
Danthaman69

Here it is.

Posted Images

440hsp Enthusiast

440hsp

Posted
Posted

Thanks!!

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

calgator73 Senior Enthusiast

calgator73

Posted
Posted

Installed my 30" single row behind the grill yesterday. I need to get some pictures of the finished product with everything back on and the light on, etc. but you get the picture.

 

12a3564006a254268711bdf8fc46edf9.jpg

dcc6c4255db4004f3dec8719b9373260.jpg

60f50319eff8f354633a835211b5c3a4.jpg

Looking to do something similar on my Sierra hd. Have you noticed any increased temps?

 

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

Looking to do something similar on my Sierra hd. Have you noticed any increased temps?

 

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

 

None at all. The radiator still gets plenty of air flow. As you can see in the pic, the AT grill is vented so even with that one gap covered up, still plenty of air getting to the radiator.

Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

Thanks...got any night pics?

 

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

 

Well if you look back a page, you'll see that I swapped out the single row for a double row light bar. The single row wasn't as bright as I thought it would be. I am going to take some output pictures of the new one this weekend and post them up.

 

Here's what I've got from the single row.

 

55W 5000K Hid Lows

FA67AB33-45DE-4AFE-8E37-F745D7DB1976.jpg

 

High's

3C1F9948-1F68-44DC-8DA5-B73789CCF027.jpg

 

Lows and Light Bar

3A4D72CE-175E-453F-8B39-16590FADD10A.jpg

calgator73 Senior Enthusiast

calgator73

Posted
Posted (edited)

Looks like the lows with bar are about the same as the highs by themselves? Thank you!

 

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

Edited by calgator73
Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

Looks like the lows with bar are about the same as the highs by themselves? Thank you!

 

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

 

It appears so in the picture yes, but I can tell you the light bar puts out much more light than the headlights do. These were taken with my iPhone so not the best pictures.

 

I will say that the new bar I installed completely blows this one out of the water.

Herd Thinners Enthusiast

Herd Thinners

Posted
Posted

I have a few questions. I am going to install the e30 ridged spot/combo a/w. I do not want to cut into my dash so my alternatives:

wireless or garage door opener link with the wireless connection or install a switch in one of the cigarette outlets in the center consol.

 

1. Being the bar switches from white to amber will the wireless remote work.

2. If I link it to the Intel link garage door button will it work maybe push once white push a second Amber third off. I'm asking I have no idea.

3. I read someone doing the cig lighter center console install has anyone else. Wonder how extensive or a pain it is.

 

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

Adding the final touches... I ordered it from Steve www.sneveysoffroad.com 20inch highlander trail series with the combo beam. The install wasnt as bad as i planned till wiring the relay and switch.. Finished product evynybev.jpg Removing grill was a BITCH... Be prepared to cuss and drink like a fish. Step one.. Open hood. Pull tabs out that hold the plastic overlay. Than there is 4x 10mm screws. Take those out... Next go in the wheel well take 2x 7or 8mm screws out. (this holds the painted peice above your bumper on) pull edges off till it reaches headlights. Now.. Slide under the head first under the bumper.. Above license plate there is painted to match clips push them with a flat head and wrap end of painted peice... There is 4x more bolts on bottom of grill a9umy4u8.jpgbyve8uje.jpg6aqu6e3a.jpg Now i used a dremel to cut slots for the mounting arm here apu8avut.jpg Drilled holes and mounted.. Perfectly LET THERE BE LIGHT!! THE ehare5uj.jpgyqahudub.jpg High beams and fogs.. (did that to) any3upa2.jpg You can compare that to just light bar. Heres all together su9u5ere.jpg Now the best part... I'm not drilling into a 40k trucks interior... Chevy made my dah here. I just pushed my toggled switch into here.. Holds Extremely tight.. Ran wires under panel under steering wheel out the hood popper. ydu7azub.jpg3ega8e9y.jpg

 

 

has anybody put a light bar behind a LTZ model?

 

This is post #1 in this thread. Idk if that helps you at all.

Willie will Enthusiast

Willie will

Posted
Posted (edited)

that's a LT grill.. I think if I get a light bar behind the grill, I don't think you would see that much light come through.

Edited by Willie will
Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

What does your grill look like? I'm pretty sure I've seen a light bar behind just about every silverado/sierra when I was doing research for mine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      2027 3.0 l Duramax

      By newdude · Posted

      Thrust bearing is a very small window.  But nice try.   Turbo oil filter?  Haven't seen any failures.  Change your oil more frequently.  Use a better oil than the factory oil.  
    • newdude
      2026 sierra bad brake controller

      By newdude · Posted

      There is a p/n called out in the one PI that GM has.  Curt 57003 inline load adapter that is used for LED trailers that are having trouble with these newer trucks.  No cutting, no splicing, etc.  GM did update the lighting module around 2023 to better pick up trailers with LED lighting, but it still can happen.     Here's the link to the Curt site for it - 7-Way RV Blade LED Electrical Adapter (Not a Wiring Extension) SKU #57003 by CURT   The PI I am referencing - MC-10208985-9999.pdf   Its not just a GM deal either.  Newer Fords and Rams have this same problem.       In another PI, they recommend that the trailer has a Pollock brand 7 way on it as that is who makes the truck sides for the OEMs.  GM is also big on making sure the trailer is trouble free.  So no wiring issues, all lights are functional, better quality 7 way plug, etc.     The other PI I am referencing - MC-10178359-9999.pdf   The model year range is older but it is the current PI for 2014-2026.  It calls out the Pollock RV HD 7 way they recommend.  
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      That's part of the problem...the EGR has already been replaced, and I've already had the complete intake assembly removed, and the EGR passages were clear at that time. That leaves wiring, PCM, or another variable that I wasn't expecting. Best I can tell, it's not wiring or the PCM, so I'm grasping for straws.   The PCM uses the MAP reading to confirm the requisite loss of vacuum in the manifold when the EGR activates. Since that's vacuum related, it involves a lot of other systems which could play a role.   The overall diagnosis has to be considered too. The fuel lines in the intake had rubbed through and were dumping fuel into the intake, drowning the cylinders in fuel, and putting raw fuel into the sump and cat converter. The fuel system has been fixed but the complete path of damage may not be. If the cat was damaged and melted the internals, it could be partially obstructed and also playing into the EGR issue.   I'm retracing my steps; trying to go back to thinking thinking Horses not Zebras based on the clues I've been given. These engines aren't *that* complex.   Could it be, now that the truck is running well, that carbon and crud from being run with the fuel system in disarray is now dislodging and clogged my clean EGR passages where I can't see?  That's what the code is actually saying. The flow is restricted, dummy. Retrace step 1.   I may just need to remove the lower intake again. Before I do that I'm going to try removing the EGR and running the engine for a few seconds to see if it will blow anything lodged in the egr passages out through the open ports.     That's been helpful in the past. For the spider injector, there's no guarantee I'll get a working one. The spider I have seems fine now that the high pressure fuel line isn't making an early delivery via large hole. SO at least I'm not marooned and looking for one of those.   Row52 (dot com) is also a good one for watching for vehicles at local yards.  
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Disassembly may be Required!   Every blender makes claims but do  you ponder those claims? What was really said? Was it true?  Motive for saying it? What does in infer?  Is that inference true?    Let's do one.    Claim: Made from shear stable base oils.    What was said: Base Oils are shear proof.   Was it true: Yes.  ALL base oils are Newtonian.    Motive / Inference: To imply the fully formulated product is Shear Proof.    Is the Inference true?: Most fully formulated multigrade oils contain Viscosity Modifiers or VM's, sometimes called VII or Viscosity Index Improvers. There are four types. One is in fact shear proof but it also has a bad effect on extreme cold flow and is restricted to use in specialty oils. A second has limited shear called a 0-5 SSI polymer. Meaning its shear is limited to a range of zero to five percent as reported by the ASTM D6278 Shear Stability Index test. A few high end oils, like Torco SR-5, use them and brag about it profusely. Actually all that use it point it out. The last two shear dramatically and are often marketed as a 'feature' of the product aiding the oil to meet fuel standard requirements of ever stricter rules. One shears more than 5% and the other up to 20%. As you make guess, cost is directly linked to shear down and as such the majority of oils use the cheapest organic polymers sold to make grade and pass stringent tests.    PPD's or Pour Point Depressants also shear a bit, only a few percent and hide inside the 0-5 SSI capabilities.    The blender knows he can not out engineer Stribeck. Physics is not a suggestion. But he can wordcraft the unsuspecting toward believing a false claims INFERENCE. This is LEGAL. It is COMMON, and it is EFFECTIVE.         
    • Jsdirt
      2006 Silverado HVAC sensor location in dashboard

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      I don't recall ever dealing with one on an '06 and back. It may not even exist on that. I can't remember for sure.   Any kind of ice in or after the evaporator is normally due to low charge with both a clutch-cycling orifice tube system, and a TXV system.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...