Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
5 hours ago, Waaazooo said:

Are you guys fabricating your own brackets?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used the brackets that came with the light and used some flat aluminum channel to mount the brackets too. Might be hard to see but here's a pic i took during install.

 

 

20180129_153907.jpg

Posted
Are you guys fabricating your own brackets?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I used the rough country brackets.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 10/21/2014 at 1:17 PM, justin283 said:

Just an update. I mounted another 32" bar behind my LTZ grill. I'm loving the light it puts out.

at5emca.jpg

0bwMs7p.jpg

qIFOOwK.jpg

Will a 40" light bar fit? 

Posted
On 1/27/2018 at 10:17 PM, DirtyMarcus said:

Installed a 42" curved bar behind the grille. Took some cutting and rigging and removing the entire grille and supports, including whats shown in the picture below.  All in all there were about 30 or more bolts to remove, misc. wiring, hood latch, and headlights.  I couldn't upload a better picture because photobucket charges and the site doesn't allow over 4.8mb pics to post.  It took about 6 hours of time, start to finish to do properly, but I like it. 

 

 

 

20180128_124558.jpg

I just ordered 2 40" light bars, think I can install both behind the grill of my gmc? 

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, OUSux said:

Will a 40" light bar fit? 

I think a 40" would be cutting it close with the sides

 

Edited by schmolf4
Posted
On 4/14/2018 at 11:07 AM, OUSux said:

I just ordered 2 40" light bars, think I can install both behind the grill of my gmc? 

I doubt it if the GMC is laid out like the Chevy, behind the grille.  42" is the max I could fit width wise and only one.  The reason I could only fit one behind the grille is that the hood release is in the way up high and there's no relocating that.  You cant really tell but i disassembled a lot of stuff to get that one 42" bar in there and did A LOT of measuring and  trimming on the radiator deflector that connects to my grille.  It wasnt hard but time consuming for sure.

Posted

First post! Anyways, have yet to see a '17/'18 with a lightbar behind the grill with shutters. Here's my '18 with a 25" ultra slim tucked in there. Clean setup and no hacking to get it there.

28168379_10155880882340199_4505138756854425250_n.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted
First post! Anyways, have yet to see a '17/'18 with a lightbar behind the grill with shutters. Here's my '18 with a 25" ultra slim tucked in there. Clean setup and no hacking to get it there.
28168379_10155880882340199_4505138756854425250_n.thumb.jpg.7a5cfdf2a39ef425109aa8fa90780779.jpg

Have a link and pics without the grille?


2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L
4.5" Zone
22x10 American Force Grips
33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers
Instagram @wildchevys
Posted
First post! Anyways, have yet to see a '17/'18 with a lightbar behind the grill with shutters. Here's my '18 with a 25" ultra slim tucked in there. Clean setup and no hacking to get it there.
28168379_10155880882340199_4505138756854425250_n.thumb.jpg.7a5cfdf2a39ef425109aa8fa90780779.jpg
More info! Where did you get the light bar? How did you mount it?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
9 hours ago, CKrado said:

More info! Where did you get the light bar? How did you mount it?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

 

9 hours ago, jimmyboy8301 said:


Have a link and pics without the grille?


2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L
4.5" Zone
22x10 American Force Grips
33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers
Instagram @wildchevys

Ya who makes the bar and got any pics of doing the instal 

Posted
20 hours ago, CKrado said:

More info! Where did you get the light bar? How did you mount it?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

I'm unsure of the true brand of the bar, it's a re-branded one i bought from a local distributor. Output isn't too shabby for a small single row bar. I have no pic's at the moment of the install. But it mounts to the lower plastic lip of the grill with the brackets provided with the bar, Only needed to drill two 1/4" holes and run my wiring. For a wiring i always use morimoto harnesses, They are really nice.

  • 5 months later...
Posted (edited)

Just got my light bar installed thanks too nicbeem put a 20 inch single row in and ran wires and tapped into the fog lights comes on with the fog lights and work perfectly 

0E4263BE-FF59-44F1-B625-28E88DE92DE7.jpeg

Edited by David solar
  • Like 2
  • 5 months later...
Posted
On 9/20/2017 at 9:07 PM, nicbeem said:

Thanks to this thread, I figured out where I wanted to mount a lightbar on my Sierra

post-177787-0-68855900-1505959402_thumb.jpeg

post-177787-0-51425200-1505959426_thumb.jpeg

post-177787-0-68855900-1505959402_thumb.jpeg

post-177787-0-51425200-1505959426_thumb.jpeg

post-177787-0-68855900-1505959402_thumb.jpeg

post-177787-0-51425200-1505959426_thumb.jpeg

post-177787-0-68855900-1505959402_thumb.jpeg

post-177787-0-51425200-1505959426_thumb.jpeg

What mounting equipment did you use for the light bar?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,964
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BrandonFranceschi
    Newest Member
    BrandonFranceschi
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,231 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...