Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Wow, there are allot of pages to this thread... and I'm admittedly kinda lazy to read them all.

Question, why would lowering shackles be better than just taking the block out from between the diff and the springs? Seems like just removing the block would accomplish the same thing, be way faster, and be free.

What am I missing here? What's the disadvantage to that, or risk to that... vs spending a couple hours and some money on lowering shackles?

Posted

Well since your LAZY... If you just remove the block it is still not enough drop to level the truck being the block is only 1 1/4" shackles are 2" max drop.

 

RT

Posted

Well since your LAZY... If you just remove the block it is still not enough drop to level the truck being the block is only 1 1/4" shackles are 2" max drop.

 

RT

Yep. I had to pull the block and do 2" shackles to get it level.

Posted

So I finally decided to just do shackles and remove the blocks for now, but then what brand of shackles are the best? The DJM ones look nice and stout.

Posted

26x9 intro id350. 295/30r26 tire wil be a 5/10 drop maybe a little more up front

 

post-152948-0-22210300-1456199743_thumb.jpg

post-152948-0-22210300-1456199743_thumb.jpg

post-152948-0-22210300-1456199743_thumb.jpg

post-152948-0-22210300-1456199743_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

26x9 intro id350. 295/30r26 tire wil be a 5/10 drop maybe a little more up front

 

attachicon.gif12744181_10208986457485368_1995555257217083125_n.jpg

More pis please

 

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Posted

truck isnt done yet still waiting on axles for the rear end to come in from moser

Posted (edited)

26x9 intro id350. 295/30r26 tire wil be a 5/10 drop maybe a little more up front

 

attachicon.gif12744181_10208986457485368_1995555257217083125_n.jpg

Sweet wheels. That thing is screaming for a big brake kit now!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

These would look amazing behind those wheels

post-145646-0-18052800-1456379471_thumb.jpeg

post-145646-0-18052800-1456379471_thumb.jpeg

post-145646-0-18052800-1456379471_thumb.jpeg

post-145646-0-18052800-1456379471_thumb.jpeg

Edited by Silver ice 6.2
Posted

For you guys with 2" lowering shackles that had to use shims: I had Belltech 2" lowering shackles installed on my 2014 RCSB, with no other mods. Now I have a vibration in the 20-30 mph range, that wasn't there before. I'm planning to shim it now, but my question is should the shim be installed directly between the bottom spring and the block, or between the block and the mounting perch that the block sits on? I've read through the thread, but it's not entirely clear to me.

 

Thanks in advance.

Posted

I'm wondering if there is a kit ready to be installed in my upcoming 2016 silverado high country 4WD. I guess it will come with aluminum control arms.

I'M noob in this category so if there is a direct link to purchase it would be nice.

Posted

These would look amazing behind those wheels

yeah , goals for sure. im gonna look up a few different companies like baer, r1 concepts etc, the 16" rotors are def nice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,318 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...