Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
7 minutes ago, Nasty said:

When you lower 07-18 silverados with struts pr spring. The lower you go, the farther back the front wheel goes back into the wheel well. Which causes mkre rubbing and looks horrible.   Spindles wont affect that

Ahhh...this is what I was afraid of and thought the OEM spindles would not allow this to happen, but now that I think about it the strut would/could cause this as opposed to the spindles...Thank you for the heads up!

Edited by RDKILL
Posted
Just now, RDKILL said:

Ahhh...this is what I was afraid of and though the OEM spindles would not allow this to happen, but now that I think about it the strut would/could cause this as opposed to the spindles...Thank you for the heads up!

The upper arm is mounted at a back angle. The the top of the spindle will follow that.  Lowering spindle will decrease that

Posted
4 minutes ago, RDKILL said:

Yes, I just checked the sight, and I have cast control arms. My truck is an early 2016, and the kits say aluminum.

I'll reach out the to sales person I talked to earlier to see if they have spindles for cast CA...Thanks!

I have mcgagheys on my 16 which are cast

Posted
2 minutes ago, Nasty said:

I have mcgagheys on my 16 which are cast

I'll check out McGaughys as well...were you the one that said the ride is a little harsh with McGaughys? If not sorry, maybe I saw that on a vid in a comparo...too much info to analyze!

Posted
11 minutes ago, RDKILL said:

I'll check out McGaughys as well...were you the one that said the ride is a little harsh with McGaughys? If not sorry, maybe I saw that on a vid in a comparo...too much info to analyze!

Theyre the same but i prefer the mcg spindles over belltech. Nothing wrong with belltech. I just like mcg

Posted

I just saw this kit McGaughys Part # 34170-2 which has spinles, but they don't recommend going lower than 2" in the front...which I can live with.

It mentioned if going really low in the rear you need a C notch, which I don't plan to go any lower than 4 or 5 in the rear.

However, what is a C notch?

Posted

Just watched a vid on C notching a Chevy...I don't think I'll be doing that any time soon!

Posted
7 minutes ago, RDKILL said:

Just watched a vid on C notching a Chevy...I don't think I'll be doing that any time soon!

Im having my underbed notch installed innthe next month or so   and this winter when the truck sits. Its getting shipped out for new front suspension

Posted

Does anyone have a picture showing the different lowering control arms?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Posted
8 hours ago, Nasty said:

Im having my underbed notch installed innthe next month or so   and this winter when the truck sits. Its getting shipped out for new front suspension

Man how low are you going?

 

I'm already thinking about oil change difficulties with a 3/5, spoiled now that I can just crawl under and flip my Fumoto valve and drain...LOL!

 

Doesn't a C notch weaken the rear frame of the truck?

Or, are the reinforcements that are welded in place to make up for the strength the notch seems to remove?

 

It just seems at the apex of the notch it will be a weak point especially if hit from the back in an accident...like the frame would buckle at that point?

Posted
9 hours ago, RDKILL said:

I just saw this kit McGaughys Part # 34170-2 which has spinles, but they don't recommend going lower than 2" in the front...which I can live with.

It mentioned if going really low in the rear you need a C notch, which I don't plan to go any lower than 4 or 5 in the rear.

However, what is a C notch?

That kit says it will do 2''-4.5'' in the front.  That has everything you will need to drop your truck.  

Posted
43 minutes ago, qwank said:

That kit says it will do 2''-4.5'' in the front.  That has everything you will need to drop your truck.  

Yeah that's what I thought too, but I'm going to call them on Monday to ask about their recommendations to not go lower than 2" on the front, when the kit allows to go lower.

I see they wrote so you don't have complications with your 4x4 drive, but wonder if that's just due to ground clearance or something else.

Posted
3 minutes ago, RDKILL said:

Yeah that's what I thought too, but I'm going to call them on Monday to ask about their recommendations to not go lower than 2" on the front, when the kit allows to go lower.

I see they wrote so you don't have complications with your 4x4 drive, but wonder if that's just due to ground clearance or something else.

You might get a little more binding from the front axles at 4'' when in 4wd,  but it shouldn't be too bad.  My truck is 4x4 lowered 4'' in the front.  

Posted
2 minutes ago, qwank said:

You might get a little more binding from the front axles at 4'' when in 4wd,  but it shouldn't be too bad.  My truck is 4x4 lowered 4'' in the front.  

When you say "binding" do mean while turning?

I guess going 3" should be safe then...and it seems I can always go up to 2" if needed with this kit.

Posted
1 hour ago, RDKILL said:

Man how low are you going?

 

I'm already thinking about oil change difficulties with a 3/5, spoiled now that I can just crawl under and flip my Fumoto valve and drain...LOL!

 

Doesn't a C notch weaken the rear frame of the truck?

Or, are the reinforcements that are welded in place to make up for the strength the notch seems to remove?

 

It just seems at the apex of the notch it will be a weak point especially if hit from the back in an accident...like the frame would buckle at that point?

5/8 the correct way.   And if the notch is good and the person installing the notch is good. It will actually be stronger than the oem frame    the notch is 1/4" steel   

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,464 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...