Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

jcfountain33 Enthusiast

jcfountain33

Posted
Posted

I have the bell tech rear shackle with the block removed and rides no different than stock. Springs are the same, just slightly different attachment point. Not low enough to bottom out.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

Dinner Enthusiast

Dinner

Posted
Posted
On 7/19/2018 at 6:46 PM, Dinner said:

Alright, I'm going to need some help here guys. My gut and measurements tell me that the rear DJM 7" flip kit lowered it too much but I want to know what I should do.

 

Put it on a flat surface (alignment rack) and here is what I have from fender to wheel centre.

 

DF - 18" 1/8        PF - 18" 5/8    - 1/2" difference which should be fixed by pulling the 10mm spacer on PF to account for the "Chevy Lean" 

DR - 17" 1/2        PR - 17" 3/4  

 

Now another concern is the rear wheels sit way back in the wheel well. 

 

DR is 1" 7/8 - Tire to bottom of wheel well 
PR is 2" - Tire to bottom of wheel well 

 

Is this normal? 
Any help would be appreciated. 

I went with the DJM kit cause I could adjust the pinion angle which was great cause I have ZERO vibrations but this cali lean is driving me nuts 

Update...

Installed the 6526 Belltech kit and got some better results 

 

DF 18           PF 18.5             *Haven't pulled the PF spacer yet* 

DR 18.25      RR 18.5 

 

The rear wheels sit a little more centre in the wheel well but not by much 

 

DR is 2" from the tire to the rear fender lip
RR is 2.5" from the tire to the rear fender lip 

 

No vibrations. Going to drive it home and back to work tomorrow and re-check all the bolts and maybe see I can shift the driver side ahead at all to make a little less noticeable. 

 

Any suggestions? I've seen a lot K2 trucks around 5-8" drop in the rear with wheels sitting centre and some I see are way pushed back. Going to assume that the ones that are centre have had they're driveshafts shorten? 

 

 

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
36 minutes ago, Dinner said:

Update...

Installed the 6526 Belltech kit and got some better results 

 

DF 18           PF 18.5             *Haven't pulled the PF spacer yet* 

DR 18.25      RR 18.5 

 

The rear wheels sit a little more centre in the wheel well but not by much 

 

DR is 2" from the tire to the rear fender lip
RR is 2.5" from the tire to the rear fender lip 

 

No vibrations. Going to drive it home and back to work tomorrow and re-check all the bolts and maybe see I can shift the driver side ahead at all to make a little less noticeable. 

 

Any suggestions? I've seen a lot K2 trucks around 5-8" drop in the rear with wheels sitting centre and some I see are way pushed back. Going to assume that the ones that are centre have had they're driveshafts shorten? 

 

 

Yes. Change the flip kit. My mcg kit is centered. and it wont loosen up like the djm tends to do

Dinner Enthusiast

Dinner

Posted
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Nasty said:

Yes. Change the flip kit. My mcg kit is centered. and it wont loosen up like the djm tends to do

The DJM is gone, this is a Belltech which is very similar to the Mcg and fixed 98% of my issues. Going back on the hoist tomorrow to double check torque and everything else 

 

 

 

 

thumbnail_IMG_0778.jpg

Edited by Dinner
  • Like 1
SirenRed16 Senior Enthusiast

SirenRed16

Posted
Posted
The DJM is gone, this is a Belltech which is very similar to the Mcg and fixed 98% of my issues. Going back on the hoist tomorrow to double check torque and everything else 
 
 
 
 
thumbnail_IMG_0778.thumb.jpg.ec0f70268767bc7b79220d6f6c32a44d.jpg
Is that 4/6?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
SirenRed16 Senior Enthusiast

SirenRed16

Posted
Posted
The DJM is gone, this is a Belltech which is very similar to the Mcg and fixed 98% of my issues. Going back on the hoist tomorrow to double check torque and everything else 
 
 
 
 
thumbnail_IMG_0778.thumb.jpg.ec0f70268767bc7b79220d6f6c32a44d.jpg
Is that 4/6?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Dinner Enthusiast

Dinner

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, SirenRed16 said:

Is that 4/6?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

4/7 but it ended up measuring out to a 3.75 / 6.5 

jegreenwood14 Enthusiast

jegreenwood14

Posted
Posted
22 hours ago, SirenRed16 said:

It depends, do you use your truck to go off roading any? If you do then stick with the level up front. If you do no off roading then I say drop the back, the level up front is adding more stress to components even though many say it doesn't. I don't see what components have added stress with the shackles.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

Is there a noticeable difference in the rear ride, when shackles are added?  Trying to figure out if the ass rides like ass after the drop, lol.

SirenRed16 Senior Enthusiast

SirenRed16

Posted
Posted
Is there a noticeable difference in the rear ride, when shackles are added?  Trying to figure out if the ass rides like ass after the drop, lol.
For me no. I had the truck stock for about 3 months maybe before I had the shackles installed. Going on 16 months with the shackles and I don't remember the truck riding any different stock.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Plwtwo Enthusiast

Plwtwo

Posted
Posted
I wanted to chime in here as well.
 
2014 Silverado DCSB LT Z71 4WD.

Really wanting to lower it at some point. I've looked at every possible kit for these trucks and just not sure where to go with it mainly because of the fact that it's 4WD. I know there's companies out there making stuff for the truck, but when you're like me and have never done suspension work or even lowered a pickup before, things can get a tiny bit overwhelming pretty quickly.

I planned on starting out on either an easy 2/3 drop (while upgrading shocks and struts since the ranchos have 70K+ miles on them now) to get a feel for how I'd like having the truck lowered, and possibly going to a 3/5 or 4/6, but biggest things I'm concerned about are the driveshafts and CV axles (All of which really ought to be upgraded since I would like to go faster, but that's a different topic for a different area of the forum) and pinion angles, etc. All that fun stuff.

Am I really making it out to be that hard in my head, or is there honestly more to it?
 
Forgive me if this has been long since discussed. Trying to dig through 106 pages of posts is going to get tiring quick. So, I do apologize if it's been discussed. I figured it'd be easier to reply here rather than start a new thread.

Go with Mcgaughys kits they use the same parts in a lot of their kits that are used by GM; example their leaf springs for the 2014+ lowering kits the leafs are from same company that makes GM’s they just have less of an arch so u could swap ur leafs for Mcgaughys and have same ride quality! I actually used to co-own a performance shop and we rep’d Beltech at the time. I swapped to Mcgaughys due to ride quality for my personal vehicles. This 2014 4wd All-Terrain makes the 13th lowered vehicle Ive owned and 5th 4wd lowered. aecf28749b90703cafdd8c75b7d15360.jpg3def495e8aa0156c2ab97e8708505bbb.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
jegreenwood14 Enthusiast

jegreenwood14

Posted
Posted

FUUUUU... so conflicted on what I want to do.  Any opinions are welcomed.

 

I have had my truck for a while now, and put a leveling kit on the week I bought it.  Have since added larger tires, and been driving the hell out of it.  Thinking of dropping it back down to stock, and either removing the blocks or adding a 2" shackle drop.  I know it won't be perfectly level, but it'll be close enough I think.  Should I go through the trouble of removing the spacer/adding shackles/removing the block, or just leave as is?  Would also probably trade back for 20s like I had when I bought it, but might roll with 18s for a while.  Think I could fit my 33s at stock height with a dropped rear?  I have a new set of 275/65/18 in the garage, that I pulled off these wheels when I got them.. I could toss those back on.  Wouldn't mind the stock ride again, and if I drop it back down I think it'll be low enough that I can take my steps off and the wife can get in without complaining. 

 

Current:

znNfVNK.jpg

 

How I'd look if I dropped back down to stock and removed the block/added a 2" shackle drop (this truck was posted on here a while back):

bFwomNb.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
jcfountain33 Enthusiast

jcfountain33

Posted
Posted
FUUUUU... so conflicted on what I want to do.  Any opinions are welcomed.
 
I have had my truck for a while now, and put a leveling kit on the week I bought it.  Have since added larger tires, and been driving the hell out of it.  Thinking of dropping it back down to stock, and either removing the blocks or adding a 2" shackle drop.  I know it won't be perfectly level, but it'll be close enough I think.  Should I go through the trouble of removing the spacer/adding shackles/removing the block, or just leave as is?  Would also probably trade back for 20s like I had when I bought it, but might roll with 18s for a while.  Think I could fit my 33s at stock height with a dropped rear?  I have a new set of 275/65/18 in the garage, that I pulled off these wheels when I got them.. I could toss those back on.  Wouldn't mind the stock ride again, and if I drop it back down I think it'll be low enough that I can take my steps off and the wife can get in without complaining. 
 
Current:
znNfVNK.jpg
 
How I'd look if I dropped back down to stock and removed the block/added a 2" shackle drop (this truck was posted on here a while back):
bFwomNb.jpg
 
 
I did the Belltech 6401 kit, shackles and nut spacers for removing the block and I'm perfectly level, within ⅛" all the way around, on my 17 Crew Cab LT. Rides great, no issues, with stick size tires.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Breedsrt said:

Any know of any good shops around north Houston that can install a Belltech 2/4 lowering kit?

Reklez in pearland

2k10CrewCab Enthusiast

2k10CrewCab

Posted
Posted
On 8/15/2018 at 4:52 AM, jegreenwood14 said:

FUUUUU... so conflicted on what I want to do.  Any opinions are welcomed.

 

I have had my truck for a while now, and put a leveling kit on the week I bought it.  Have since added larger tires, and been driving the hell out of it.  Thinking of dropping it back down to stock, and either removing the blocks or adding a 2" shackle drop.  I know it won't be perfectly level, but it'll be close enough I think.  Should I go through the trouble of removing the spacer/adding shackles/removing the block, or just leave as is?  Would also probably trade back for 20s like I had when I bought it, but might roll with 18s for a while.  Think I could fit my 33s at stock height with a dropped rear?  I have a new set of 275/65/18 in the garage, that I pulled off these wheels when I got them.. I could toss those back on.  Wouldn't mind the stock ride again, and if I drop it back down I think it'll be low enough that I can take my steps off and the wife can get in without complaining. 

 

Current:

znNfVNK.jpg

 

How I'd look if I dropped back down to stock and removed the block/added a 2" shackle drop (this truck was posted on here a while back):

bFwomNb.jpg

 

 

Here’s mine with a 2” drop shackle to give you an idea. Bottom pic is with 24s on 395/35 tire. I’m looking into a 4/6 or 5/7 drop kit now. Just kinda undecided between MG or the Inez kit. 

39AA81EE-5ED1-43F7-AAC5-882B862F2056.jpeg

2C68A196-EB86-4F99-8F51-FB3EE255070A.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      I tried before I updated the scan tool just incase an update messed it up, but it never worked so I updated the scan tool and it still didn't work.   Only difference is I click on Sierra not Chevrolet cause I have a Sierra.   If I click on 2026-2024 I didn't have any option to change placard, when I click on 2023 it does give me the option but when I try to do it,.it says vehicle not supported!   I have my region or market or whatever it is set to America I think, is that what yours is set to?
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its just that it worked on 2024 trucks on this forum and my 2025 model truck, unless GM did something since that point to screw up access or Autel has a bad update. I haven't had need to use my tool since last year when I did the changes to the placard pressure settings and since then I updated the software on my Autel but have not plugged into the OBD so hard to say if I would get a surprise as well.    All I know last year when I bought the Autel I was warned to be sure to update it before I tried using the unit as they said who knows how long ago unit itself was actually manufactured as the software could be way out of date. 
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      And so you had gone through the process of registering and updating the tool and so on ?. All I can say is that on the front page as the tool fires up you go to advanced mode, then vehicle model comes up and you choose Silverado ( not the DRW or EV  since your a single rear wheel ) , then I think its choice 2 which is 07/2021 - 12/2026 ( 433mhz 13542523 ) as that is the series of tpms sensors and then go down to choice 5 which is tire type/pressure selection. Hit yes and it says to connect to OBD port and turn ignition on.    Having said this, I updated the software in my tool lately and these year range choices look different from the past due to them doing some updates it would appear and I have not connected up to the OBD port since last year so hopefully I am not in for a surprise with them screwing up the software and that it won't work on my truck anymore either.    So my question is, when you plugged into the OBD and started your truck it had that message on the Autel screen "vehicle not supported" ?. That does seem odd as tire shops would be pissed right off if hey can't use their tool on the model year after mine that in theory is supposed to be much the same truck ... unless GM did some change in the computer system to block certain things from access. 
    • Atlas
      Tire psi

      By Atlas · Posted

      Understanding and using modern scan tools is its own body of knowledge. I had little hope that would work...programming access to the BCM is probably required and that is not easy for us consumers. Expensive scan tool, GM programming subscription, online authentication, etc.   It also may be a matter of finding the right dealer to program it for you. Flashing a modern BCM might be a little too advanced for most tire shops.
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      AUX switch install

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      Update for anyone following:    Installed everything as shown in diagram. Opted for 8 AWG from Battery Positive to a 50A resettable inline breaker. 8 AWG is tied into to 2x 12 AWG wires feeding a 6 way fuse bus in parallel (manufacturer’s design of what I purchased).    4 of the 6 fuses available for circuits are tied to terminal 30 of each relay. I tied a jumper from one of my spare circuits off the bus to terminal 86 of each relay. The trigger, terminal 85, was pulled from my interior by way of T-Taps from the X61A-X5 pins 10, 11, 17 and 23. This was the hardest part of the job. Even with the X61A unbolted and the X5 removed - there was VERY little wiggle room.  I added back up lights that I want to come on with my cargo lamp - but when I would check continuity between S48A-X1 pin 18 to its respective landing point on the X61A-X5 it triggers the factory relay… Instead I opted for a add-a-fuse on the passenger interior fuse panel (fuse location 10 - cargo lamp) and ran it through the boot on the driver side to my load. Did this to avoid introducing any electrical gremlins.   Note: Please check for continuity between the S48A-X1 and the X61A-X5. In my case wire colours were not the same as other’s who have posted. To do a continuity check you need a Multimeter. Completely disassemble the S48A-X1 and remove the brown face plate off the X61A-X5 by way of a flat head screwdriver - this was the only way I could get any results.   The outputs, terminal 87 of the relays, were fed into a junction box and landed at Individual studs and were labelled Aux 1-4.    At this point, all you need to do is run wire to your loads and bring them to ground. I created a negative bus in the engine bay, all my negatives land here.    For anyone having issues with all of your new aux switch lights coming on with the press of one - I noticed this only to be an issue when the battery wasn’t hooked up to my relays? No idea why, but it was quickly corrected by having my system buttoned up and functional.     

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...