Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
26 minutes ago, Cf1k1 said:

 

After doing lots of reading both here and on the leveling/lift kit thread, I decided that in order to keep my truck more street friendly, I wanted to go ahead and drop the ass end instead of leveling the front. I ordered the belltech shackle kit after learning that just removing the rear block was not enough to level. With this being said I still have a few a questions that the search function did not turn up answers to. 

 

In order to level the truck, is it best to use the shackle at the 2" position or is better to remove the rear block and do the 2" position for about a drop of 3"?

 

On some of the amazon reviews, people were reporting having issue with removing the shackle botls. Some people said that they had to loosen the bed and raise the bed or even roll the bed seem. Furthermore, there was also talks about removing the hitch so that the lower shackle bolt can be removed. Can anyone attest to the factuality of this?

 

 


https://www.belltech.com/belltech-07-17-chevrolet-silverado-sierra-1-2-ton-all-2-or-3-rear-drop-6401.html

Depends id you have a regular can or crewcab. crewcan sit lower. And you may have to loosen the bed.  It takes longer but its actually easier

Posted
2 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Depends id you have a regular can or crewcab. crewcan sit lower. And you may have to loosen the bed.  It takes longer but its actually easier

I have a crew cab.

Posted
On 7/24/2018 at 10:42 AM, K_Sevy said:

Finally joined the forum. Been following this thread for awhile and just finished up installing a Belltech 3/4 on my 4wd truck. (struts, spindles, and a flip kit)

 

 

20180721_203457.jpg

20180723_161608_HDR.jpg

20180721_203440.jpg

Fantastic looking truck! Any chance you can tell me which part numbers from  Belltech the kit/parts you used are? Especially the rear flip kit? I was under the impression that the mildest drop you could do with a rear flip kit was 5”?? I checked there web page but it honestly frustrates me!! Cheers

Posted

I'm about to pull the trigger on Mcgaughys 34270 but I'm torn between going 4/6 or 4/7. For those on a 6" or lower drop in the rear are you guys bottoming out any?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Posted
I'm about to pull the trigger on Mcgaughys 34270 but I'm torn between going 4/6 or 4/7. For those on a 6" or lower drop in the rear are you guys bottoming out any?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


What cab?
Posted
I'm about to pull the trigger on Mcgaughys 34270 but I'm torn between going 4/6 or 4/7. For those on a 6" or lower drop in the rear are you guys bottoming out any?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


I'm at 4/6 and have never bottomed out. But I don't carry much in the bed with this truck either. 46fa156c47b5c17a7e17e7c68b12b02b.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted
3 hours ago, SirenRed16 said:

I'm about to pull the trigger on Mcgaughys 34270 but I'm torn between going 4/6 or 4/7. For those on a 6" or lower drop in the rear are you guys bottoming out any?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

I have a regular cab. i bottomed out but i have bump stops now 

Posted
I'm at 4/6 and have never bottomed out. But I don't carry much in the bed with this truck either. 46fa156c47b5c17a7e17e7c68b12b02b.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

That's a nice truck! Do you have a full side shot of the truck? To be completely leveled I need to go 3/6 or 4/7 right? 4/6 looks to have some rake to it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

4/6 does have a slight rake to it, it's no more than an inch difference front to back. 1ab1a278c3af28b887936eefd3adfe15.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted
4/6 does have a slight rake to it, it's no more than an inch difference front to back. 1ab1a278c3af28b887936eefd3adfe15.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


3/6 it is then unless I get convinced and go 4/7 lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Posted
3/6 it is then unless I get convinced and go 4/7 lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Lower is better

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
Lower is better

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Lower is better but our California roads are horrible and I don't want to hear the truck bottom out every time I hit a dip or hole. The kit is adjustable to i can always lower it some more

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Posted
18 minutes ago, SirenRed16 said:

Lower is better but our California roads are horrible and I don't want to hear the truck bottom out every time I hit a dip or hole. The kit is adjustable to i can always lower it some more

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

There's no way the roads are worse than New England's :lol:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 4,122 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...