Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

69b4c9830f59e9695b9f34af921a4d6c.jpg

Ebay $170 shipped stepside bars. Lets see how long they last. Weather is not bad down here in South Texas so not too worried on that side.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Here are some links:

 

This one is of the seller whom I bought from. Currently the price is at $209 but he occasionally drops the price a bit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2017-Chevy-Silverado-GMC-SIERRA-Crew-Cab-HOOP-STYLE-DROPPED-Steps-Nerf-Bars-/121962978667?hash=item1c658f5d6b:g:yVIAAOSwcLxYL2Gv&vxp=mtr

 

Or you can order from this other one who carries the same ones at $190 all the time.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2017-Chevy-Silverado-GMC-Sierra-Crew-Cab-HOOP-STYLE-BLACK-Nerf-Bars-STEPS-/322025879020?hash=item4afa3cf5ec:g:TZwAAOSwAuZX3BSc&vxp=mtr

 

How do these feel as far as line up with the door. Just got the nfabs installed and love look but that is pointless when the function sucks. They need to be moved about 4 inches back to be used comfortably. So have now considered other look alikes sucks as rough country which look identical or iron cross plus which have same look but adjustable in there positioning. Leaning in that direction but haven't seen any reviews. Also considering magnum rt but same concern of line up with door. And finally the new gm off roads that come on all terrain x look great but costly. Please help with ur experience with any of the above.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted

So, I took the risk on the raptor board. They help complete the grandpa look that I am going for.

post-169145-148915880541_thumb.jpg

 

Initial quality - ok

Mounting - ok

Ingress - ok

Egress - rubber pad is a little too far forward for left heel to catch.

post-169145-148915880541_thumb.jpg

post-169145-148915880541_thumb.jpg

post-169145-148915880541_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

How do these feel as far as line up with the door. Just got the nfabs installed and love look but that is pointless when the function sucks. They need to be moved about 4 inches back to be used comfortably. So have now considered other look alikes sucks as rough country which look identical or iron cross plus which have same look but adjustable in there positioning. Leaning in that direction but haven't seen any reviews. Also considering magnum rt but same concern of line up with door. And finally the new gm off roads that come on all terrain x look great but costly. Please help with ur experience with any of the above.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Completely agree on the Nfabs. They're okay for getting in the truck, but getting out, the positioning is too far forward. I hate to admit it, but the stock 6 inch steps I had at the beginning were much better in terms of function. Not only do the Nfabs not function all that well, I lost a lot of protection that my stock 6 inch steps provided from rocks and debris.

Edited by pcruis1
Posted

How do these feel as far as line up with the door. Just got the nfabs installed and love look but that is pointless when the function sucks. They need to be moved about 4 inches back to be used comfortably. So have now considered other look alikes sucks as rough country which look identical or iron cross plus which have same look but adjustable in there positioning. Leaning in that direction but haven't seen any reviews. Also considering magnum rt but same concern of line up with door. And finally the new gm off roads that come on all terrain x look great but costly. Please help with ur experience with any of the above.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I don't have experience with any of the others however for me these have been working great going in and out of the truck. I go left foot on step grab the steering wheel and in I go with ease and no sliding on seat whatsoever. Wife is happy about them too and even my little 3 year old uses them in the rear with no issues; but I definitely recommend them. My wife would have probably pointed something out immediately if the in and out procedure was uncomfortable. The steps are great and as previously recommended by others some linex can re-inforce them and prevent rust issues.

Posted

I don't have experience with any of the others however for me these have been working great going in and out of the truck. I go left foot on step grab the steering wheel and in I go with ease and no sliding on seat whatsoever. Wife is happy about them too and even my little 3 year old uses them in the rear with no issues; but I definitely recommend them. My wife would have probably pointed something out immediately if the in and out procedure was uncomfortable. The steps are great and as previously recommended by others some linex can re-inforce them and prevent rust issues.

Would u mind measuring from the back of the front wheel well to the center of the first step, give measurement, and then to the middle of the rear portion of the first step. I would like to compare with nfabs to see if they are further back. Thanks

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

I have to agree with you about the NFabs being more about form over function. The steps are just not very useful. If the flat step was more centered in the hoop in or out they would be more useful. Not to mention they are a snow and ice trap.

post-167554-0-92466900-1489376879.jpg

post-167554-0-92466900-1489376879.jpg

post-167554-0-92466900-1489376879.jpg

post-167554-0-92466900-1489376879.jpg

Posted

Would u mind measuring from the back of the front wheel well to the center of the first step, give measurement, and then to the middle of the rear portion of the first step. I would like to compare with nfabs to see if they are further back. Thanks

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Rear of front well to mid first step ~23"

f2aa576e23313355c22ff36291d03ecb.jpg

Mid first step to passenger mid step ~44"

b94c7f3a32868690439ffda82349635f.jpg560efbe1d9e7803e92e18f200801e45a.jpg

Finally rear of front well to passenger mid step ~67"

d501e48844cfeb2d0da20e53970504eb.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Rear of front well to mid first step ~23"

f2aa576e23313355c22ff36291d03ecb.jpg

Mid first step to passenger mid step ~44"

b94c7f3a32868690439ffda82349635f.jpg560efbe1d9e7803e92e18f200801e45a.jpg

Finally rear of front well to passenger mid step ~67"

d501e48844cfeb2d0da20e53970504eb.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're my hero. Thanks going to compare numbers when I get off today.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted

You're my hero. Thanks going to compare numbers when I get off today.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Lol sounds good bud; glad to help

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Anyone with nfabs hoping these would work better mine with crew cab measures about the same in front. 22 1/2 front but rear were 64 1/2 in the rear. Hoping someone with rough country version might chime in .

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted

Anyone with nfabs hoping these would work better mine with crew cab measures about the same in front. 22 1/2 front but rear were 64 1/2 in the rear. Hoping someone with rough country version might chime in .

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Rough Country steps

Lift%20with%20steps.jpg

 

Rear of wheel well to middle of front step ~23"

20170314_180753.jpg

 

Wheel well to rear step ~65"

20170314_180814.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Rough Country steps

Lift%20with%20steps.jpg

 

Rear of wheel well to middle of front step ~23"

20170314_180753.jpg

 

Wheel well to rear step ~65"

20170314_180814.jpg

Thanks . Looks like they are all about the same. Got lucky with that request so anyone with the ironcross plus. They the same style but are somehow adjustable in position. Unfortunately I can't find any reviews on quality or videos to see how they adjust.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,724
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    No1UKnow
    Newest Member
    No1UKnow
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,225 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
    • 1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world.   We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...