Jump to content

Free Exhaust Mod!!

YQatari

By YQatari
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

seth7843 Enthusiast

seth7843

Posted
Posted

I just clamped mine open. I can finally hear my exhaust when idling! I love this mod. No more sewing machine sound from a 6.2l

  • Like 1
  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

iCryWheniGoPoop
iCryWheniGoPoop

Flapper valve warranty.....

iCryWheniGoPoop
iCryWheniGoPoop

Damn... I'm not sure the HP gain would be enough to counter the added weight, lol. Sure isn't going anywhere though.

Carder09
Carder09

The kinda free mod I used for my truck was a pipe cutter to remove the stock muffler. All we had at the time and then a turn down tip for $12.00 and epic exhaust lol.

Posted Images

BlackHawkZ71 Enthusiast

BlackHawkZ71

Posted
Posted

I do know the 17 chevys are a lot different with that flapper mine currently has a bolt through it (i had laying around) last time i checked? Not sure if its still there??

 

I decided to leave that flapper in place when i got my flowmaster put on ($160 muffler+welding) and res delete 

 

now I wish I would have had them cut the flapper off, truck is a lot better sounding and a little louder at idle,  drone isnt bad on the highway only when i am accelerating in V4 mode. 

SirenRed16 Senior Enthusiast

SirenRed16

Posted
Posted
I do know the 17 chevys are a lot different with that flapper mine currently has a bolt through it (i had laying around) last time i checked? Not sure if its still there??
 
I decided to leave that flapper in place when i got my flowmaster put on ($160 muffler+welding) and res delete 
 
now I wish I would have had them cut the flapper off, truck is a lot better sounding and a little louder at idle,  drone isnt bad on the highway only when i am accelerating in V4 mode. 
It's still not to late you can go back and have them remove it. If they are nice enough people they might not charge you .

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

BlackHawkZ71 Enthusiast

BlackHawkZ71

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, SirenRed16 said:

It's still not to late you can go back and have them remove it. If they are nice enough people they might not charge you .

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

Would be nice. But i had this setup for a long time i think since last November? Last time i tried to get them to clamp my res on in place of flowmaster to see what I thought vs paying money to have it welded then cutoff and flowmaster re welded if I didn’t like it.. they didn’t like the idea of clamps

SirenRed16 Senior Enthusiast

SirenRed16

Posted
Posted
Would be nice. But i had this setup for a long time i think since last November? Last time i tried to get them to clamp my res on in place of flowmaster to see what I thought vs paying money to have it welded then cutoff and flowmaster re welded if I didn’t like it.. they didn’t like the idea of clamps
I see, when I got my exhaust done i removed flapper and resonator first time around. Only problem now is I want something louder.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Hunter11 Enthusiast

Hunter11

Posted
Posted

I had the flapper valve removed on my wife's 17 the first week we got it. The sound is a deeper tone that she is happy with. If you look at that valve in the pipe even in the open position it is still a big restriction in the system. 

  • 2 weeks later...
steve76t Enthusiast

steve76t

Posted
Posted

did they change the design of the flapper on the 17s?  I've see pics of others, such as on page one of this thread, that show a square looking cap tot the spring.  The one on my 17 Sierra Denali is round & can't figure out how others have "bolted" theirs open.  Any pics of the bolt location? 

SirenRed16 Senior Enthusiast

SirenRed16

Posted
Posted
did they change the design of the flapper on the 17s?  I've see pics of others, such as on page one of this thread, that show a square looking cap tot the spring.  The one on my 17 Sierra Denali is round & can't figure out how others have "bolted" theirs open.  Any pics of the bolt location? 
Yeah I believe they changed it a bit. On the 16 it was behind the muffler and on the 17 it's in front of the muffler.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

steve76t Enthusiast

steve76t

Posted
Posted (edited)

that's what I thought.  yes, mine is in front of the muffler.  I think I could use a wire to tie it off & keep it open.  However, with it in front of the muffler it may not make much difference.  My issue is that it does rattle a little bit, especially at idle.   

Edited by steve76t
Largely Unknown Enthusiast

Largely Unknown

Posted
Posted

Mine is round as well (2017 5.3, two weeks old).  I tried a little WD40 (helped a little, changed it from a screech to a chirp).  I'm curious how you remove it, since I assume there is a piece inside the pipe?  

 

I'm always in traffic, so its constantly sounding off, but I could live with it if I had to.  

Scuba78 Enthusiast

Scuba78

Posted
Posted

Mine Chirped bad, dealer replaced the entire exhaust with only 5k miles!  i tried to get them to swap it for my choice, but no go.. I will do a mod soon. curious if anyone has tried just getting rid of the resonator.

steve76t Enthusiast

steve76t

Posted
Posted
On 11/5/2017 at 9:59 AM, FAST380 said:

So does wiring open on the 17's help? This is the first I have read about it, might have to try. 

don't know if it'll help or not.  I'm thinking trying it just to see if there's any difference.

FAST380 Enthusiast

FAST380

Posted
Posted

I did mine. 2017 All Terrain with 6.2L. It was the square style after the muffler. Made a difference, a very little difference, but might be just enough for me. For the 2 minutes it took, it isn't worth trying to discribe, just do it and see what you think. Louder on downhill deceleration. Has a little rumble it never had before. Try it. 

z0_rick New Member

z0_rick

Posted
Posted

I did mine about a week ago.  For free it's worth it. It's a little more bass. Not very noticeable.  Sounds more alive. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • davester
      Tranmission stays in Low

      By davester · Posted

      get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • asilverblazer
      OCI, not when but why?

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • asilverblazer
      Stabilitrak conversion to Z71

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
    • PunchT37
      Oil Consumption

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world.   We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...