Jump to content

Foglights On With High Beams

Spurshot
 Share

Recommended Posts

TX LIMO Enthusiast

TX LIMO

Posted
Posted
Does anyone have a few extra Diodes?

Wish I did. I sent all mine out awhile back. I think someone ordered 50 from Amazon about a month or so ago.


Delivered via my cellular device using a mobile chat forum thingy.
  • Like 1
  • Replies 796
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Spurshot
Spurshot

2014 SIERRA SLT FOG LIGHTS WITH HIGH BEAM HEADLIGHTS MODIFICATION This mod will let you use the fog lights on low beam same as factory. On and off with the fog light button. When the fog ligh

Spurshot
Spurshot

This was on the Duramax forum. I believe it is for a GMT 900. But the principles are likely applicable to a K2. Use this information cautiously. ------------------------------------------------------

Spurshot
Spurshot

OK, After struggling thru the schematics and online mods of past models all evening, I figured it out. This is for a Sierra and should be the same for the Silverado. It involves pushing one Diode in

Posted Images

PTP Enthusiast

PTP

Posted
Posted
On 8/27/2018 at 10:24 AM, Racindave said:

Needle nose pliers are helpful

Just did this mod. Thanks for the input!  

  • Like 2
TX LIMO Enthusiast

TX LIMO

Posted
Posted
Should i disconnect the battery before i do the 10/22 mod

I didn’t. It’s not really doing anything as long as the vehicle is shut off. There shouldn’t be any power to the plugs when it’s off.


Delivered via my cellular device using a mobile chat forum thingy.
Darmichar Enthusiast

Darmichar

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 8/21/2018 at 2:02 PM, pgamboa said:


856edf1902013facb37e3bdf1d1a932f.jpg Yes - good for 2014-2018



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pretty sure I already know the answer but wanted to be sure, does the Cargo Lamp/Reverse turn the cargo's on with the reverse lights?  I upgraded them all to LED's tonight and would like them all to come on when I go into reverse and unlock the truck.

 

*EDIT* Just noticed the diode hidden in the grey plug.  Is that one for the puddle lights?

Edited by Darmichar
  • Like 1
Darmichar Enthusiast

Darmichar

Posted
Posted
On 9/4/2018 at 8:31 PM, Silverado1475 said:

Should i disconnect the battery before i do the 10/22 mod

I've done the 10/22 twice, once on my 2014 and once on my 2018 without disconnecting the battery.  No issues whatsoever.

  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
Pretty sure I already know the answer but wanted to be sure, does the Cargo Lamp/Reverse turn the cargo's on with the reverse lights?  I upgraded them all to LED's tonight and would like them all to come on when I go into reverse and unlock the truck.
 
*EDIT* Just noticed the diode hidden in the grey plug.  Is that one for the puddle lights?

Yes. That’s the diode to have he puddle lights follow the dome light. For 2014 trucks and some early 2015, this is needed for those with DL8 mirrors that upgrade to DL3 Mirrors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Michaelmouse1998 New Member

Michaelmouse1998

Posted
Posted

You need to be careful where you live some places it is illigal to run hi beams and fog lamps. It also help officers if they know cars/trucks that if the fog lamps are on odds are your lo beams are too!

  • 2 weeks later...
restorick2378 Enthusiast

restorick2378

Posted
Posted
On 8/21/2018 at 2:02 PM, pgamboa said:


856edf1902013facb37e3bdf1d1a932f.jpg Yes - good for 2014-2018



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Phil,

 

Any special trick getting the diode to stay in contact?  The leads on my diodes seem much thinner than the ones in your pic (1N4004).  Perhaps I have the wrong ones?

 

Thanks,

Rick

  • Like 1
Ravenkeeper Senior Enthusiast

Ravenkeeper

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, restorick2378 said:

Phil,

 

Any special trick getting the diode to stay in contact?  The leads on my diodes seem much thinner than the ones in your pic (1N4004).  Perhaps I have the wrong ones?

 

Thanks,

Rick

OH, trust me, they are all thin leads like that.  I used my smallest jewelers screwdriver/awl to make room for the leads to go in.  You will notice that mine was not as tight as Phil’s.  My fogs were set to go ON with HIGHs.  My picture is from my ‘15 that was totaled back in July.5b0ddc413c951_3ModsonChevyBCM.thumb.jpg.ade8adb12e10513e8956441071ed673e.jpg

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
Phil,
 
Any special trick getting the diode to stay in contact?  The leads on my diodes seem much thinner than the ones in your pic (1N4004).  Perhaps I have the wrong ones?
 
Thanks,
Rick

They are thin and flimsy. For the cargo/reverse, I found that trimming the lead slightly and JE. 90° bend ahead of time helps.

Also, try a different corner within the pin slot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
PTP Enthusiast

PTP

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 8/21/2018 at 3:02 PM, pgamboa said:


856edf1902013facb37e3bdf1d1a932f.jpg Yes - good for 2014-2018



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will the cargo Lamps and upper light also go on when u unlock the truck as well with this mod?  Also What mod is the one u got in the gray one?

 

Thanks

Edited by PTP
  • Like 1
Ravenkeeper Senior Enthusiast

Ravenkeeper

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, PTP said:

Will the cargo Lamps and upper light also go on when u unlock the truck as well with this mod?  Also What mod is the one u got in the gray one?

 

Thanks

If you put the cargo light to come on with the reverse lights, unlock has nothing to do with them, unless you have the settings on the truck set to do so.  BUT, the diodes are one way, so if your cargo lights usually come on when you unlock/open the doors, reverse lights will not come on.

 

I had the same mods done on my ‘15, fogs ON with highs, cargos ON with reverse, and puddles ON with doors/interiors.  Grey mod is puddle lights ON when doors are open.  With the diode installed on GRY1 & GRY8, if you turn ON the interior lights, the puddles will light up, but not with individual map lights.  Found out that on my ‘18, I don’t need to do this mod.  I’m going to do the fogs/highs & cargo/reverse mods tomorrow.  I have a third diode, not sure what I want to do with it, yet.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...