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Guys with Trucks are better.


SnakeEyeSS

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Posted

Some people are really vain. I don't have time for this. I have to go out and get some bigger tires and a lift after reading this. Maybe one of those big ass bumpers with a wench on it.

 

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Posted

This is a great commercial, thanks for posting this. The part where the guy with a beard shakes his hand and his reaction is priceless.

 

"He's driving a 4 door truck, that says it all"

 

Edit- Here's a good old ford vs chev commercial from back in the day:

 

 

Posted

Aerodynamic eh? I prefer the format of the new ford commercials, for those of you who haven't seen the Ferd Fteenthousand commercial:

 

 

Posted

Lol I don't care what anyone says, that twin I-beam suspension on those old fords is complete trash.

 

I had a '66 Ferd 3/4 ton with a 240 ci inline 6 with 4 speed . As a matter of fact I had it twice. Sold it to an uncle, and then bought it back a couple years later. In granny gear that thing could have pulled a house. Pulled a lot of full silage wagons 'round the farm. That really was a good truck, and you are wrong about the Twin I-Beam being complete trash!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some parts were missing.

Posted

That Twin-I beam suspension was tough, but it was a crappy way to keep control of the wheels. Most of the bad rep comes from worn out ones. The king pins would wear out and the bushings in everything would get bad, then the truck would wander all over the road. Steering became "a suggestion". When they were all rebuilt and tightened up, they were ok. Nothing like a double wishbone, rack and pinion though.

Posted

I don't like them because the geometry is screwed up unless the front end is sitting at exactly the right height. Seems like no matter what the camber is way off. And at higher extension or compression some funky things happen.

Posted

Hmmm......I never had any issues with my '85 F250 with twin I-Beam suspension, 128 K miles and not even an alignment. BTW, after 30 years it's time to let it go, it will be a Christmas gift for my granddaughter for commuting to school.

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Posted

My friend has 3 80-82 f250/f150's one of them has over 800,000 miles he has never had frame issues [emoji32]

Posted

Hmmm......I never had any issues with my '85 F250 with twin I-Beam suspension, 128 K miles and not even an alignment. BTW, after 30 years it's time to let it go, it will be a Christmas gift for my granddaughter for commuting to school.

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Nice truck if you lived closer Id try to talk you out off that one.....Im having flashbacks.

Posted

Hmmm......I never had any issues with my '85 F250 with twin I-Beam suspension, 128 K miles and not even an alignment. BTW, after 30 years it's time to let it go, it will be a Christmas gift for my granddaughter for commuting to school.

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I hate you southwest folks and your nice old stuff that doesn't rust. :lol:

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    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
    • That's good to know, but I don't think I'll even be running them under 45 in the rear  unless it's on the sand or something but will only be for a short distance anyways!    I didn't read all the instructions in the booklet yet, but do you know let's say I set the rear psi on the placard to 45, will the warning light come on soon as it drops under 45 or is there a percentage it has to drop from the set value before the warning light is triggered?
    • That's bad.  Like, its probably destroying the stub axle the CV slides into.   Do you have a proper lift installed with differential lowering brackets?  Did you install AT4/Trail Boss factory CV axles?  
    • Hot? New Jersey? Today? I was working on my old 2000 Silverado 1500 today. Believe me, it was boiling hot today. As it has been.
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