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Posted

Mine just showed up VIA FedEx, super fast shipping and a nice looking product. I called around, most places wanted around a $100 to change them and another $45 for a alignment. Having them installed Wednesday at 2:30.. Thanks to this forum I got a better price than I first anticipated, I hope its worth $$$ West Virginia is good testing grounds so Ill do a little write-up after.. Thanks Again

$100 for install and $45 alignment is a hell of a deal

btw, mine came in yesterday, but i dont have time to do anything with it yet.
Posted

I am getting mine installed on Monday by the dealer. Anything else I need to look out for other than boot down on the back? Can you get away with just a front end alignment?

  • Like 1
Posted

I am getting mine installed on Monday by the dealer. Anything else I need to look out for other than boot down on the back? Can you get away with just a front end alignment?

You got it...boot down for the back and my dealer recommended a front end alignment (I installed the rear and dealer installed the front).

Posted

May I asked what your dealer charged for the install and alignment?

 

Thank you

$300

Posted (edited)

Well I got them installed today. And to be honest... it was a $650 dollar mistake on my part. I should have never messed with what I had. The new shocks may handle the bad bumps maybe a little better... but defiantly not worth the cost. Actually seems like everything else may be a little harsher, but the bad bumps..

 

A side note.. they did have keep my 2in level installed. Something about the top bolts were cut when the level was installed a year ago. Anyway... instead of removing the level, and extending the shocks out to max 1.8 in.... they left the level in place and keep the shocks at the "factory" stock adjustment..... no extension.

Not sure which way would give the best ride.. as I have heard extending the shocks to max 1.8in can also make for a a harsh ride.

 

Anyway.. the whole deal was a waste of 4+ hours and $650 bucks.. in my opinion....

Edited by GMC-AT
Posted

Well I got them installed today. And to be honest... it was a $650 dollar mistake on my part. I should have never messed with what I had. The new shocks may handle the bad bumps maybe a little better... but defiantly not. Actually seems like everything else may be a little harsher.

 

A side note.. they did have keep my 2in level installed. Something about the top bolts were cut when the level was installed a year ago. Anyway... instead of removing the level, and extending the shocks out to max 1.8 in.... they left the level in place and keep the shocks at the "factory" stock adjustment..... no extension.

Not sure which way would give the best ride.. as I have heard extending the shocks to max 1.8in can also make for a a harsh ride.

 

Anyway.. the whole deal was a waste of 4+ hours and $650 bucks.. in my option....

Damn sorry to hear that man. I would imagine the level on there is the culprit to some of the dislike. I'm just guessing though as I don't have either installed on mine.

 

 

-Skeet

Posted

Yes, I'm sure the level isn't helping ... but is the level ( with shocks set at stock height) a lot worse than having NO level and the shocks fully extended?? that's the million dollar question...

Posted

GMC-AT - if you had factory Ranchos then it may not be that much of a improvement. I changed my rear shocks over to the Bilsteins Saturday at around 13600 miles, HUGE Improvement!! If the fronts have that much of a effect than to me its gonna be well worth the money spent. My truck had the plain black shocks and one (left Rear) extended slower than right rear but both still functioned properly as far as I could tell. I put SkyJackers on my 08 Silverado and it was one of the best upgrades I made to that truck. Guys, shop around, local tire shops or body shops can do this cheaper than the Stealerships can. Check out this video, it explains a lot about this subject.

 

Posted

These shocks have been explained many times on this forum so maybe I'm just dense, but I don't see how their method of changing the spring seat location is really any different that using a spring pre-load spacer? It seems that it is doing the exact same thing once you raise it above the stock setting, its just doing it from the bottom instead of the top.

Posted (edited)

These shocks have been explained many times on this forum so maybe I'm just dense, but I don't see how their method of changing the spring seat location is really any different that using a spring pre-load spacer? It seems that it is doing the exact same thing once you raise it above the stock setting, its just doing it from the bottom instead of the top.

 

There is added stroke for the travel of the shock itself eliminating pre-load. Edited by henrypbui
Posted

I understand that they may compensate for the longer stroke of the higher setting, but I dont see how it is possible that moving the spring seat up wouldn't be adding pre-load. I'm not saying your wrong, I just dont see how its possible. Moving the spring seat up has to compress the spring (unless I'm missing something) which is pre-load as I understand it.

Posted (edited)

There is more travel for the piston to go up to compensate for the lost travel of moving up the spring perch. It does not preload the springs since the piston itself extends that much more out, and the only "pre-load" would be from the weight of the truck itself.

Edited by henrypbui
Posted

Ok I went back and looked at them closer and I get it now, I was looking at it from the wrong perspective.

 

So when folks complain about the stiffer ride at the top setting, this is being caused by the increased angles which decreases the leverage on the suspension, correct?

Posted

That would have to do with the valving of the strut itself. Without it being adjustable, unless if Bilstein optimized the valving for that height setting, it will suffer a slight bit from where their optimal height would be. I would have to guess it is set at the OEM height.

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