Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yep, I get it. Mine is a Silverado LTZ, but just bounced a lot. Much more controlled now. I don't even have to slow down at railroad crossing any more. Wife used to say the truck bounced so much that it made her feel like a "bobble head". No more...much more smooth and controlled.

Did the rear install myself. Dealer installed my fronts and aligned for $300.

 

Thanks man.

 

Funny you mentioned railroad crossing. I went over a railroad crossing in the 2015 loaner and compared it to my 2014 this morning, and it was way rougher going over it with my 2014.

 

They definitely changed up the valving or something on the All Terrain shocks from 2014 to 2015. Both trucks are nearly identical. The 2015 is a crew cab though, my truck is a double cab. But both have all-terrain Z71, 20" wheels/tires, same air pressures too.

 

Looking forward to the Bilsteins for sure.

Posted

I had set of the 5100s installed on my 2010 Sierra ext cab with preload set at one down from the top setting lifted front up think about 3/4". Just my opinion it really lost any ride quality very rough any bumps the front suspension did not react at all just pounded the front. Another $300 had the spring settings set at the factory preload another alinement rode much better suspension working as designed smooth. Guess i felt dumb paying hundreds of dollars and having the truck just pound it self to pieces because the front springs were preloaded to much. I now have a 2014 would never do the lift thing again.

Posted (edited)

I had set of the 5100s installed on my 2010 Sierra ext cab with preload set at one down from the top setting lifted front up think about 3/4". Just my opinion it really lost any ride quality very rough any bumps the front suspension did not react at all just pounded the front. Another $300 had the spring settings set at the factory preload another alinement rode much better suspension working as designed smooth. Guess i felt dumb paying hundreds of dollars and having the truck just pound it self to pieces because the front springs were preloaded to much. I now have a 2014 would never do the lift thing again.

 

Yea, I don't plan on lifting the front end. Gonna put the shocks at the factory height settings.

 

Lmao, you'll laugh, but I went with the 5100 over the 4600 because of the color of the shocks. I thought the blue/yellow of the 4600's was an eye sore compared to the 5100's black/silver.

Edited by fondupot
Posted (edited)

Yea, I don't plan on lifting the front end. Gonna put the shocks at the factory height settings.

 

Lmao, you'll laugh, but I went with the 5100 over the 4600 because of the color of the shocks. I thought the blue/yellow of the 4600's was an eye sore compared to the 5100's black/silver.

I wanted the 4600's, but they weren't out yet, so Bilstein recommended 5100 for same price at the time. My 5100's are at stock ride height too.

I agree, The silver is kinda snappy with the black boot on the back installed downward.

Edited by chuckl1218
Posted

So, the ride quality is the same between the 4600 and the 5100? I have a 2015 crew cab with the Ranchos and I hate how bouncy they are. I don't want to change stance, just want to improve the ride quality.

Posted

So, the ride quality is the same between the 4600 and the 5100? I have a 2015 crew cab with the Ranchos and I hate how bouncy they are. I don't want to change stance, just want to improve the ride quality.

From what I have read about them. Yes they are basically the same exact shocks. The 5100's just have the option to adjust the spring perch to give front end lift.

  • Like 1
Posted

Bilstein actually reccomends not using the 5100's at the factory settings, well at least that's what they told me when I called them. I'm sure it doesn't make that much of a difference though, that factory ride isn't hard to beat. I was going to leave mine at stock until they reccomends otherwise. The silver def looks a lot better than the blue and yellow though.

Posted

From what I have read about them. Yes they are basically the same exact shocks. The 5100's just have the option to adjust the spring perch to give front end lift.

 

Yep, that's what I was told by Bilstein and Allshocks.com (where I bought mine from)...

Posted

wb2yw5.jpg

 

More Pichers!! I'll be trying to get mine installed Wed or Thurs.

Posted

Local Gateway tire quoted me at 203$ to install all four shocks and align it. Seems incredibly cheap.

Posted

Local Gateway tire quoted me at 203$ to install all four shocks and align it. Seems incredibly cheap.

Use caution on the alignment....after reading about the steering wheel angle sensor alignment requirement (for the electric power steering to correct for road crowns) I started asking local shops if they had the ability to do that procedure. In every case I was told no. So I ended up at the dealer.

Posted

Then i'll be going to hefner motors in batesville, they're a dealer. Quoted me 300$. Can also ask about the windsheild. Which has a 12" crack on it.

Posted

Gotta take measurements when I get home. Here it is though 414$ and 3 hours later.

7bf1f998cd9e1bf371f211c1b8d410e2.jpg0cdb9279f07825d84efee85839aaf718.jpg

Posted

Just had the 5100s installed yesterday. Went with one click down from max height setting on the front. Ride is MUCH improved over the crappy stock Ranchos. I feel like it hits the potholes, railroad tracks, etc with less bouncing in the seat compared to the stock Ranchos. Just feels tighter and more controlled on the road, with still being smoother than the Ranchos. Very happy with the outcome.

 

Got a great deal at streetsideauto for $308 shipped. Paid $400 for installation of all 4 plus the alignment - a bit higher than some on the forum but it's a local guy that I've had work on my cars for years and I trust his work.

 

I'm now sitting at 38" front wheel well to ground, and 39.5" rear. Looks way better IMO.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...