Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

You buy by supplement harness and follow my video.



PM me to order.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok. Watched the video and took out my fuse block. I have the violet/white wire in that location. See picture. Should that mean that the connector underneath is hot?54901ffda9b8511b7643035176bd592d.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Just got mine installed.  Heat works, but the light won't come on.  At this point, I cant tell if the switch works, but the light doesn't or that the heat is always on.  Going to let it cool down for an hour or so, start it up and NOT push the button to see what happens.   Any suggestions?

Edited by Pope
Posted

Figured it out.  Anyone familiar with Garage Logic?  Radio show in Twin Cities MN.  50/50/90 rule.  If you have a 50/50 shot at getting it right, 90% of the time you'll be wrong.  Pictured a few posts back was my exact plug setups, but the plugs do fit, just in the opposite polarity.  Current goes through the heating element first, then stops at the switch.  Switch doesn't' do anything as expected.  I pulled the wires out and switched them.  Bingo!  Taped it up and working great!

  • Like 1
Posted

I got this in the mail today. Now just have to wait for the clock spring to get here.

414d8179b0d0b78b343fcd92910b5b88.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I just checked my connector and it is hot. looks like I will be ordering the wheel and clock spring.

Posted

Got the steering wheel installed and works great. Wasn’t at first, then I checked the fuse in the fuse block and it was blown. Might have done that when I was checking to see if the connector was hot. Anyway, replaced the 7.5 fuse with a 10 since I don’t have any. Will get the 7.5 ordered.

Thanks Phil and everyone else for the help.

BTW, that airbag connector really is a PITA to get in and out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Anyone know if the heated steering wheel from a 2019 would work in the 2018 Silverado! Just a thought, I like the look of the new steering wheel a lot better.
f937f9a2e2a3a4349ac5825b19cdf1e9.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I got my heated wheel installed with a new clock spring. every thing works but the heat part. i have the connector under the dash and there is a 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse box says its for the heated wheel. I see everything on this form to run a wire if you don't have the connection but i have the connection and a fuse in the panel,   not sure where to go from here. this job was easy until trying to get my old fat hands under the dash.  I have a 2016 Silverado LT 1500 double cab 4x4

Edited by DES2016LT
Posted
I got my heated wheel installed with a new clock spring. every thing works but the heat part. i have the connector under the dash and there is a 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse box says its for the heated wheel. I see everything on this form to run a wire if you don't have the connection but i have the connection and a fuse in the panel,   not sure where to go from here. this job was easy until trying to get my old fat hands under the dash. 

Your missing a wiring run in between. This is what you need.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)

what kind of joke is GM pulling?  i pulled the fuse panel out and if i'm looking at it right there is no wire on the connector  but i have the connector to plug the wire from the new clock spring. 

Edited by DES2016LT
Posted (edited)

ok,  so how do i get the little wiring harness? probably be easier than trying to figure out where the wire is on my connection under the dash.  

Edited by DES2016LT
Posted

When GM built the Instrument Panel harnesses, they only built a small # harness part #s. Some of these variations will have the fuse block, fuse block, and part of the wiring. There is a junction connection up in the dash and you’re likely missing that wire from the connector to the fuse panel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

you are right i just looked there is another junction. i saw a purple wire going in but didn't see one coming out. i wonder if i could buy that wire with the terminals and just push them in that connection and the fuse block. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,677 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...