Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
21 minutes ago, Nitrousbird said:

Just one of many things these trucks don't have that they should.  Things like blind spot monitor, push-button start, auto-leveling rear suspension (older GM stuff had it), radar cruise and HUD. 

True on that! Wished they would keep that Dynamic fuel management stuff, and exchange that for giving us Auto dimming mirrors, blind spot, heated S/wheel and seats, Stuff that we rather have, and more useful things. I didn’t buy the truck for fuel economy. 

Posted
3 minutes ago, Nitrousbird said:

I am mentioning things that aren't available at all but should be, since it is well established tech that has been available for a decade.  You are mentioning items that are available but you chose not to purchase a truck optioned with those items.

Maybe, but 60-70 Damn grand for a half ton, stripped down ugly crap is bull. For that price it should come with everything. 

Posted
3 minutes ago, SmittyzZ71 said:

Maybe, but 60-70 Damn grand for a half ton, stripped down ugly crap is bull. For that price it should come with everything. 

You are over paying.  My SLT is about as loaded as you can get (CC, 4WD, Sunroof, Premium Plus, Z71, 6.2L, paint option, floor liners) and I paid $44,055 out the door before tax, brand spanking new.  Had I waited until now, I could have got a Denali Ultimate for about $3500 more - I just didn't know they were going to give such good Denali deals in December when I bought mine. 

Posted
4 minutes ago, Nitrousbird said:

You are over paying.  My SLT is about as loaded as you can get (CC, 4WD, Sunroof, Premium Plus, Z71, 6.2L, paint option, floor liners) and I paid $44,055 out the door before tax, brand spanking new.  Had I waited until now, I could have got a Denali Ultimate for about $3500 more - I just didn't know they were going to give such good Denali deals in December when I bought mine. 

Well that’s great, December is the best month to buy, they’re trying their best to push them out the door.  I didn’t I paid that, nor would I. Actually I was referring to the price of a loaded new one. You say you have all this stuff already. People like me use this website info & help to add some of this stuff after the fact, those of us whom didn’t buy all that.Those whom bought a lower trim level and wish to pick and choose what options we wish to add, And thanks to people in this forum, we now have them, and not paying finance charges on them for 80+ months. lol 

Posted (edited)

Uh oh, I think I bought the wrong wheel. Can anyone advise on this? I got it hooked up. The heated wheel works but the right and left switches do not light up. I have a BW Dic so not sure if the right side switches work. I was too tired to test the cruise control to see if that still works; I'll check it tomorrow.

 

The first pic is the connector from my origional non heated, no swc wheel.  The second pic is of the new wheel I purchased from Ebay, part #84222916  I used clock spring part # 23381964. I have a 2015 GMC Sierra WT SCLB.

 

Would it be a bad idea to move the grey wire with the orange tracer over one pin spot to the left? Would the missing wire to the cluster provide power for the lights?

IMG_20181229_203732340.jpg

IMG_20181229_204456575_HDR.jpg

Edited by ford5of5
Posted

I plan on installing heated steering wheel I do have the plug that has been mentioned that is sometimes hot  and sometimes not I haven't  tested it yet to see. But let's say  that it's not hot then where  does the other end  go? In short the new clock spring can't be plugged into it and find the other end and pin it to the correct position? Or would it be easier to have a new 2 wire harness made by pagoda? And pin it to the excellent  pics and videos made from this forum? I did try finding the info I am looking for and may have over looked it. I sorry hope I'm not beating a dead horse. Again I have the plug but if it's not hot can I make it hot or not worth the time and effort and just go with the new harness by pagoda?

Posted
Sorry to pgamboa  meant no disrespect .

LOL all good :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

If your mate plug is not hot (truck must be running), then there is a missing short run from an in between connector to the fuse panel. At that point, Better to get my harness as getting to that connector in between is a bear.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks , I will do that once I get the amp boards on should be done with that tomorrow, then if it's not hot I will get the harness from you. 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, pgamboa said:

If your mate plug is not hot (truck must be running), then there is a missing short run from an in between connector to the fuse panel. At that point, Better to get my harness as getting to that connector in between is a bear.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

From experience, it's not impossible but is kinda a PITA to run that wire between the fuse block and the block underneath the steering column

  • Like 1
Posted
From experience, it's not impossible but is kinda a PITA to run that wire between the fuse block and the block underneath the steering column

Yup. Even with a complete dash take off, on the floor, that 42-pin connector is a PITA to get to. I couldn’t imagine getting to it while in the truck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I don't want to assume so I will ask if I am buying the right heated steering wheel w/o crash alert Black PN 84353110 and clock spring PN 23381964? and also a question regarding the orange tab on the clock spring. what is it for and once you remove it , if you had to take the spring back off from some reason does is make for harder reinstallment? I know that's 2 questions.

Posted

Trying to find on forums and YouTube but haven't come across  info that seem relivent to my application  . I like the great video on you tube on how to install the heated steering wheel very helpful and to the point but when he hooks up the driver air bag there is only 1 plug I believe his truck is a 2015 and the clock spring  23381964 says it fits 2014-2017 but shows 2 plugs  going into the air bag. So without taking  my wheel off to find out  if I I have 1 or 2 plugs going into my air bag  did anyone else ask themselves this same question? Do you only need to hook up 1 if you only have 1 and let the other just hang there?

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,739
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    chfkief
    Newest Member
    chfkief
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,603 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Fred was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young pullets, and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. Fred's favourite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To Fred's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. Fred was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the City Show and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully in the next election, you can't always hear the bells.
    • Can someone confirm if the GM order workbench terminal is able to validate a custom build sequence:   1) Initialize the Allocation Base: Open a new vehicle build queue, select the 2026 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD, and pick the High Country (3LZ Preferred Equipment Group).   2) Select the Diesel Powertrain: Go directly to the engine configuration screen and choose RPO code LZ0 (3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel). Ensure it maps to the MHS 10-speed automatic transmission.   3) Deploy the Seating Swap: Navigate to the Interior Options screen and enter RPO code ATT to replace the standard captain's chairs with the power-release 60/40 bench seat. Because you are not trying to force a separate luxury or air-suspension bundle, the standard, premium D07 Fixed Floor Console remains active. The system will accept this change immediately without triggering a warning message.   3)Apply Heavy-Duty Hauling Capability: Input RPO code NHT (Max Trailering Package). The commercial terminal will automatically bundle the required trailering hardware and software modules to support the diesel engine's maximum towing capacity.   5) Layer the Premium Tech and Glass: Separately add code C3U (Panoramic Power Sunroof) and code UKL (Super Cruise) to the order screen.   6) Run the Final Validation: Click the "Validate Order" button at the bottom of the interface.
    • Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
    • Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...