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So I started the debadging process and need some info on adhesive rem


Slo281

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Posted

eraser wheel is pricey but is worth every penny. it turned a 2 hour job (side moldings) into a 30 minute job with no signs that the molding or eraser wheel was ever there.

 

EDIT: not to mention your thumb(s) will thank you!

Got quoted 75 to remove with the rubber wheel from a body shop the guy mentioned trying above. Considering the eraser wheel and doing it myself but hate to turn a 75 $ job into 300 or so if I jack up the paint. I've got til Monday to decide

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Posted

Hit the auto parts store and buy the wheel. It will chock right in to your drill. You don't need any adhesive removers, just the wheel. It will not hurt your paint unless you act like a maniac with it. I think I paid $35 for mine at oreillys. Prior to purchasing the wheel I tried everything and getting off the large emblem tape on the tailgate was a pita.

Posted

Hit the auto parts store and buy the wheel. It will chock right in to your drill. You don't need any adhesive removers, just the wheel. It will not hurt your paint unless you act like a maniac with it. I think I paid $35 for mine at oreillys. Prior to purchasing the wheel I tried everything and getting off the large emblem tape on the tailgate was a pita.

35 sounds so much better than 75. Man I think I'll pick one up tmrw and hope all goes well.

Posted

35 sounds so much better than 75. Man I think I'll pick one up tmrw and hope all goes well.

You won't have a single problem. Only happiness, and the urge to debadge everything!. :thumbs:

Posted

Hey I am in the same boat. I had a detail guy remove the letters and rear emblem and he nicked the paint. I was on the fence about the emblem so I am thinking of getting the 3M eraser wheel and clean up the mess and re-apply the emblem.

Are you using a electric drill or air tools for the wheel" I have adequate air and air tools but not sure what rpm the wheel is meant to be used at... More than likely no body is open today to pick one up anyways.

Posted

Hey I am in the same boat. I had a detail guy remove the letters and rear emblem and he nicked the paint. I was on the fence about the emblem so I am thinking of getting the 3M eraser wheel and clean up the mess and re-apply the emblem.

Are you using a electric drill or air tools for the wheel" I have adequate air and air tools but not sure what rpm the wheel is meant to be used at... More than likely no body is open today to pick one up anyways.

I'm using an electric drill but that's just cause it's all I have. The wheels can be used at any speed below 4000 RPM.

Posted

Hey I am in the same boat. I had a detail guy remove the letters and rear emblem and he nicked the paint. I was on the fence about the emblem so I am thinking of getting the 3M eraser wheel and clean up the mess and re-apply the emblem.

Are you using a electric drill or air tools for the wheel" I have adequate air and air tools but not sure what rpm the wheel is meant to be used at... More than likely no body is open today to pick one up anyways.

All the videos I've seen are using an electric drill. I'm sure air wouldn't hurt either but a drill should be good enough.

Posted

i use kerosene, it doesnt ruin paint, non corrosive, oil based.

i started using it for cleaning my motorcycle bike chain because it does not hurt the rubber O rings in the chain, then noticed it gets all the gunk off the fairings (road tar ect) and ever since ive used it to remove any sort of glue.

after, just clean with soap and water.

Posted

Thanks, I was looking for someone to give me an rpm number. My air tools go to 20,000 so maybe I try electrice drill first!!! Thanks

Posted

Did GM finally stop using holes in the sheet metal and alignment pins on the emblems? My 07 Avalanche had holes under chevy logo on the tailgate!

Posted

On my 02 Silverado I had not holes behind any emblems or side molding. im pretty sure the gmt 900's are the same, no holes. I have taken off my front z71 emblem and side moldings on my truck and I have no alignment holes. I think ford is the only one who still uses those stupid alignment holes for ~all of their badges.

Posted

Squirt some Goof off or goo gone on a rag at get after it. It's 4 bucks for a little can of it. It cuts through tar and glue and any oil based stuff. It'll melt plastic though so be careful. Doesn't hurt the paint as long as it doesn't sit there on the paint for 10 min.

Posted

I've tried goo gone, WD-40, etc. it was still a pain. OP, I use an electric drill at low speeds and you only have to apply enough pressure necessary to hold the wheel in place. It's a bit scary at first but you'll quickly see how simple and safe it is.

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