Jump to content

Possible Blown Engine with less the 2,000 miles.


manlystanley

Recommended Posts

Posted

I think you need to worry about getting the vehicle fixed and not get on "get something for free" bandwagon.

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I think you need to worry about getting the vehicle fixed and not get on "get something for free" bandwagon.

 

Gee, that's what I thought I was doing. Let, me put it this way:

 

-- I've got 5 kids, a stay at home wife, a full time job and a part time bussiness that I work nights and weekends.

 

-- I started out with a $2,000 old truck that I had to constantly work on. Gradually moved up to a more dependable truck.

 

-- Now, I'm excited that I finally have a full sized dependable truck that I don't need to worry about breaking down.

 

-- Had the truck for 6 weeks, only drove the thing to work and to another house I'm working on.

 

-- Now, it's been in the shop for going on a week, and I'm terrified that I've got a lemon on my hands that will be taking more time to get fixed then my other trucks. While, I'm paying off a huge loan.

 

-- years ago, I had a sedan, that I parked in front of my house. The house was on a 25 MPH residentatial street, but is used as a shot-cut. One night, some jerk lost control hit my front end and took off. teh insurance fixed it up "good as new". The result:

 

** in 4 years I went trhough 4 Power Steering pumps AND a new rack an pinion steering. It would have been cheeper to just total the car. I cann't afford to be in the shop all the time with this truck. Even if I get it's done for free.

 

-- Now, the dealer has gaven me a nice Impala to drive. But, I cann't fit: 2 x4's, dry wall sheets, nor load it up with stuff to take to the dump.

 

 

-- So, I don't want free stuff. I want what I paid for. When I first posted, I was looking for some pointers and questions to ask, as I just don't know engine internals. Since, all I have done is simple stuff on cars / trucks.

 

-- I'm afraid that the dealer will just patch me up and see what happens. I cann't afford that.

Posted

Are they giving you a rental? At least if it is serious, you will have 5 years and 100,000 miles to sort it out. Good Luck.

Posted

I'd like to give you some better advice, but without knowing what's actually going on inside the motor I'm at a loss. If it's something as simple as a lifter or rocker arm, no big deal and no damage done. If it's a shredded crank bearing that's thrown metal all over the engine, then yeah I'd be pulling for a new engine. And in that case you'll probably get one anyway without asking.

 

Regardless, just set your mind at ease. The ONLY part which we have any evidence of a problem is the engine itself. Shouldn't affect anything else on the truck at all. A bad crank bearing has no (forgive the pun) bearing on a leaky taillight down the road.

 

As for the "built on a Monday/Friday, rest of the truck will be junk to", absolutely doesn't hold any water whatsoever. Especially since this is the engine we are talking about and it was assembled in a different shop, by a different crew, at a different time.

Posted

 

Gee, that's what I thought I was doing. Let, me put it this way:

 

-- I've got 5 kids, a stay at home wife, a full time job and a part time bussiness that I work nights and weekends.

 

-- I started out with a $2,000 old truck that I had to constantly work on. Gradually moved up to a more dependable truck.

 

-- Now, I'm excited that I finally have a full sized dependable truck that I don't need to worry about breaking down.

 

-- Had the truck for 6 weeks, only drove the thing to work and to another house I'm working on.

 

-- Now, it's been in the shop for going on a week, and I'm terrified that I've got a lemon on my hands that will be taking more time to get fixed then my other trucks. While, I'm paying off a huge loan.

 

-- years ago, I had a sedan, that I parked in front of my house. The house was on a 25 MPH residentatial street, but is used as a shot-cut. One night, some jerk lost control hit my front end and took off. teh insurance fixed it up "good as new". The result:

 

** in 4 years I went trhough 4 Power Steering pumps AND a new rack an pinion steering. It would have been cheeper to just total the car. I cann't afford to be in the shop all the time with this truck. Even if I get it's done for free.

 

-- Now, the dealer has gaven me a nice Impala to drive. But, I cann't fit: 2 x4's, dry wall sheets, nor load it up with stuff to take to the dump.

 

 

-- So, I don't want free stuff. I want what I paid for. When I first posted, I was looking for some pointers and questions to ask, as I just don't know engine internals. Since, all I have done is simple stuff on cars / trucks.

 

-- I'm afraid that the dealer will just patch me up and see what happens. I cann't afford that.

Sounds pretty darned reasonable to me. These guys would be singing a different tune if it were their truck. Tell the dealership you need a truck for a loaner. You bought a truck, you need a truck, even if they have to take one off their used lot. GM needs to take care of that.

 

Any engine failure under 2000 miles, I would start negotiations by requesting a new truck. You can always settle for less, like a new motor with extended warranty. Just make it known that you are starting at requesting a new truck. Especially if you get the run around tomorrow, this could drag out for weeks.

 

Good luck, and I hope this all works out for you. You deserve what you paid for!

Posted

Sorry about your dilemma. Bdbake is giving you good points and advice. Nothing to add except about your loaner.

Did you tell them you need a truck for your work?

Posted

Take a deep breath and relax.

 

It's a piss-off, but it's also why we buy vehicles with warranty.

 

As bdbake posted, there isn't enough info yet to identify the problem. If everyone was having problems these engines it might be an issue, but they aren't.

 

The dealer wanting to have the most experienced 'engine internal' guy there for the tear-down makes me think they are being conscientious about getting it right. Maybe the senior tech will have a different diagnosis than the one you've been given - and they won't tear it down at all. Maybe the service manager suspects this and that's the reason they don't have someone else tearing it down. (again, I think that's a good thing).

 

I still cranks, so it's not seized. You didn't say it made loud noise when it quit, so it's not likely that something large has broken. It's still possible (probable?) that you initial idea that it is something relatively simple is correct.

 

If it turns out that the senior tech diagnoses that it is something major and needs to be tore down, don't be surprised if GM wants the engine back so they can tear it down themselves.

 

Patience in these things is almost always your friend.

Posted

Man sorry to hear about this. Without knowing whats wrong inside im not sure what I would do. If its in the lower end, rod/crank bearing. Its hard telling if there will be other issues with the metal from say a spun rod bearing passing through the oil passages too all the other components.

 

As far as a loaner, you bought a truck you should get a truck.

 

If the motor is toast as far as the lower end, I would ask for a brand new truck. A truck with only 2k getting a new engine, or rebuilt engine would not sit well with me. Having it completely torn apart and put together again, so many things have to be disconnected and reinstalled. Which honestly a motor swap isn't that bad, just the principle of the whole thing I guess would bother me with only 2000 miles.

 

Keep us updated, and good luck.

Posted

bdbake01, SteveBBB, redwngr, Slow3R, glc, Ventilator: Great Advice, thanks! I just needed some pointers on what to say when I talk to the service front end on Monday.

 

Let me ask one more question: I bought the truck at a dealer near my day job. But, since it broke down near my home, the tow truck took it to the dealer near my house. If this is really serious, should I consider bringing it to the dealer that I bought it from??

 

The dealer I bought it from was 'Autonation Chevy' and the dealer it is at now is Chriswell Chevy (a local dealer) if that is important. Both seem very competant and nice. But, I wonder if things are really serious, if having the truck at Autonation would be the best option??

 

 

Best regards,

Stan

Posted

Even if the motor is replaced, the replacement motor only has 12 months or 12,000 miles I believe. Otherwise it will be covered under the 5 year / 100,000 mile warranty. I had a 2001 Pontiac Formula that had loose pistons and rings. After a small battle GM replaced the motor with a new long block, I made out on the deal as the long block I got was the better aluminum block. I got the rest of the factory warranty (3yr / 36k) but this was at the 25k mile point so I got until 37k on the engine.

 

I wouldn't jump to anything yet until the official word comes in. Getting another new truck IMHO will be a no go, but I have seen GM make a payment and or offer the GMPP warranty as a courtesy if the customer asked for it.

Posted

I know it's stressful that an engine in a new truck is probably blown, but that doesn't mean you should get a new truck. If the truck didn't give you any other problems then keep it. Now if the truck just kept giving problems and some of it the same problem over and over and that can't seem to get fixed then I can understand requesting another truck. The only way that another engine having to be put in would hurt anything would maybe be the resale value, but it shouldn't since it was early on in the truck's life.

 

You're the first case I've heard where someone with a new K2 might need the engine replaced so it's not an actual problem across the board. So I think you just had some bad luck by getting an engine that happened to have a bad part installed.

 

Also I think it will take a little time for them to figure out what the problem is and the best fix. They will have to go back and forth with GM and will really be up to GM on how to fix it. It may not even need a whole new engine, maybe an internal part that was just bad and didn't hurt anything else. They may put a new engine in just to be on the safe side in case something else did get messed up so your best bet may just to have a whole new engine.

 

And I do know how you feel, not something major happening to a new truck but needing major work done. My 98 was on it's 3rd rear axle, 2nd trans and the 2nd engine seized up (all #s including the engine, trans and axle that came on it when I bought it in '04) when I decided to just get rid of it. It was all my fault though for the way I treated it.

Posted

Me owning a muscle car and original Engine is still with the car...I would want the same for my $50+ new truck. I want the original Engine that I paid for in the

 

truck I bought. I would want a new truck for that reason alone but would give the dealer a chance to fix it first. You should have a truck for a loaner till they get

 

this figured out regardless of the wait time. Talk with dealer with your needs and hold your ground firm. Good luck.

 

Sierra Boy

Posted

I'm gonna have to fourth, fifth, or maybe even sixth (I didn't count) the "truck for a truck" on this one. U need and deserve a truck loaner. Period.

 

FYI, GM picks up the tab for the loaner. Not the dealership. Under warranty issue of course.

Posted

Me owning a muscle car and original Engine is still with the car...I would want the same for my $50+ new truck. I want the original Engine that I paid for in the

 

truck I bought. I would want a new truck for that reason alone but would give the dealer a chance to fix it first. You should have a truck for a loaner till they get

 

this figured out regardless of the wait time. Talk with dealer with your needs and hold your ground firm. Good luck.

 

Sierra Boy

 

I love classic and modern muscle cars, but you can't compare a classic muscle car with a truck. #s matching engines and trans aren't as important in a truck, even a classic truck. In this situation I would prefer a whole new engine just in case nothing else got messed up. I would also keep the truck in his situation if the truck hadn't given him any other problems. Especially with a few of the problems that the K2s sometimes get like the vibration issue. What if the next truck he gets vibration issues that can't be fixed.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...