Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a RC 2.5 Level with the taller rear block and its kind of bothering me how my truck still has 1" of rake. Only I can notice it I'm sure but I was wondering if I could get a set of Bilstein's in the front to fix this? Besides going back and putting the stock block back in of course... Any advice to make it completely level?


Posted

 

I have a RC 2.5 Level with the taller rear block and its kind of bothering me how my truck still has 1" of rake. Only I can notice it I'm sure but I was wondering if I could get a set of Bilstein's in the front to fix this? Besides going back and putting the stock block back in of course... Any advice to make it completely level?

Because the Bilsteins are longer than the stock shocks, you would most likely get control arm to droop stop contact. Do you have the aluminum or steel suspension?

Posted

Because the Bilsteins are longer than the stock shocks, you would most likely get control arm to droop stop contact. Do you have the aluminum or steel suspension?

 

The control arms are steel if that answers your question. Not sure about anything else

Posted

 

I have a RC 2.5 Level with the taller rear block and its kind of bothering me how my truck still has 1" of rake. Only I can notice it I'm sure but I was wondering if I could get a set of Bilstein's in the front to fix this? Besides going back and putting the stock block back in of course... Any advice to make it completely level?

Are you suggesting adding more front height by doubling up on leveling with spacers and adjustable shocks? I have not read about anyone having success with this. A 1" rake, in my opinion is ideal. It is not noticeable and you can carry a light load without looking overloaded!

Posted

Are you suggesting adding more front height by doubling up on leveling with spacers and adjustable shocks? I have not read about anyone having success with this. A 1" rake, in my opinion is ideal. It is not noticeable and you can carry a light load without looking overloaded!

 

yeah that's what I was wondering. I'm just a perfectionist/ maybe some OCD. It's barely noticeable and I probably shouldn't have measured it lol. I'll get over it

Posted

I have the 5100's front and rear on my truck and I love the ride. Doing a zone 4.5 lift keeping the 5100's up front but bilstein does not offer a lifted shock for 2014-on 1500. 2013 1500 shows a part number and 2015-on 2500 also shows a lifted rear shock. What should I do??

Posted

The problem with adding 5100's to a spacer is that the 5100's are longer than stock shocks. So when you add a spacer, the shocks become even longer than stock, and the suspension has the ability to extend further down. You could get new UCA's that allow for more droop, but then you may overextend the tie rods and cv axels. If your running any sort of front diff drop bracket, it will help with the geometry, but in the end, 5100's with a spacer will still provide more droop than what the drop bracket is designed for.

 

My suggestion is to run 5100's alone, or with a smaller spacer than whatever came with any spacer kit you bought. Trucks with aluminum front suspension would be hard pressed to get even a 1" spacer in between the 5100 and the coil perch or lower CA before the uca contacts the droop stop on the frame (I tried it).

 

I'm going to try 5100's on the second setting (.75" lift) and either a .50" or .75" spacer below the shock. I think any more than that the cv's will be very unhappy when the suspension is fully extended. And yes, this will only be around 1.5" of lift, but I will have more droop travel over stock shocks and a spacer that gives a similar amount of lift. Function over form. I may go to a 1" spacer and new UCA's if this setup works out and the driveline geometry is too out of whack.

Posted

Hello all total newb here, I've been reading a lot lately and still can't decide what to do. I recently bought a new to me 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 that has a leveling kit and bigger rear block installed and having never had a leveled truck I'm not too crazy about the ride quality, it's got about 1" of rake which is just fit with me. I'm debating a couple things, 1) install bilstein 4600 shocks and leave the leveling kit on and hope it makes it a little better. Or 2) get bilstein 5100s for all 4 corners and remove the front kit all together. The truck also has ~33"X11" ko2's on some 18" kmc wheels. I do a considerable amount of off pavement driving as we go camping and hunting all summer and fall so I'm just looking for a little better ride. So I guess my real question is this, do bilstein 5100s ride "nicer" than a block leveling kit up front? I just don't really like the "jarring" when I got a pothole or bigger bump. Thanks for any input you guys can share

Posted

Hello all total newb here, I've been reading a lot lately and still can't decide what to do. I recently bought a new to me 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 that has a leveling kit and bigger rear block installed and having never had a leveled truck I'm not too crazy about the ride quality, it's got about 1" of rake which is just fit with me. I'm debating a couple things, 1) install bilstein 4600 shocks and leave the leveling kit on and hope it makes it a little better. Or 2) get bilstein 5100s for all 4 corners and remove the front kit all together. The truck also has ~33"X11" ko2's on some 18" kmc wheels. I do a considerable amount of off pavement driving as we go camping and hunting all summer and fall so I'm just looking for a little better ride. So I guess my real question is this, do bilstein 5100s ride "nicer" than a block leveling kit up front? I just don't really like the "jarring" when I got a pothole or bigger bump. Thanks for any input you guys can share

I installed the 5100s on all four corners on my 14 silverado Z71 and thought the ride was great. The highest setting leveled the truck perfectly. I went with the leveling shocks over the spacer kits so that the ride quality would be better.

Posted

I installed the 5100s on all four corners on my 14 silverado Z71 and thought the ride was great. The highest setting leveled the truck perfectly. I went with the leveling shocks over the spacer kits so that the ride quality would be better.

 

Thanks for the reply man, so you would think if I removed the front kit installed the 5100s all around with the fronts on the highest setting and kept the bigger rear block it would still keep a little rake and ride better?
Posted

Thanks for the reply man, so you would think if I removed the front kit installed the 5100s all around with the fronts on the highest setting and kept the bigger rear block it would still keep a little rake and ride better?

In my opinion, yes; however, I'm by no means an expert on this topic. You need to make sure the bigger rear block is within tolerances for the rear shocks. If I remember correctly you can use a block up to one inch taller than the stock block, but you'll need to confirm.

Posted (edited)

i have the rancho shocks and a rough country 2.5" level kit. if i put the bilsteins 5100 shocks in should i removed the level kit

From the research I did last year, I think you should remove it - at the least, the front spacer. I remember reading about a lot of folks trying to use the 5100s with a level kit and it didn't work well on the front end. I would not leave the front spacer on with the 5100s; though you may be able to leave the rear block (I'm assuming your level kit came with a replacement rear block since it's a 2.5). Others with more expertise and experience may be able to offer better guidance.

Edited by pcruis1
  • Like 1
Posted

Hello all total newb here, I've been reading a lot lately and still can't decide what to do. I recently bought a new to me 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 that has a leveling kit and bigger rear block installed and having never had a leveled truck I'm not too crazy about the ride quality, it's got about 1" of rake which is just fit with me. I'm debating a couple things, 1) install bilstein 4600 shocks and leave the leveling kit on and hope it makes it a little better. Or 2) get bilstein 5100s for all 4 corners and remove the front kit all together. The truck also has ~33"X11" ko2's on some 18" kmc wheels. I do a considerable amount of off pavement driving as we go camping and hunting all summer and fall so I'm just looking for a little better ride. So I guess my real question is this, do bilstein 5100s ride "nicer" than a block leveling kit up front? I just don't really like the "jarring" when I got a pothole or bigger bump. Thanks for any input you guys can share

the 33" LT tires are adding to the roughness you are experiencing. KO-2's are LT tires and I believe are an 8ply C load range or 10 ply E load range depending on size. Much firmer than the P metric tires that came on the 1500.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif
    • How wide are your rims?   Toyo specs 8.5-10.0-11.0 inches. My thought would be rim might be pulling the tire inwards creating a center that is more pronounced.    I also noticed that the spec sheet says max 65psi. So you could be right lowering the pressure to ~40 psi. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...