Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a RC 2.5 Level with the taller rear block and its kind of bothering me how my truck still has 1" of rake. Only I can notice it I'm sure but I was wondering if I could get a set of Bilstein's in the front to fix this? Besides going back and putting the stock block back in of course... Any advice to make it completely level?


Posted

 

I have a RC 2.5 Level with the taller rear block and its kind of bothering me how my truck still has 1" of rake. Only I can notice it I'm sure but I was wondering if I could get a set of Bilstein's in the front to fix this? Besides going back and putting the stock block back in of course... Any advice to make it completely level?

Because the Bilsteins are longer than the stock shocks, you would most likely get control arm to droop stop contact. Do you have the aluminum or steel suspension?

Posted

Because the Bilsteins are longer than the stock shocks, you would most likely get control arm to droop stop contact. Do you have the aluminum or steel suspension?

 

The control arms are steel if that answers your question. Not sure about anything else

Posted

 

I have a RC 2.5 Level with the taller rear block and its kind of bothering me how my truck still has 1" of rake. Only I can notice it I'm sure but I was wondering if I could get a set of Bilstein's in the front to fix this? Besides going back and putting the stock block back in of course... Any advice to make it completely level?

Are you suggesting adding more front height by doubling up on leveling with spacers and adjustable shocks? I have not read about anyone having success with this. A 1" rake, in my opinion is ideal. It is not noticeable and you can carry a light load without looking overloaded!

Posted

Are you suggesting adding more front height by doubling up on leveling with spacers and adjustable shocks? I have not read about anyone having success with this. A 1" rake, in my opinion is ideal. It is not noticeable and you can carry a light load without looking overloaded!

 

yeah that's what I was wondering. I'm just a perfectionist/ maybe some OCD. It's barely noticeable and I probably shouldn't have measured it lol. I'll get over it

Posted

I have the 5100's front and rear on my truck and I love the ride. Doing a zone 4.5 lift keeping the 5100's up front but bilstein does not offer a lifted shock for 2014-on 1500. 2013 1500 shows a part number and 2015-on 2500 also shows a lifted rear shock. What should I do??

Posted

The problem with adding 5100's to a spacer is that the 5100's are longer than stock shocks. So when you add a spacer, the shocks become even longer than stock, and the suspension has the ability to extend further down. You could get new UCA's that allow for more droop, but then you may overextend the tie rods and cv axels. If your running any sort of front diff drop bracket, it will help with the geometry, but in the end, 5100's with a spacer will still provide more droop than what the drop bracket is designed for.

 

My suggestion is to run 5100's alone, or with a smaller spacer than whatever came with any spacer kit you bought. Trucks with aluminum front suspension would be hard pressed to get even a 1" spacer in between the 5100 and the coil perch or lower CA before the uca contacts the droop stop on the frame (I tried it).

 

I'm going to try 5100's on the second setting (.75" lift) and either a .50" or .75" spacer below the shock. I think any more than that the cv's will be very unhappy when the suspension is fully extended. And yes, this will only be around 1.5" of lift, but I will have more droop travel over stock shocks and a spacer that gives a similar amount of lift. Function over form. I may go to a 1" spacer and new UCA's if this setup works out and the driveline geometry is too out of whack.

Posted

Hello all total newb here, I've been reading a lot lately and still can't decide what to do. I recently bought a new to me 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 that has a leveling kit and bigger rear block installed and having never had a leveled truck I'm not too crazy about the ride quality, it's got about 1" of rake which is just fit with me. I'm debating a couple things, 1) install bilstein 4600 shocks and leave the leveling kit on and hope it makes it a little better. Or 2) get bilstein 5100s for all 4 corners and remove the front kit all together. The truck also has ~33"X11" ko2's on some 18" kmc wheels. I do a considerable amount of off pavement driving as we go camping and hunting all summer and fall so I'm just looking for a little better ride. So I guess my real question is this, do bilstein 5100s ride "nicer" than a block leveling kit up front? I just don't really like the "jarring" when I got a pothole or bigger bump. Thanks for any input you guys can share

Posted

Hello all total newb here, I've been reading a lot lately and still can't decide what to do. I recently bought a new to me 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 that has a leveling kit and bigger rear block installed and having never had a leveled truck I'm not too crazy about the ride quality, it's got about 1" of rake which is just fit with me. I'm debating a couple things, 1) install bilstein 4600 shocks and leave the leveling kit on and hope it makes it a little better. Or 2) get bilstein 5100s for all 4 corners and remove the front kit all together. The truck also has ~33"X11" ko2's on some 18" kmc wheels. I do a considerable amount of off pavement driving as we go camping and hunting all summer and fall so I'm just looking for a little better ride. So I guess my real question is this, do bilstein 5100s ride "nicer" than a block leveling kit up front? I just don't really like the "jarring" when I got a pothole or bigger bump. Thanks for any input you guys can share

I installed the 5100s on all four corners on my 14 silverado Z71 and thought the ride was great. The highest setting leveled the truck perfectly. I went with the leveling shocks over the spacer kits so that the ride quality would be better.

Posted

I installed the 5100s on all four corners on my 14 silverado Z71 and thought the ride was great. The highest setting leveled the truck perfectly. I went with the leveling shocks over the spacer kits so that the ride quality would be better.

 

Thanks for the reply man, so you would think if I removed the front kit installed the 5100s all around with the fronts on the highest setting and kept the bigger rear block it would still keep a little rake and ride better?
Posted

Thanks for the reply man, so you would think if I removed the front kit installed the 5100s all around with the fronts on the highest setting and kept the bigger rear block it would still keep a little rake and ride better?

In my opinion, yes; however, I'm by no means an expert on this topic. You need to make sure the bigger rear block is within tolerances for the rear shocks. If I remember correctly you can use a block up to one inch taller than the stock block, but you'll need to confirm.

Posted (edited)

i have the rancho shocks and a rough country 2.5" level kit. if i put the bilsteins 5100 shocks in should i removed the level kit

From the research I did last year, I think you should remove it - at the least, the front spacer. I remember reading about a lot of folks trying to use the 5100s with a level kit and it didn't work well on the front end. I would not leave the front spacer on with the 5100s; though you may be able to leave the rear block (I'm assuming your level kit came with a replacement rear block since it's a 2.5). Others with more expertise and experience may be able to offer better guidance.

Edited by pcruis1
  • Like 1
Posted

Hello all total newb here, I've been reading a lot lately and still can't decide what to do. I recently bought a new to me 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 that has a leveling kit and bigger rear block installed and having never had a leveled truck I'm not too crazy about the ride quality, it's got about 1" of rake which is just fit with me. I'm debating a couple things, 1) install bilstein 4600 shocks and leave the leveling kit on and hope it makes it a little better. Or 2) get bilstein 5100s for all 4 corners and remove the front kit all together. The truck also has ~33"X11" ko2's on some 18" kmc wheels. I do a considerable amount of off pavement driving as we go camping and hunting all summer and fall so I'm just looking for a little better ride. So I guess my real question is this, do bilstein 5100s ride "nicer" than a block leveling kit up front? I just don't really like the "jarring" when I got a pothole or bigger bump. Thanks for any input you guys can share

the 33" LT tires are adding to the roughness you are experiencing. KO-2's are LT tires and I believe are an 8ply C load range or 10 ply E load range depending on size. Much firmer than the P metric tires that came on the 1500.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 521 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...