Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yeah, that does look backwards. I just pulled my instructions and they are the same.

The way I have mine set up; the hose from the dirty air (under the throttle body) goes into the can where the internal filter is at. The wire mesh stuff I have in the internal filter captures and water/oil and drips into the can. The clean air (side with the dip stick) connects to the side of the engine.

I hope mine is connected correctly.

I just went out and looked at my can and compared them to the instructions. The side with the dip stick is labeled outlet and the side with the internal filter is labeled as the inlet. Looks like ADD W1 mislabeled their instructions.

Posted

Okay here is my interpretation of the instructions, the picture on the left with the inlet at the dipstick is for normal operation the picture on the right with the red arrows is for off road use only. That's what it says on my instructions. I don't know if I am correct on this it is just a theory. Has anyone contacted them to verify which way is correct?

Posted (edited)

Okay here is my interpretation of the instructions, the picture on the left with the inlet at the dipstick is for normal operation the picture on the right with the red arrows is for off road use only. That's what it says on my instructions. I don't know if I am correct on this it is just a theory. Has anyone contacted them to verify which way is correct?

I have looked all over the box and instructions and there is no contact info anywhere not even and address or where its made or where the box is made nothing. I found a number on the net but no answer left a message a month ago never got a call back. Makes you wounder.

 

Found this: ADVANCED DEVELOPMENT DEPOT INC

3612 Arden Dr,

El Monte, CA 91731

(626) 575-0360

 

116 East Live Oak Avenue

Arcadia, CA 91006

Phone: (626) 378-3109

 

Maybe one of us can get a hold of them

Edited by southern_sierra
Posted (edited)

Got a question about the o-ring. When I received my can the o-ring was at the base of the threads on the collection part of can. All the pics I see the o-ring is in the top of the can at the top of the threads of the base. At what position are ya'll running them.

 

 

And as for the filter seems to me you would want to clean the air going back to the intake. But if you look in this can and how the outlet side is made with a shelf under the outlet side just not sure how that would work if you reversed the hoses with the dirty side air coming in with the shelf underneath it seems there needs to be a pipe that extends that side down into the can. Hope this makes since.

Edited by southern_sierra
Posted

I will be following the diagram with the red arrows I feel it makes more sense the dirty air goes through the inlet and filter the oil and water condensate and drop into the can base with the clean filtered air being sucked from the can into the manifold. same principle as the air filter on the truck.

Posted

Got a question about the o-ring. When I received my can the o-ring was at the base of the threads on the collection part of can. All the pics I see the o-ring is in the top of the can at the top of the threads of the base. At what position are ya'll running them.

 

 

And as for the filter seems to me you would want to clean the air going back to the intake. But if you look in this can and how the outlet side is made with a shelf under the outlet side just not sure how that would work if you reversed the hoses with the dirty side air coming in with the shelf underneath it seems there needs to be a pipe that extends that side down into the can. Hope this makes since.

The O ring should be at the end of the thread where the thread meets the smooth finished outside diameter of the can

Posted

The O ring should be at the end of the thread where the thread meets the smooth finished outside diameter of the can

My thinking on both points thanks

Posted (edited)

Okay here is my interpretation of the instructions, the picture on the left with the inlet at the dipstick is for normal operation the picture on the right with the red arrows is for off road use only. That's what it says on my instructions. I don't know if I am correct on this it is just a theory. Has anyone contacted them to verify which way is correct?

 

I'm not sure why it says "off road use only" but I believe that wording is referring to something else....like the can model or an extra install step. But I don't' think it's referring to the right diagram versus the left diagram in that same picture. PCV gases should only be traveling through a catch can in one specific direction and that direction does not change by the type of driving conditions you are doing. You are correct the PCV gases should pass through the port that connects to the filter chamber/media first. The other port is the "clean side" so to speak of the catch can and its the outlet port of the can.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted

 

I'm not sure why it says "off road use only" but I believe that wording is referring to something else....like the can model or an extra install step. But I don't' think it's referring to the right diagram versus the left diagram in that same picture. PCV gases should only be traveling through a catch can in one specific direction and that direction does not change by the type of driving conditions you are doing. You are correct the PCV gases should pass through the port that connects to the filter chamber/media first. The other port is the "clean side" so to speak of the catch can and its the outlet port of the can.

I agree

Posted (edited)

I will be following the diagram with the red arrows I feel it makes more sense the dirty air goes through the inlet and filter the oil and water condensate and drop into the can base with the clean filtered air being sucked from the can into the manifold. same principle as the air filter on the truck.

 

I have the Dirty side (from TB) going into the inlet side (with media), then exiting the can from the outlet side and then entering the manifold. I agree that the dirty air needs to contact the media and oil drip down into can then clean air exits into engine. Also, I want any shavings from the media to also drop into the can and not go directly into the engine.

 

So I guess that shows how well I follow instructions because I didn't realize the left pic was incorrect. The can itself is labeled correctly. The inlet side is the media side. So your hoses should cross over each other at some point.

Edited by EXSlider400
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I solved the suction sound I was getting with the can installed. I had removed my can a few weeks ago and decided to reinstall it yesterday with pcv fuel hose but still had the suction sound. After fooling around with it trying to see what was making the sound I noticed that the hose looked like it was alittle of round like it was trying to suck to more so on the outlet side. I could put my hand around a hose and the sound would change. So I got my ear down on the hose and you could tell the sound was coming from the hose. I replace the hose this morning with 3/8 hydraulic hose and all sounds are gone. The pcv hose was trying to suck to just enough to cause a restriction in air flow to cause the sound I think sort of like a vacuum cleaner hose when it gets sometimes hung up in the hose. The hose was not warm either I was afraid later when it heated up from the engine temp and this summer when its 95 it was only going to be softer. I looked at some trans hose but was just as soft or easy to squeeze with your fingers as the pcv hose that why I went with the hydraulic hose it will not suck to. If you use the hydraulic hose be careful and take your time installing it at the engine fittings just put some oil on the hose barbs and inside the hose to help it slide on don't want to brake a fitting off. Maybe no one else was having this problem with the restricted air sound but I knew something was not right with mine now its quite and makes me think its working as it should.

Edited by southern_sierra
Posted

I solved the suction sound I was getting with the can installed. I had removed my can a few weeks ago and decided to reinstall it yesterday with pcv fuel hose but still had the suction sound. After fooling around with it trying to see what was making the sound I noticed that the hose looked like it was alittle of round like it was trying to suck to more so on the outlet side. I could put my hand around a hose and the sound would change. So I got my ear down on the hose and you could tell the sound was coming from the hose. I replace the hose this morning with 3/8 hydraulic hose and all sounds are gone. The pcv hose was trying to suck to just enough to cause a restriction in air flow to cause the sound I think sort of like a vacuum cleaner hose when it gets sometimes hung up in the hose. The hose was not warm either I was afraid later when it heated up from the engine temp and this summer when its 95 it was only going to be softer. I looked at some trans hose but was just as soft or easy to squeeze with your fingers as the pcv hose that why I went with the hydraulic hose it will not suck to. If you use the hydraulic hose be careful and take your time installing it at the engine fittings just put some oil on the hose barbs and inside the hose to help it slide on don't want to brake a fitting off. Maybe no one else was having this problem with the restricted air sound but I knew something was not right with mine now its quite and makes me think its working as it should.

Glad to hear you solved the suction noise problem southern_sierra, perseverance always wins :throwup:

Posted

I noticed this suction sound on mine yesterday when I got home. Like Southern Sierra I could see the hose had a sucked in shape and when I squeezed it the sound stopped. Yesterday was almost in the 80's so ovesly the power steering lines I used cant take the heat. So im off to get new hoses.

Posted (edited)

I noticed this suction sound on mine yesterday when I got home. Like Southern Sierra I could see the hose had a sucked in shape and when I squeezed it the sound stopped. Yesterday was almost in the 80's so ovesly the power steering lines I used cant take the heat. So im off to get new hoses.

 

I know those summers in Red Stick are HOT..... I lived in Denham (Central actually) for awhile while working in BRPO until I went to LaPlace, but grew up near Hammond so I know. Crawfish season is back so it is time to make a trip back home, and in-laws have a camp in Manchac so do a little fishin to. I do miss living down there (always something fun to do) and was actually considering moving back.

Edited by EXSlider400
  • Like 1
Posted

I finished up fabricating my catch can mounting bracket today. I am just waiting for my spare foul air hose to arrive from the USA so I can get the quick connect fittings to do the install.Catch%20can%20bracket.jpg?t=1425948842

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
    • He has his dad’s newer truck he’s put away. He has several old cars he rotates between him and his family. I’ve seen a restored square body and a SS Chevy truck he’s sometimes drives. He did raffle off a new suburban recently. As much as he is watched if he drove new stuff as a rule we’d know it. It would be fine by me. I don’t care what people prefer. I got one more new one in me. I’d rather my wife get one. I can’t get her out of the Genesis. Don’t tell anyone. I want her to get an electric truck. I want to put a generator in the back. Just because. She hasn’t bit yet.
    • Yes, you must have seen my thread on the Blazer. HOT GARBAGE, but I love them anyway. I'm convinced every car guy has a soft sport for an S/T series somewheres. Probably even a Panther too, if I'm being an honest car guy. That doesn't mean they aren't junk. And they definitely don't get better with age. I sometimes play with old cars, but that's by choice. I don't rely on them and they aren't my everyday fleet.   Derek plays the common man on Youtube and that's no doubt where he started. Now he has Youtube money (and Motortrend, etc). You think his crews and his wife ride around in old beaters when they're chasing him and his wrecks across the country? No he's got newer and nicer stuff for that, you'll see glimpses of it in the footage.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...