bladz1454 Posted February 9, 2015 Posted February 9, 2015 (edited) I've got the same vacuum sound coming from the suction side. I also used Gates 3/8" PCV hose and it seems the suction is strong enough to even partially collapse it. I mounted the can near the aux battery location. Do you think the length of hoses makes a difference? I replaced the standard fuel line (50 PSI) with tranny line (175 PSI) and cleaned up the hoses paths... I just want to make something now to stop the hoses from all touching each other at the bend. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/154204-oil-catch-can/page-24?do=findComment&comment=1549905 I mounted my can there and the sound is from the suction (it is normal) traveling greater lengths. My hose because of the distance/lack of PSI tolerance was also collapsing, I replaced it with Tranny line and its more quiet and no where near ovaling like before. Edited February 9, 2015 by bladz1454
Holy Smokes Posted February 9, 2015 Posted February 9, 2015 I may pick up some "tranny" line and swap it out to see if that helps.
bladz1454 Posted February 9, 2015 Posted February 9, 2015 I may pick up some "tranny" line and swap it out to see if that helps. It will definitely stop the collapsing. Minimum PSI for that hose is triple fuel ine PSI.
EXSlider400 Posted February 9, 2015 Author Posted February 9, 2015 The line I used was "gates pvc" and no deformation but my mount location also makes the "suction" side shorter to.
southern_sierra Posted February 9, 2015 Posted February 9, 2015 It will definitely stop the collapsing. Minimum PSI for that hose is triple fuel ine PSI. Hello bladz, I like the looks of the Saikou Michi cans. Did you make the brackets nice job. I took my ADD W1 can off just wasn't happy with the suction sound that wasn't there before install. I may put it back on later and will use tranny line or hydraulic line. Would like to mount it closer to the engine had mine in the same location as yours it just makes it easier to services it there. Just wondering if you use 1/2 inch hose instead of 3/8 and then neck it down at the engine would that help with the sound by giving the vacuum more area. The add w1 can came with a piece of 1/2 inch hose maybe thats whats needed for that can.
bladz1454 Posted February 9, 2015 Posted February 9, 2015 (edited) Hello bladz, I like the looks of the Saikou Michi cans. Did you make the brackets nice job. I took my ADD W1 can off just wasn't happy with the suction sound that wasn't there before install. I may put it back on later and will use tranny line or hydraulic line. Would like to mount it closer to the engine had mine in the same location as yours it just makes it easier to services it there. Just wondering if you use 1/2 inch hose instead of 3/8 and then neck it down at the engine would that help with the sound by giving the vacuum more area. The add w1 can came with a piece of 1/2 inch hose maybe thats whats needed for that can. Thanks Southern. That can is actually a dual can prototype that I am finishing my trial run with pretty much this week (put about 1200 miles on it). I had Mr. Michi toss together the brackets based off some designs I gave him, all in all - it is a very clean and high quality product. I will be putting an official review w/purchasing information up within a week or so hopefully (weather permitting). The PCV inlet/outlets on the truck are 3/8" and I can you tell for a fact that using connectors to increase/decrease from that diameter to or from the can will cause noise at those connections. We had originally tried to run a 90* elbow where the line turns from the can up the valley to give it a clean look and that was LOUD. I would also assume that increasing from 3/8" to 1/2" will make the sound more loud since you are increasing air flow. In regards to the location, I like the ease of access but the main reason was to help with condensation. They did tests were the further the can from the heat, the cooler the air, the more condensation. Edited February 9, 2015 by bladz1454
haider320 Posted February 10, 2015 Posted February 10, 2015 Haider320 I installed my add w1 can today. After getting everything all check over I started the engine up and now has a vacuum suction sound that was not there before install. I didn't use clamps since its all under vacuum pressure. So just to make sure went back and installed clamps on all the fittings. Started up it up again and still have suction sound, I then unhooked the hoses from the engine and installed the stock hose back on the suction sound went away. Do you have that sound now or anyone else. The sound is not coming from the can and not from the inlet on the side of the intake its on the front almost sounds like it could be from the pvc outlet on the drivers side valve cover. I have taken that hose aloose and put it back on and both ends click in place. This may be normal now with the can and more hose install I just don't know never have been around one before. I also took it down the road with the can hooked up and could hear a slight buzzing sound while driving off slowly. Thanks I heard the suction sound you were describing today in my truck. To me it just sounds like air circulating in an empty aluminum can.
EXSlider400 Posted February 10, 2015 Author Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) I figured adding any hollow can you would hear a suction...but mine isn't loud and I can't here it once I shut the hood. And after swing what it captured....it isn't coming off. Edited February 10, 2015 by EXSlider400
southern_sierra Posted February 10, 2015 Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) I heard the suction sound you were describing today in my truck. To me it just sounds like air circulating in an empty aluminum can. Yeah its the can and added hose I guess. I didn't like the sound I was getting in the cab just starting off under slow acceleration sounds like a buzzing sound even hear it over the transmission whine in first gear. After I took the can off the buzzing sound went away. I don't know if the intake was causing the sound in the cab or not. Just have to think it over before I reinstall it. Edited February 10, 2015 by southern_sierra
Silverado-Hareek Posted February 10, 2015 Posted February 10, 2015 They did tests were the further the can from the heat, the cooler the air, the more condensation. This makes sense in theory but I question the practicality of it. The internal temperature of the can won't vary much(if at all) at the rate of the crankcase gasses passing through it and the temperature in the engine bay building up as you drive. Maybe if the can was mounted say at the rear of the truck under the bed it would make a difference but shifting it 1' to the right and still keeping it in the engine bay, I don't know I don't think it will make much of a difference at all. The bigger difference maker is the amount of surface area inside the can that the gasses can make contact with in order to slow the vapors down enough to cool and condense. I'd be curious to see the test data though to learn more.
bladz1454 Posted February 10, 2015 Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) This makes sense in theory but I question the practicality of it. The internal temperature of the can won't vary much(if at all) at the rate of the crankcase gasses passing through it and the temperature in the engine bay building up as you drive. Maybe if the can was mounted say at the rear of the truck under the bed it would make a difference but shifting it 1' to the right and still keeping it in the engine bay, I don't know I don't think it will make much of a difference at all. The bigger difference maker is the amount of surface area inside the can that the gasses can make contact with in order to slow the vapors down enough to cool and condense. I'd be curious to see the test data though to learn more. I agree and obviously I'm just going off what I read but if you google Thermal Mapping of Truck Engine Compartments, you will actually see that those front (and rear) corners of the engine bay are significantly cooler than that areas people have been mounting their cans right next to the engine blocks. Edited February 10, 2015 by bladz1454
haider320 Posted February 10, 2015 Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) I know cans i've used in the past, including this one; get pretty dang warm to the touch. I'm not worried about condensation. Edited February 11, 2015 by haider320
Silverado-Hareek Posted February 10, 2015 Posted February 10, 2015 I agree and obviously I'm just going off what I read but if you google Thermal Mapping of Truck Engine Compartments, you will actually see that those front (and rear) corners of the engine bay are significantly cooler than that areas people have been mounting their cans right next to the engine blocks. Yeah that's interesting but I'm still wondering if it makes a real difference or not. Have you thought about building an isolation or insulating type box around the can maybe similar to what a cold air intake has around the filter?
corwest Posted February 11, 2015 Posted February 11, 2015 Yeah that's interesting but I'm still wondering if it makes a real difference or not. Have you thought about building an isolation or insulating type box around the can maybe similar to what a cold air intake has around the filter? Route a line from the ac to a semi sealed box. That should do the trick
Bonker Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 I think I am going to use 3/8" inside diameter polyurethane tubing for this install I think it will be better than using rubber it is fuel and oil resistant and I know that it wont collapse under vacuum but I will wait till the weather warms up to do my install it will be -30 here overnight.
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