Installed ADD W1 Oil Catch Can

[EXSlider400]

This is a write up on installing an ADD W1 oil catch can on a 2014 5.3 Denali with a few thousand miles.

 

I like the RX can but after some research, the ADD can had good reviews as well. so for $90 I ordered it from ebay (same cost on amazon and new egg), and here is what it did. I am not a pro, just a hobbyist.

 

I did buy 4 feet of Gates 3/8 Fuel Vapor/PVC hose to replace the one in the kit and plan on inserting Scotch Brite Stainless Steel Scouring pad (not fibrous SS wool as this can degrade and cause metal fibers to enter intake) inside the can's filter compartment as shown in the above pic.

 

 

Here is a youtube video from RX which may help as well:

 

 

1) Here are pics of the package, flow diagram, and out of the box: Billet aluminum and sound construction. 2 Size ports. I chose to use the smaller one.

 

 

 

2) I don't have a way to make a custom bracket so I used the grounding bolt. I could have used the inner fender well on drivers side where 2nd battery can go but I may plan on adding a second battery later on. I had to drill out the hole to 7/32 and that was just enough to screw the bracket down with the use of a washer and bolt I had in the shop. I wanted to use the lock washer but their was not enough room.

 

3) the Can was against the wire harness so I undid the clip, gave a little extra wire, and set the wire on top of 1 of the clips. It helps to remove the clips from the firewall for working room. They just pull off of the bolt like prong. After mouse ting the can is tilted a little down so just gently pull it up to bend it flat/straight.

 

 

 

 

4) Did not want to, but the dip stick was too long to put in. If you leave it in when installing you won't have to trim it but still can't use it and it will be hanging down when removing the bottom part of the can. Again, if on inner fender, you won't have to trim it. I plan on checking every 1,000 miles until I get a good baseline, but I expect having to drain every oil change. I used a pair of wire cutters.

 

5) This is the spot you can unscrew and put any filter media. As you can see, it has holes before and after (above and below) the empty spot. I did rinse with some alcohol since I saw aluminum residue/dust from the manufacturer's drilling process.

 

 

6) To allow enough room to disconnect the vapor line, I removed the air intake tube (including the 2 hoses on either end of the air housing) and unbolted the throttle body. This was super easy and you should not be worried, just unbolt and remove the bolts 1 at a time. Their is a green o-ring seal so no need to replace any gaskets. In doing so, I cleaned this buildup. I am unsure what the white tube inside the intake does though...

 

 

7) To make room to remove the line, I also disconnected the injector connections (just pull up on red tab and squeeze down/pull up on plug). Also pull up on the 2 grey zip tie rings that secure the harness to the intake. You may not have to make room but I did not want to brake anything so I was very precautious. Also, another member broke the nipple on the outlet side and had to replace entire manifold so I was being very careful when squeezing and removing the quick connector. All of them came off easy except for this one. I think it had to do with the line being turned, so if it seems hard, do not use excessive force but try and rotate the line gently as you are squeezing the gray clip.

 

8) I cut the quick connectors off as shown and will order a replacement hose this week just incase.

 

9) Applied some water to new hose ends to help them slide on, and attached hose clamps. I will probably buy some black clips for a more OEM look later on but the barbs seemed tight enough to hold with out any additional help anyway. Then zip tied hoses together out of the way of oil filler cap.

 

and....here it is......

 

Thant's all folks........

Edited February 1, 2015 by EXSlider400

[patriot]

Nice writeup.

 

You'll probably be emptying this a LOT more often than every oil change if it does it's job.

Edited February 1, 2015 by patriot

[RyanbabZ71]

Do you have to unscrew it to drain?

 

IMO the other types/brands are easier to drain as they have drain valves on the bottom of the cans

[EXSlider400]

Yes, but I rather this as it will not require placing another container under the drain and I can see everything that it captured. I would worry if there was material still in the can.....over working I know. I am concerned how hard it will be to unscrew after getting hot so I placed some oil on the o-ring to.

 

Below is the first 25 miles on a trip to town and back home to get the scotch Brite Stainless pad I am putting in now!!

Edited February 1, 2015 by EXSlider400

[southern_sierra]

Yes, but I rather this as it will not require placing another container under the drain and I can see everything that it captured. I would worry if there was material still in the can.....over working I know. I am concerned how hard it will be to unscrew after getting hot so I placed some oil on the o-ring to.

 

Below is the first 25 miles on a trip to town and back home to get the scotch Brite Stainless pad I am putting in now!!

Thanks for the info. Do you think there is any benefit to the ADD Ver 2 can with the filtered breather vent .

Edited February 1, 2015 by southern_sierra

[haider320]

Awesome write up! I just ordered my Add W1 catch can today for 85.00. Heck of a lot better than the overpriced RX catch can.

[EXSlider400]

Thanks for the info. Do you think there is any benefit to the ADD Ver 2 can with the filtered breather vent .

I am unsure. I wanted to keep the system in a closed loop as to not trip any engine codes such as a vacuum leak.

[southern_sierra]

I am unsure. I wanted to keep the system in a closed loop as to not trip any engine codes such as a vacuum leak.

That does make since and if it did work the extra filter just something elese to worry about.

 

Did your truck come from the factory with to much engine oil just wondering. Mine is over full about a half inch on the stick. I found where GM revised the the amount of oil on the 5.3 from 8.5qts to 8qts. You would have though Gm would have caught this before putting these trucks out. I only have 1950 miles on mine and do my own oil changes. I asked my dealer oil change shop just to see what they would say about oil capacity and said 8.5 to almost 8.75qts. This is why I do my own service.

[EXSlider400]

That does make since and if it did work the extra filter just something elese to worry about.

 

Did your truck come from the factory with to much engine oil just wondering. Mine is over full about a half inch on the stick. I found where GM revised the the amount of oil on the 5.3 from 8.5qts to 8qts. You would have though Gm would have caught this before putting these trucks out. I only have 1950 miles on mine and do my own oil changes. I asked my dealer oil change shop just to see what they would say about oil capacity and said 8.5 to almost 8.75qts. This is why I do my own service.

a little over but not much. I use to work a an oil change place when I was young and I rather do my own to.

Edited February 1, 2015 by EXSlider400

[EXSlider400]

Awesome write up! I just ordered my Add W1 catch can today for 85.00. Heck of a lot better than the overpriced RX catch can.

I also saw where some cans such as RX come with a 1 way valve...but my truck did not come with on in that line from GM so I don't see any need for one as long as I keep the can drained. I think it is mostly for turbo or high output systems.

[southern_sierra]

I also saw where some cans such as RX come with a 1 way valve...but my truck did not come with on in that line from GM so I don't see any need for one as long as I keep the can drained. I think it is mostly for turbo or high output systems.

I was thinking about putting in a check valve too. Just ordered my can.

[bladz1454]

Thanks for the info. Do you think there is any benefit to the ADD Ver 2 can with the filtered breather vent .

Do NOT add a breather vent to your truck. It is a closed pressure system, any un-metered air entering the system will wreak havoc on your engine.

[southern_sierra]

Do NOT add a breather vent to your truck. It is a closed pressure system, any un-metered air entering the system will wreak havoc on your engine.

Thanks I ordered the add w1 vers1 can. Just didn't hit me with the filtered can had a brain fart. You know you think GM would have caught this problem during testing or maybe they did and thought money maker for sure, never know. These are things you shouldn't have to do to a $50,000 truck.

[WendysOrBust]

Thanks I ordered the add w1 vers1 can. Just didn't hit me with the filtered can had a brain fart. You know you think GM would have caught this problem during testing or maybe they did and thought money maker for sure, never know. These are things you shouldn't have to do to a $50,000 truck.

Well this issue is not specific to our trucks. If you look around at any other car/truck forum everyone is having the same issues. Over on the F150 forums, this is an issue on both the 5.0 and the 3.5 Ecoboost. Dodge, same thing. More than likely manufacturers test the system and decide that the oil entering the engine is at an acceptable rate. At the same time on older non direct injection engines this was less of an issue since fuel would regularly coat and clean the valves.

[Silverado-Hareek]

Well this issue is not specific to our trucks. If you look around at any other car/truck forum everyone is having the same issues. Over on the F150 forums, this is an issue on both the 5.0 and the 3.5 Ecoboost. Dodge, same thing. More than likely manufacturers test the system and decide that the oil entering the engine is at an acceptable rate. At the same time on older non direct injection engines this was less of an issue since fuel would regularly coat and clean the valves.

 

This. The problem lies in the inherent design of a direct injection engine. It is not unique to any make or model vehicle.