Jump to content

Normal? Loud clunk going from D to R and back?

Steve1199

By Steve1199
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Steve1199 Enthusiast

Steve1199

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've been having some of the other mentioned transmission "anomalies" such as abrupt 1-2-3, 3-2-1 shifts, a few instances where the transmission has almost felt like did slipped little. Random instances of abrupt shifts coming off coasting/slowing down and the clunk/thump in the rear end/driveline.

 

I've never noticed this in other vehicles and our Hyundai suv doesn't make noise like this.

 

Happened to back the truck up a few feet with the door open and noticed this.

 

Is this level of noise normal or expected with these trucks? For this video I held my foot on the brake and was shifting between D and R. You can hear my gear shift lever chanting and then the loud clunk second later when the transmission changes. I've never gotten any warning lights or anything. I have noticed a few times where it seems to hang for a second before it actually shifts but never noticed the clunking before.

 

Just seeing if this is normal.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj284/steven_sutton1/Mobile%20Uploads/th_20150220_150525_zpsaw7skusp.mp4

Edited by Steve1199
dcheeseman Enthusiast

dcheeseman

Posted
Posted

I believe what your hearing is in the rear-end, the play between the rack and pinion gear. Also the gear selection from drive to reverse. Yes its normal. Over time it will wear more, best thing to do is come to a complete stop before changing drive to reverse (vise-versa), change the gear oil when recommended, and take care of it/etc.

 

Daniel

dcheeseman Enthusiast

dcheeseman

Posted
Posted

I see people all the time do the following, while truck is still rolling backward, they place the vehicle in drive and vise versa. Thats not doing your clutch packs any favors, nor the rear-end. Vehicles are expensive, I believe in taking care of them.

  • Like 1
SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted (edited)

What I think is happening is parking on a slight incline so when you let off the brake after putting it in park the truck will roll a little which will bind up the drivetrain. I always use my parking brake unless I'm in a parking lot where I know it's level so I won't have this happen. The right way to do it is to apply the parking brake with the trans in neutral and then let off the brake so the parking brake catches the truck and then put it in park.

Edited by SouthernSilveradoGuy85
dcheeseman Enthusiast

dcheeseman

Posted
Posted

What I think is happening is parking on a slight incline so when you let off the brake after putting it in park the truck will roll a little which will bind up the drivetrain. I always use my parking brake unless I'm in a parking lot where I know it's level so I won't have this happen. The right way to do it is to apply the parking brake with the trans in neutral and then let off the brake so the parking brake catches the truck and then put it in park.

I do that with my vehicles, keeps the pressure off the transmission park gear. Very smart Steve!

  • Like 1
Steve1199 Enthusiast

Steve1199

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Truck was on level ground,not moving, foot held firmly on the brake. Truck lurched a little bit with each shift.

 

Still normal?

Edited by Steve1199
pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

I see people all the time do the following, while truck is still rolling backward, they place the vehicle in drive and vise versa. Thats not doing your clutch packs any favors, nor the rear-end. Vehicles are expensive, I believe in taking care of them.

Your owner's manual specifically warns against this, as it may damage the transmission if done repeatedly.

  • Like 1
2016 Sierra Owner Senior Enthusiast

2016 Sierra Owner

Posted
Posted

Truck was on level ground,not moving, foot held firmly on the brake. Truck lurched a little bit with each shift.

 

Still normal?

 

I heard this while backing into a parking space one day and had to pull forward. It has nothing to do with being on an incline or rolling. If you set the parking break so the truck does not move and switch from Rev to Fwd you will hear it. I brought it to my dealers attention on my 1st oil change and they said it is normal. I believe it's just the play in the shaft rotating back and forth.

Bassinz71 Enthusiast

Bassinz71

Posted
Posted

Mine does the same thing. Pretty annoying, but my 04 did it, too. My pops 12 doesn't seem to do it nearly as bad, though.

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

Mine does the same thing. It will randomly clunk and shift hard into drive or reverse from park. And when driving around town and coasting either to a stop or slowing slightly and then giving it a little gas, every so often it will an abrupt/hard down shift and make a clunking noise. The truck drives fine overall other than those random hiccups.

  • 4 years later...
West New Member

West

Posted
Posted

I know this is a old thread but I purchased a 2014 GMC Sierra. The issues you described Are identical from what I’m experiencing. 
 

It seems like even at a dead stop switching into reverse or forward there’s an initial clunk noise. As well as random shifting annoyances. 
 

Of the few other trucks I’ve owned as well as other cars in my household I’ve never experienced this issue.

 

I kind of think it’s getting worse and wonder if there’s something that can be done like adjustments or possible worn parts in the rear end, trans etc.

JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted
51 minutes ago, West said:

I know this is a old thread but I purchased a 2014 GMC Sierra. The issues you described Are identical from what I’m experiencing. 
 

It seems like even at a dead stop switching into reverse or forward there’s an initial clunk noise. As well as random shifting annoyances. 
 

Of the few other trucks I’ve owned as well as other cars in my household I’ve never experienced this issue.

 

I kind of think it’s getting worse and wonder if there’s something that can be done like adjustments or possible worn parts in the rear end, trans etc.

Welcome to the site.

 

How many miles, do you know the service history of the truck?

 

More than likely, it is your transmission, maybe torque converter. Lots of posts on the site about both, and the characteristics they both display when there is a problem.

 

 

Mozzer Enthusiast

Mozzer

Posted
Posted

With it parked in neutral see how much movement & what kind of noises you get rotating the driveshaft back & forth by hand. I was shocked how much play there was with mine from almost new but it doesn't seem to have got any worse after 120,000 kms.

2014, 5.3, 4x4, work truck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...