Jump to content

HID question

buckwuk

Recommended Posts

buckwuk Enthusiast

buckwuk

Posted
Posted

Im planning on doing HID headlights and the fogs on a gmc. If i order the 2 sets listed below do both use the stock housing? Because there is no way i'd be able to do a retro fit from what i've seen. And watt wattage and kalvin bulb is the best to get? I've read a lot of things on here and am probably just so scatter brained im not quite understanding.

 

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems/morimoto-elite-hid-system-sierra-low-beam.html#.VXUNAkazk2V

 

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems/morimoto-elite-h16-5202-hid-system.html?carDisplay=2015+GMC+Sierra+Halogen+%28Projectors%29&preselect=RELAY-5202%2F2504%2CXB-BALLAST-55%2CXB2-5202-5#.VXUDS0azk2V

diggerdan11 Enthusiast

diggerdan11

Posted
Posted

The only advice I can give you is that 35w is plenty, and in my experience 55w are not any brighter than 35w they just change the color tempreture.

 

And as far as color temp goes, 4500k is stock HID color and the higher up the Kelvin rating you go thes less light output there is. I personally like the 5500K, they have just a light tinge of blue to it which looks nice, but not ricey at all.

cobalt02 Enthusiast

cobalt02

Posted
Posted

The only advice I can give you is that 35w is plenty, and in my experience 55w are not any brighter than 35w they just change the color tempreture.

 

And as far as color temp goes, 4500k is stock HID color and the higher up the Kelvin rating you go thes less light output there is. I personally like the 5500K, they have just a light tinge of blue to it which looks nice, but not ricey at all.

 

I completely agree with Dan about the 35w over 55w. There really is no significant advantage of 55w.

 

I'd run 5000k as well. The 5000k is that pure white. If you want any blue, I wouldnt go over 6000k.

 

Im running HIDs from http://www.alphahid.com/-- they have the same warranty as TRS and very similar products (both AC digital ballasts, ASIC etc) and they're half the price.

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

If you run HIDs in the fog lights 3 things may be of concern.

 

First, 35w may melt the plastic fog light housings. There is a company called HIDguy that sells a 25w kit for them.

 

Second, HIDs take about 20-30 seconds to warm up to full bright. If you are courteous and shut them off for oncoming cars, you have to wait for them to come back to full bright after turning them on again.

 

Third, they will be so bright in the fog light position that they will blind oncoming traffic badly. So you can't just drive around with them on to look cool. If that's your intent, buy some low powered LED bulbs that are the same color as the HID headlights.

Dunc Enthusiast

Dunc

Posted
Posted

4300k is stock HID color and the higher up the Kelvin rating you go thes less light output there is unless you use OSRAM 66240 CBI bulbs which are 5500k and are rated with more lumens than normal 4300k bulbs. I personally like the 5500K, they have just a light tinge of blue to it which looks nice, but not ricey at all.

The red text are some corrections.

buckwuk Enthusiast

buckwuk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If you run HIDs in the fog lights 3 things may be of concern.

 

First, 35w may melt the plastic fog light housings. There is a company called HIDguy that sells a 25w kit for them.

 

Second, HIDs take about 20-30 seconds to warm up to full bright. If you are courteous and shut them off for oncoming cars, you have to wait for them to come back to full bright after turning them on again.

 

Third, they will be so bright in the fog light position that they will blind oncoming traffic badly. So you can't just drive around with them on to look cool. If that's your intent, buy some low powered LED bulbs that are the same color as the HID headlights.

 

I'll save my money then and take your advice on led. Don't want to be a hazard on the road. I know there is a build by some one can't remember his name but he list all the LEDs for all the lights and where to get I have it saved on my laptop probably go that route

gmtech117 Enthusiast

gmtech117

Posted
Posted

Yeah, stay away from hid in the fogs.. I ran them for maybe a week (35w) and they started to mess up the reflective housing.. Pulled them out and put 6k vleds bulbs in. As for the headlamp hids you posted that is what you want. I have that kit and got the 6k bulbs and they match the fogs nicely

SkiDooNick700 Enthusiast

SkiDooNick700

Posted
Posted

Yes^

 

I should probably do a search before asking, but is the beam spread and cutoff pretty good? I guess it would fill the same area that the halogens currently do?

SkiDooNick700 Enthusiast

SkiDooNick700

Posted
Posted

Hmm Ok. I'll have to consider this. definitely looking for some brighter lights, especially come fall and winter time

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

For the fog lights, if you want a really useful fog light with moderate power, consider the Rigid D series DOT/SAE approved (street legal) light. They are about 3 times more powerful (1500 lumens vs 500) and very well controlled beam with a good cutoff.

 

20150221_182838_zpsp2fgwa2j.jpg

 

DSC_2862%20Medium_zpsgxnt7a24.jpg

SkiDooNick700 Enthusiast

SkiDooNick700

Posted
Posted

I was doing some reading last night about putting an HID bulb into a Halogen Projector (like SLTs have). I read that the beam spread won't be that great and that you are better off just running a good halogen bulb. Also said your distance vision at night may be shortened because the light will be too bright right in front of you.

 

Not sure how true it is.

gmtech117 Enthusiast

gmtech117

Posted
Posted

The hid is definitely brighter than the stock halogens .. And I don't see anything wrong with my beam pattern

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...