Jump to content

2015 Denali 1500 - 22"/20" vs 18"


Recommended Posts

Posted

I wonder how a Denali is so specific. My SLT has every option offered on a truck. No it doesn't say Denali on my seats, steering wheel or grill, but Denali doesn't really mean loaded. I was looking at two the other day and they were missing a few options. I agree they come with the magniride suspension and a different Guage cluster but that's all really.

Gauge cluster, factory sprayed bed liner, suspension, better leather = denali specific

 

additionally - if you include the grill, emblems, stitching, unique wheels (although I think some you can order and put on a regular truck) - those things are all different too but more aesthetic than an actual option/add-on

 

Like I said - I don't give a s**t about any of that really either, which is why I spent $1600 less and got my loaded up All Terrain.

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

 

What you say and what has been proven are two entirely different things...

 

Tyler

In the flawed test comparing 16's and 22's, try it again with 20's and 22's using the same width and height...

Posted

I just picked up an LTZ CC short bed with 22"wheels and must say that the gas mileage doesn't seem to be affected by them, I did notice that on the Window sticker it showed them to be aluminum and perhaps that helps a bit with the overall weight of the wheel/tire package, just my 02 cents

Posted

The weight difference is negligible. OK so one weighs 90 lbs and one weighs 75. That's 60 lbs difference on a 5000 lb vehicle. It's like taking my 8 year old granddaughter along for the ride. Oh better not take her, it'll cut down on my mileage!!! :nonod:

It would be a granddaughter and a friend. Adding 1 lb to tire / rim is about equal to 2 lbs of static weight in the vehicle. Makes a difference on lighter sporty cars, less so on 5000 lb truck I do agree.

Posted

Denali def isn't just a few cosmetic things, but that isn't the point of the thread. I went from the denali 20s to upgraded 22 wheels and the mpg is still the same. As another post says I am still getting 22+ on the hwy and averaging about 18mpg with the 6.2, which is basically the same as before. Those are real world numbers so I don't care about someones daughter or taking her friend and all that "static weight". If you guys want I can take a poo before I leave for work in the morning and report back on the mpg increase? :driving:

 

The ride is also better imo, the truck isn't so floaty if that makes sense. I wish it had a firm button like my old Sierra Denali

 

Def don't take a loss on the wheels, but to not buy a nice new Denali that you want because of the wheels would be a mistake. As others have said you can trade them on cl or what ever. Look of the 22s is worth it 18s would look horrible

Posted

Denali def isn't just a few cosmetic things, but that isn't the point of the thread. I went from the denali 20s to upgraded 22 wheels and the mpg is still the same. As another post says I am still getting 22+ on the hwy and averaging about 18mpg with the 6.2, which is basically the same as before. Those are real world numbers so I don't care about someones daughter or taking her friend and all that "static weight". If you guys want I can take a poo before I leave for work in the morning and report back on the mpg increase? :driving:

 

The ride is also better imo, the truck isn't so floaty if that makes sense. I wish it had a firm button like my old Sierra Denali

 

Def don't take a loss on the wheels, but to not buy a nice new Denali that you want because of the wheels would be a mistake. As others have said you can trade them on cl or what ever. Look of the 22s is worth it 18s would look horrible

With the manga ride suspension you're not going to notice the difference in ride comfort as much as you would on a regular suspension or especially a Z71 suspension.

 

The comments about unsprung weight and loss of performance are 100% accurate, you may not feel it so much In 5500 lb vehicle, but take a Camaro SS on 20"s to the track and run it then swap it out for 17"s w/ the same compound rubber and you will find a measurable difference - probably .2 off your previous time.

 

Def should get a credit for the wheels- as I mentioned earlier in the thread I was debating pulling the trigger on a black Denali vs. my black all terrain- both CC, both 4x4, both 6.2, both loaded- only thing the Denali had over the AT was the factory liner, trailer brake control (don't need), and lane departure crap. The dealer knocked the price down -$2500 for taking off the 22"s on the Denali and putting on 20"s (no "up charge" on the 20"s either- just a reduction in overall price for losing the 22"s- and why not? They'll put 'em on another truck and mark up) balance difference between the 2 trucks when both equipped w/ 20"s was $1650 and I went w/ the AT.

 

In truth that's not a big delta and I actually can see to many people the extra $1650 for the Denali being totally worth it. But if you don't like huge rims, IMO the AT 20"s > than Denali 20"s, the AT grill> than Denali grill (I actually hate the Denali grill), I dislike the magnaride because I want to swap out the shocks for bilstein 5100s and raise the back an inch get some AT tires- more difficult/costly w/ magnaride- BUT the magnaride absolutely gives the best ride of all the trucks.

Posted

Here are all of the unique Denali features:

 

Magnetic Suspension - awesome

Front Grill - cosmetic

Unique wheels - cosmetic

All Digital Cluster - cool, but cosmetic

12-way seats - non-Denali is 10-way adjustable - big whoop

Unique Denali stitching - cosmetic

Burnished Gold Aluminum Trim - cosmetic

Dark wood colored plastic trim - cosmetic

Denali emblems - cosmetic

 

Spray-in bed liner is not Denali unique

No better leather in Denali

Posted

And I agree that the difference between 22" and 20" ride will be negligible - especially with mag ride. Fuel Economy may suffer by 1/4 to 1/2 mpg at most. There is slightly more rotational mass further out on the wheel. It's not the absolute mass of the tire WRT the truck, but the radius at which it's located which amplifies the effort required to accelerate the tire. Same thing with the price of tires - maybe a $100-$150 per set every 3-4 years. All worth it for the styling and looks of the Denali in my opinion.

Posted

And I agree that the difference between 22" and 20" ride will be negligible - especially with mag ride. Fuel Economy may suffer by 1/4 to 1/2 mpg at most. There is slightly more rotational mass further out on the wheel. It's not the absolute mass of the tire WRT the truck, but the radius at which it's located which amplifies the effort required to accelerate the tire. Same thing with the price of tires - maybe a $100-$150 per set every 3-4 years. All worth it for the styling and looks of the Denali in my opinion.

 

As I called around for price of tires, I am finding that I am forced to agree, despite my initial concerns. The price difference between the 20 and 22 is just not significant. However, I still stand behind the fact that is is not worth a $3,000 upgrade to ME from 20s to 22s.

Posted

Was just about to say that when the time comes to buy new tires(in 2-4 years) the price isnt that much of a difference between 22s and 20s. Prices will also go down 2-4 years from now as well for those sizes.

I understand everyone has different taste and preference but it would drive me crazy seeing the 07+ Escalades with the ugly 18s when the 22s just made you look twice and say damn thats a nice SUV.

Go with the 22s on the Denali, my only regret is not getting the 22s for my SLT before I signed the paperwork. Oh well maybe next time....

Posted

18s can look ****ing killer on out trucks id consider them... That's what I'm probably going to do 640140f858a880429742a2f682a0ef46.jpgdf686fc1061391a89a7d6deee1d194be.jpg

 

Just get a nice tire and right offset will look killer be different

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Posted

18s can look ****ing killer on out trucks id consider them... That's what I'm probably going to do 640140f858a880429742a2f682a0ef46.jpgdf686fc1061391a89a7d6deee1d194be.jpg

 

Just get a nice tire and right offset will look killer be different

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Agree 100%, that's a great look. 18 or 20 with a zero offset is just about perfect on these trucks. If I were to start over, I'd go 18s with +0 and 33x12.5.

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

Posted

Agree 100%, that's a great look. 18 or 20 with a zero offset is just about perfect on these trucks. If I were to start over, I'd go 18s with +0 and 33x12.5.

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

I'm probably going to do a - 12 offset with a 5.00 back space that's what the wheels in the picture are and they look awesome...

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Posted

I'm probably going to do a - 12 offset with a 5.00 back space that's what the wheels in the picture are and they look awesome...

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

I'm at -12 technically with 1.5" spacers. I think 0 is better cause you're less likely to rub with just a level. Negative offsets leads to rubbing unless you lift.

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I included the first gen-cylinder de-activation (active fuel management) in my statement.
    • Hello All!   My 2019 Colorado 3.6 LT, 4WD Crew Cab has approximately 77,500 miles and I recently began experiencing the well-known transmission shudder between about 30 and 65 mph. The problem had worsened to the point that I could no longer attribute it to road conditions - and I had decided to bring the truck to the dealer - when recently, I experienced a sudden loss of power while driving at maybe 40 MPH. Several warning lights flashed, the “Check Stabilitrack” message appeared, and the Check Engine, Stabilitrack, and Traction Control icons remained illuminated. The truck regained driving power, but it stayed in a low gear with unusually high RPMs for the speed. (limp mode?) Because I was only about two miles from home, driving slowly, I was able to make it back and run an OBD-II scan, which showed fault codes U0101, P0700, and U0100. My next trip in the truck was to drive it to the dealer the following day. That trip began normally, but after about a mile I experienced another loss of power, along with the same warning lights and the same “Check Stabilitrack” message. As before the truck remained driveable, but again operated at an abnormally high RPM-to-speed ratio and seemed stuck in a single gear. About a mile later, the dashboard lit up once more, this time displaying “Check 4WD.” Soon after that, I arrived at the dealer. I have verified that the truck still has its original factory transmission fluid, which means it has never received the corrective fluid exchange outlined in GM Technical Service Bulletin #18-NA-355.  That was Thursday of last week and I've heard nothing yet from the dealer.    According to Technical Service Bulletin #18-NA-355 and the build date of my truck, my truck should have the newer LV fluid. I've done a little research and read something about a problem with the wiring harness as well.   Anyone have an insights into this situation?  Thank you!!
    • Having bumper and other body damages can be very frustrating, especially as a result of a parking lot collision/bump. Our team wants to learn more about the damages to your truck so we can look into ways we might be able to help. When you get the chance, please fill out our support form with more details: https://s.gmc.com/support-request . A member of our team will follow up with you as soon as next available. We want to get you enjoying your truck to the fullest again. 
    • Did you even read this article?   Even the title of the article says "U.S.-Iran Deal Doesn’t Mean a Swift Return of Oil and Gas Flows"   Remember, crude oil prices are based on FUTURE purchases by the oil companies.  Gas prices are based on FUTURE purchases by the station.  This article stated that many of the oil producing nations have to restart their processes to get the oil produced.  Then the oil has to be shipped to wherever.  And it doesn't get there overnight.  And most of that oil is not coming here. Check out this site:  https://afdc.energy.gov/data/10621   A graph will pop up to show where the US imports their oil from.  Notice that there isn't a lot of import from OPEC and Iraq.  Most of the US import comes from Canada. The US oil produces are selling their oil on the open market, which is why the US fuel costs went up.  So you're correct, the US oil companies are going to slow walk the price downward.
    • Having codes and an engine light with no hints on what might be causing it is nothing short of frustrating. How long have these concerns been present? We want to know more so we can look into ways we might be able to help you. When you get the chance, please fill out our support form with additional details on your experience so far. A member of our team will follow up with you as soon as next available: https://s.gmc.com/support-request 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...