Jump to content

Fox 2.0 arrived today!

Travis Whitmore

Recommended Posts

Travis Whitmore Enthusiast

Travis Whitmore

Posted
Posted

My new Fox 2.0 coilovers and matching rear shocks arrived today. I decided to try and improve the ride on my truck and ditch the Rancho suspension and the leveling blocks I installed a few weeks ago. Hope to install them Monday and I'll report back!

 

Drop shipped from Fox it seems a little crazy this is how they ship $1000 worth of suspension parts but nothing was damaged.

 

ab5a16edcf3de2faf11b077515f951b3.jpg

f085475bd52046ac579c6db08cb54077.jpg

1168e886e70c7da70404ddff8b2e75d0.jpg

2b7a8c89a596158ab0177ae8d5e4137c.jpg

1312d3a2f517917484fbacb694136e8b.jpg

42cbfa0c40ab6b7d679f75df0f8e24d3.jpg

526511613e39c8e593fb300abdc934c8.jpg

  • Replies 88
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Travis Whitmore Enthusiast

Travis Whitmore

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The bolts that attach them to the lower control arm concern me a bit. They thread into the strut mount and the directions say torque to 50ft/lbs. there is no nylock nut, lock washer or anything for the top. Just torque and pressure to keep them secure.

dbcooper748 Enthusiast

dbcooper748

Posted
Posted

The bolts that attach them to the lower control arm concern me a bit. They thread into the strut mount and the directions say torque to 50ft/lbs. there is no nylock nut, lock washer or anything for the top. Just torque and pressure to keep them secure.

How do u keep the truck aligned? Just choose a height setting, get it aligned, and stay with it, i assume?

Travis Whitmore Enthusiast

Travis Whitmore

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I guess so. Just paid for an alignment but oh well. I'm guessing since the fox set up will be shorter than the OEM strut spacer combo my alignment will be way off again. Fox told me they ship at 1.5" lift. I'll need to get a spring compressor and adjust them to 2" lift before I install them.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

peejaykay Enthusiast

peejaykay

Posted
Posted

I would like to know how these handle towing a heavy load. I want a lift, but am concerned these lift shocks wouldn't be able to handle the load.

Nolasaintz Enthusiast

Nolasaintz

Posted
Posted

When I installed my shocks, they were supposed to be set at 2" of lift. They lifted the front my truck 3 1/2".

 

I had to remove them, buy a spring compressor from Sears, and guess how much to adjust them.

 

Right now they're a little under 2 1/2" of lift. From the bottom of the adjustment ring to the first thread on the bottom of the shock body, I'm at 15/16" measured with a tape. I can count 13 threads from the bottom of the collar.

 

They ride pretty rough/stiff on our crappy south Louisiana roads at this height. I had Bilstein's set at the 3rd setting(1 1/4") with a 1" lower shock spacer, and these ride slightly better than that. They do handle whoops in the road really well though. Potholes, patches, and expansion joints are rough which I expected. I don't think any coilover set to give 2" or more would ride well on road anyway. I plan on adding a Zone 1.5" body lift and adjusting the shocks for about 1" of lift. Should smooth things out.

Travis Whitmore Enthusiast

Travis Whitmore

Posted
  • Author
Posted

When I installed my shocks, they were supposed to be set at 2" of lift. They lifted the front my truck 3 1/2".

 

I had to remove them, buy a spring compressor from Sears, and guess how much to adjust them.

 

Right now they're a little under 2 1/2" of lift. From the bottom of the adjustment ring to the first thread on the bottom of the shock body, I'm at 15/16" measured with a tape. I can count 13 threads from the bottom of the collar.

Do you have aluminum control arms? If so did you order the ones for aluminum? Apparently they are shorter than the ones for trucks with steel arms. The rep at Fox told me they come set at 1.5" maybe I'll install them first and see where the truck sits. He did say the adjustment gives a 1 to 1 lift.
Nolasaintz Enthusiast

Nolasaintz

Posted
Posted

I have the steel control arms. Hopefully yours will be set at 1.5", pain in the butt to adjust at home in the garage.

 

Good luck with the install, post up some pics when ya done!

tig488 Enthusiast

tig488

Posted
Posted

don't know if these are different but when i had coil overs on my car i would change the height setting without a compressor. i just turned the adjusting nut with the supplied tool and that was it.

Gc773 Enthusiast

Gc773

Posted
Posted

TeeDub, I received Fox 2.0 (983-02-086) and awaiting for the install later this week. Interesting observation, if we both indeed have the same part number, I counted 19 threads on my and 29 threads on the pics you provided for your 2.0.

 

I contacted the retailer / shop I ordered the Fox 2.0 from and asked for some parameters I regard to height and thread count. This is the answer I received. It's right on point and makes complete sense.

 

 

"There is really no way to tell how much adjustment is needed to achieve a specific lift height on any given truck."

 

"This coilover fits a standard cab, double cab and crew cab truck. It fits every engine option and series from the most stripped down work truck to the most fully loaded model. The shocks fit 2wd and 4x4 models. The problem is different trucks have very different weights over the wheels. The lighter in weight the truck is the more lift the coilover will provide at the same setting versus a heavier truck."

 

"The coilover spring preload can be adjusted after the shocks have been installed. You do not need to remove the shocks from the vehicle to adjust the lift height. Our advice is to install the coilover as-is and drive it around the neighborhood. The coil springs will usually lose a very small amount of height as they take their set. You can then adjust the coilover spring preload to achieve your desired lift height. Once the ride height has been set you can get the truck re-aligned."

 

Let us know how you made out with the preset adjustment. Heck,it may same me some time and effort if it raises your truck too much or not.

Cheers

Nolasaintz Enthusiast

Nolasaintz

Posted
Posted

IIRC I had 19 threads showing on mine out of box. I do have a 2wd, so weight is alittle less than 4wd.

 

I couldn't adjust mine on the truck at all, the collar would not move. I contacted Fox, and they suggested taking them off to adjust. They were actually pretty hard to adjust compressed with the spring compressor.

crafferty Senior Enthusiast

crafferty

Posted
Posted

The bolts that attach them to the lower control arm concern me a bit. They thread into the strut mount and the directions say torque to 50ft/lbs. there is no nylock nut, lock washer or anything for the top. Just torque and pressure to keep them secure.

You've got nothing to worry about. I have over 7,000 miles on my Fox 2.5 coilovers with external reservoir and not a single issue.

Omar1 Enthusiast

Omar1

Posted
Posted

Part number for these shocks? Those for 2014-2016 silverado with aluminium control arms?

 

I'm willing to order this too.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I will be doing that for sure, but I need to solve who has/ where I can find a bidirectional scan tool that will support OBD 1.5. I'm kicking myself because I ebay'ed a Snap On MT2500 that I didn't think I'd ever need anymore. D'oh!! I'd rather not buy another, so I'll contact a few local shops to see if they have one and how much they'd want to do the procedure. I'd rather have the ability to do it myself... I wish there was a modern tool that could do it all, but I'd have no idea what to buy.   The theory with the pulled timing is that it mimics a rich condition. The delayed spark causes incomplete burn and the O2 sensor picks up low oxygen levels. That's interpreted as a rich condition so the PCM pulls fuel and that shows up in the deeply negative fuel trims.
    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      An ultra wealthy man had the most beautiful daughter. But, there was a problem. Everything she touched would melt in her hands. No matter what, Metal, Wood, Stone. Anything she touched would melt. She could not feed herself. Because of this, men were afraid of her. Nobody would dare marry her. Her father was despaired. What could he do to help his daughter? He consulted doctors, scientists and anybody who could solve this problem. Finally one of them said, "If your daughter touches one thing that does not melt in her hands, she will be cured." He was overjoyed and came up with a plan. The next day, he held a competition. Any man who could bring his daughter an object that would not melt in her hands would be given billions of dollars to marry her. Three extremely intelligent and handsome young men took up the challenge. The first brought a very heavy steel rod, But alas, when the she touched it, it completely melted in a matter of seconds. He sadly went away. The second brought a beautiful diamond, knowing diamonds were one of the hardest substance in the world and would not melt. But alas, once she held it in her hand, it melted. He too was sent away disappointed. So now, there was one left He was very nervous & sweating. He approached the daughter & said, “put your hand in my pants pocket and feel what is in there." She did exactly what he asked. She felt something very hard. She held it in her hand, squeezing it as hard as she could. It did not melt & remained extremely hard. Her father was overjoyed. Everybody was overjoyed. She was finally cured. Nothing never, ever melted in her hand again. They married and they both lived happily ever after, raising a wonderful family. Question: What was in the the groom’s pants pocket??? Answer below ↓ M&Ms of course! They melt in your mouth, not in your hand. What on earth were you thinking?
    • asilverblazer
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      There's a bunch of tea leaves that you've read, but in any case the delayed timing is unusual. Not sure how that relates to the rich at idle vs. 'normal' while driving.   If you're in this deep, might be worth investigating, and re-learning the sensor. What have you got to lose? Plus, it properly fixes the timing cover leak.
    • asilverblazer
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      The only problem I have seen this cause is longer crank times. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Injector is being sent off today for rebuild and I estimate I'll have it back in 10 days or so.   It may not be the injector...of course...now that I've torn down the intake again. But, let's rule out the injector and replace those spider legs that have been almost rubbed through.   The truck has always had negative timing and I'm reading "normal" timing at warm idle should be +16 or so. I'm negative 16 to 25 or more, and it's always been like that since I bought it.   A light turned on upstairs last night in the old noggin. Rare, I know...   This will be wild, if it turns out to be the cause!   In 2001, according to the old service documentation, the muffler was replaced. Why? I have no idea, it wouldn't have been rusted through by then. But they did a crappy job.   In 2019, another shop replaced it and noted the prior install was poorly done on the work order. "Exhaust system vibrates on crossmember". Except...I guess they just left it be? I believe the husband, the couple who were original owners, had passed by then. Maybe she said it's just not worth it to have the exhaust system fixed and declined repairs. Very few miles were driven between 2019 and 2025.   The exhaust system vibrates heavily on the crossmember and you can feel it and REALLY hear it, even today. Not always, but at idle, it gets going pretty good sometimes.   What if....   ....What if that's enough to trigger one or both of the knock sensors? Could it be tricking the sensors into sensing knock, so it's pulling timing aggressively? Pulling timing heavily means it's firing after the piston reaches full height which means incomplete burn which means the O2 sensor is sensing a rich condition, which means I've been chasing my tail, and what I thought was an inconsequential problem (janky exhaust) has been THE issue for this truck for 25 solid years?   That would be wild. Maybe it IS wild.   The service documentation thereafter, for years, shows visits for rough idle, replacing O2's, replacing the cat, replacing plugs and wires, a misfire condition, like they could never solve the issue. The injector has been replaced 4 times in 80k miles, that's just crazy.   The secondary theory....   The engine has clearly had a leak at the front seal for a very long time (the greasy trench...). I think the truck changed hands quickly ~2025 because there's Napa receipts from someone I don't recognize in the ownership history. They apparently replaced the timing cover seal, and they did a terrible job. There's RTV smeared all over and the leak I had reduced to a weep by snugging the front oil pan bolts is now a leak again.   HOWEVER....I read about replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Any time the ckp sensor is disturbed or timing cover is removed, the truck requires relearning, and that can only be done through a bi-directional scan tool. Skippy with the RTV probably didn't do the relearn procedure is my guess. His scan tool is lost in a pile of RTV goo somewhere.   So, it's very possible the sensor has been disturbed and the truck is just running on the old learn data but not setting a code for anything. The distributor has since been replaced and so has the camshaft position sensor, so all bets are off for that thing.   In the theme of one step forward, two steps back, I returned the accumulator for the AC. The gal I've been working with at O'Really's has been great. She refunded it under manufacturer's defect and we compared it to the replacement I ordered, and sure enough, the replacement is machined very differently (and a gauge actually fits on it!).   Got it home, installed it, started vacuuming it down.... and I couldn't get good vacuum.   The high side service port, where I replaced the old GM ball valve suspecting that was a source of the previous leak....well, I've clearly exposed whatever pre-existing crack in the line where the service port is welded, and made it much worse. Blessing in disguise? Except there goes another $25, now I'm waiting for a replacement AC line.   In 10-ish days ALL the parts will be here. Rebuilt injector, new exhaust system, new cat, new high pressure AC line.   Oh, did I mention the squeaking ISN'T coming from the AC pump? The truck still squeaks when started, and there were words after I started it with the new AC pump installed. But, there was more to replacing the AC pump for just a squeak. A truck with good working AC is something of value, for the comfort alone.   I've ordered a new harmonic balancer because, 30 years is a good run for one of those. Rule it out. The squeak may be something more sinister, though. I'm worried about that ckp sensor and if it was shimmed correctly, or if the timing set was installed correctly. The squeak may be coming from UNDER the timing cover.   At this point, once I get it put back together, I'm thinking I'll take a 50 mile victory lap and then promptly put it up for sale. This truck is cursed. Betty, from beyond the grave, doesn't want anyone messing with her Blazer. Or maybe she's getting revenge for 30 years of shop visits with that thing.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...