Jump to content

Calling all Diablo Intune users.


Recommended Posts

Posted

Im working with lew on a tune now, just got back the first "custom" tune ( before the WOT log). Definatly not as good as the Diablo tune so far, but ill wait until hes done before i judge

How did the custom tune turn out? Would you recommend?

  • Replies 34
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I guess im the only one running the TM on, i am also running hard shift program. I have a heavy foot and just wasnt comfortable with no TM

Can you explain more in depth on what it feels like and how the overall driving is with TM on vs off and also incombination with the hard shift; I'm trying to figure out if I want TM on or off. I mostly just want a smooth comfortable ride.

 

Also how did the custom diablew tune work out, better or worse than the canned tune? Thanks

Posted

DiabloSport i2030. I've been running the canned 87/89 octane tune with firm shift, TM on and speed limiter off, and AMF ON for a week now. I've logged 320 miles, with 200 being highway miles speeds of 55-70 mph. I'm currently at 19.8mpg for those 320 miles. Throttle response is crisper, shifting more positive and it does not hunt for the right gear as much. Something else I noticed is it will hold V8 mode longer and takes a feather light pedal for it to go the V4. Before the tune it would sometimes go in V4 going up hill and be lugging. One other thing I have done that the tune can't, is I deactivate grade braking. This in itself made a big improvement in shifting and also helped milage.

Posted

Just curious, aren't you guys worried about if your truck needs warranty work? I put bigger rims and tires and want to do a tune but the people in my area prefer not to do them on my truck because it voids all warranty work.

 

Thanks

I also have this same question. Can someone please elaborate? I want to purchase this tuner but I don't want to void my warranty. Any way to run the tune and just return it to stock if repairs need to be done? Can they detect if you have been running a tune on the vehicle?

Posted

You can return it to stock because it stores it. Whether it can be detected I'd debatable.

Posted

I also have this same question. Can someone please elaborate? I want to purchase this tuner but I don't want to void my warranty. Any way to run the tune and just return it to stock if repairs need to be done? Can they detect if you have been running a tune on the vehicle?

Yes they can see that the ECM has been flashed? Yes.... Will they care? Probably not unless you blow a motor or trans.

Posted

I bought a Hypertech for my 2016 6.2. I have taken the tune back out now and I am only using the hand held programmer to adjust the AFM to only come on above 50mph and tweaked the top speed up a bit. I found that the tune caused a engine click when in V4 mode with slight acceleration at around 1250 to 1400 rpm. It sounds like preignition (pinging) I am not convinced that any of the tuners can set the engine up to work with the AFM in operation. Sad to say but if you plan on leaving the AFM operational you probably need to use the factory tune................ Tune seems to work great if you turn the AFM completely off though. I just like the little bit of extra fuel mileage with the AFM in operation. It drops about 2mpg when the AFM is shut completely off.

post-127028-0-28094300-1476485477_thumb.jpg

post-127028-0-28094300-1476485477_thumb.jpg

post-127028-0-28094300-1476485477_thumb.jpg

Posted

If you don't know what torque management does, leave it on or if you plan to keep the truck for a long time. Otherwise you will just wear it out quicker.

Posted

I bought a Hypertech for my 2016 6.2. I have taken the tune back out now and I am only using the hand held programmer to adjust the AFM to only come on above 50mph and tweaked the top speed up a bit. I found that the tune caused a engine click when in V4 mode with slight acceleration at around 1250 to 1400 rpm. It sounds like preignition (pinging) I am not convinced that any of the tuners can set the engine up to work with the AFM in operation. Sad to say but if you plan on leaving the AFM operational you probably need to use the factory tune................ Tune seems to work great if you turn the AFM completely off though. I just like the little bit of extra fuel mileage with the AFM in operation. It drops about 2mpg when the AFM is shut completely off.

Good to know about adjusting when afm kicks in. I never wanted to turn it off due to hwy driving, so I never even went to that option. I On another note, I have a 5.3 with the diablo high octane tune and don't have any issues in and/or out of 4 cyl mode. Maybe it the already high octane tuning of the 6.2 thing.

Posted

Anyone with high mileage on their truck after using the tune? like 80-100k miles?
Curious about longevity and getting ready to order one of these from Lew.

Posted

Anyone with high mileage on their truck after using the tune? like 80-100k miles?

Curious about longevity and getting ready to order one of these from Lew.

 

+1

Posted

vettedreamer, on 23 Jan 2017 - 4:30 PM, said:

I installed Sprint Booster and am very happy with the results

 

https://www.sprintboostersales.com/

 

So I've just been researching this sprintbooster thing, never knew it existed, pretty interesting.

 

My question is though, on a hand held Diablo Sport tuner, there is an adjustment called "throttle boost" which I believe you can turn up to 20%. Does this throttle boost setting on the Diablo Sport tuner do the exact same thing as this sprintbooster thing?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Well just so everyone knows, AutoAnything is having a 20% off sale for presidents day and with the price they have the diablosport tuners, I got the I2 for $287 shipped. Pretty crazy good deal!

​Just use the code POTUS20

Posted

Well just so everyone knows, AutoAnything is having a 20% off sale for presidents day and with the price they have the diablosport tuners, I got the I2 for $287 shipped. Pretty crazy good deal!

​Just use the code POTUS20

Thank you! Bought mine in January, auto anything has a 1 year price guarantee, currently working on a refund for the difference of my original price.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I was building a HD 3500 srw, maybe I was lost.
    • No doubt, I definitely agree with you. However, considering the 6.2 and 3.0 have been catastrophically failing with very little miles, I figured I would put trouble free. I’m at 18,4xx and still not a single issue.  
    • It’s never dry here but it gets hot. My 4 vehicles I keep at home drive an 18 mile loop. One 6 days a week. Two about 3 days each and one once a month. Only one goes on trips about 4 times a year 1000 to 2000 miles each time. One 26 years old gets driven once a month for 22 years. One 14 years old goes 6 days a week. The other two are recent at 2 and 4 years. All are performing normal no extra service other than that would be half of recommended or severe service in the maintenance manual. No extra water or steam out the exhaust or premature plug wear. I would consider an 18 mile loop would be enough. So apparently once a month at 18 miles for 22 years has kept the collector car running well. About 45 minutes a month. 
    • It is working as designed.  NHT and non NHT trucks have the same exact transmission cooling setup.  NHT just gets a larger radiator.     The transmission cooler loop on these is as follows.     -Transmission out goes into an oil to water heat exchanger (item #1 in the first illustration below).  This exchanger has engine coolant opposite the transmission fluid and uses engine coolant to warm and then regulate the transmission fluid temperature when its in the operating window.   - From the cooler it goes to a thermal bypass valve (item #11 in the 2nd illustration below).  If the ATF has not reached the temp to open the bypass (194F), it loops back.   - When it reaches 194F, the thermostat opens and ATF then flows out to the oil to air auxiliary cooler (item #17 in the 2nd illustration) at the front of the truck.  From there it goes back to the transmission.     Your only fix would be to swap for the PPE thermal bypass delete block which will open the loop to the aux cooler all the time.  It will STILL run warm, probably 170-200F, but that's as low as you'll get it as its still flowing through the oil to water exchanger.      
    • Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes.   On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD  indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉    You keep the Camaro's high and tight.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...