Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Guys we have 2 sets of lights at a good price hade 8 sets to start and this is the last 2 sets.

 

PM sent several days ago still waiting for a reply.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Harness runs about $199 and the lights are whatever you can find them for on ebay or local junkyards. Around $790 each side seems to be cheapest direct from GM while they can be found as low as $300 w/ missing tabs, scratches etc.

 

Gen5diy has the correct harness and sometimes the lights... .

Posted

Sorry I'm a little late, I've been in the Caribbean for a little over a week and just getting around to posting pictures. I know there was a lot of fuss of whether or not the SLT lights would so I bit the bullet and bought a used set to test. I got the lights and with the help of a fried who owns a 16 and you guys providing a pin out I was able to get the light working. The only issue I found was the DRL did not cut off when the turn signal was activated. Some may like this some may not. I however do not. When the sun is out full force and the DRL is at full brightness the LED turn signal is a little faint. Plus i'm picky and would like to stay close as factory options as possible. With all that being said I figured a switchback circuit inline with the adapter would cut the DRL off once the turn signal got power. Only problem is I have no clue how to build one so I reached out to GEN5 and they were more than helpful. I sent my light to Jarrod a little over 2.5 months ago and the process of building a harness began. For you guys that already have the SLT lights you can thank me later, JK. Anyways the harness for the 14-15 SLT is still being tweaked as its different from the SLE's but here you go.

 

Still have a couple kinks to work out but they work. Switchback circuit is being. No biggie Offer is on it as we speak.

 

SLT lights part numbers:

23506752

23506753

 

The harness

HLdyIKE.jpg

 

One of the issues

vJRJvor.jpg

 

Out with the old in with the new

0vZ81v1.jpg

 

Things were a little dirty so what better time to pressure wash

Kb3yP3b.jpg

 

We have some light

f37uXmO.jpg

 

Headlights work, thats a plus

4chgPrL.jpg

 

all done for now

hVCbuo6.jpg

qfYsmhX.jpg

Hi...your truck looks awesome!!.... besides the small issue with the daytime lights not going off when you use signal light, were the 2016 lights just simple "plug n Play"?...also, is 2016 SIERRA, SLE, SLT the same light?...thanks

Posted

Hi...your truck looks awesome!!.... besides the small issue with the daytime lights not going off when you use signal light, were the 2016 lights just simple "plug n Play"?...also, is 2016 SIERRA, SLE, SLT the same light?...thanks

Thanks! Yeah with the gen5 harness its all plug n play. The DRL's cutting off with the turn signal is about to be fixed. I'm working with Jarod with a solution. The SLE is different from the SLT. The SLE has a halogen turn signal in the center of the light instead of the LED and the headlight is HID where the SLT is LED.

Posted

Thanks! Yeah with the gen5 harness its all plug n play. The DRL's cutting off with the turn signal is about to be fixed. I'm working with Jarod with a solution. The SLE is different from the SLT. The SLE has a halogen turn signal in the center of the light instead of the LED and the headlight is HID where the SLT is LED.

 

If I have a 2014 SLE would I be able to buy the 2016 SLT lights with LED turn signal and LED bulbs and have a harness from Gen5 work as plug and play?

Posted

 

If I have a 2014 SLE would I be able to buy the 2016 SLT lights with LED turn signal and LED bulbs and have a harness from Gen5 work as plug and play?

Yep. Everything should be the same expect your DRL will now be LED instead of the headlights.

Posted

 

 

SLT lights part numbers:

23506752

23506753

f37uXmO.jpg

 

 

 

I have a question. When I look up the headlights just going by year, make, model.... It bring up the headlights for Sierra and Silverado.

The part number you have listed here is shown as Sierra; W/O LED; Left or Right. Which LED is it talking about I wonder? It has another listing for Sierra; W/ LED left and right for a cheaper price. It has me confused.

Posted

 

SLT lights part numbers:

23506752

23506753

f37uXmO.jpg

 

 

 

I have a question. When I look up the headlights just going by year, make, model.... It bring up the headlights for Sierra and Silverado.

The part number you have listed here is shown as Sierra; W/O LED; Left or Right. Which LED is it talking about I wonder? It has another listing for Sierra; W/ LED left and right for a cheaper price. It has me confused.

The sle model is different and has no led blinker is the only thing I can think of. Those part #s are from the back of each of my lights

Posted (edited)

So, I've been following this topic for a while and finally had some time to play around with a circuit to turn the DRL off when the turn signal is flashing.

 

drl-cancel_zpsk0yaxiii.png

 

Plot_zpsuabj6ukz.png

 

I have no idea what Gen5 is working on but I got this circuit to work in a simulator.

 

V1 is the DRL switched power supply.

V2 is the flashing signal in the light harness for the turn signal.

The "Turn Cancel" switch is not an actual circuit item; I just used it to simulate the turn signal being shut off at t=10s.

"Turn" is the turn signal LED

R3 is the LED load resistor to prevent hyperflash.

C1 is a capacitor that is charged by the turn signal every time it flashes.

D2 prevents the capacitor from providing power to the turn signal LED when the flasher in in between flashes and after it is shut off.

R1 controls the rate of discharge of the capacitor to be longer than the duration of the flash. This keeps the voltage to the base of the NPN transistor above the "on threshold" even when the flasher is in between flashes.

R2 limits the emitter current of the transistor.

 

As long as the "on threshold" is met, the transistor allows current to flow through the relay coil, disconnecting the DRL LED power supply.

 

When the turn signal is turned off (simulated by opening the "Turn Cancel" switch at t=10s) the capacitor fully discharges and the transistor switches off, releasing the relay, and restoring power to the DRL LED.

 

The TVS Diode prevents the high voltage spike generated by the magnetic field of the relay coil collapsing when it is turned off.

Edited by aflesch
  • Like 3
Posted

So, I've been following this topic for a while and finally had some time to play around with a circuit to turn the DRL off when the turn signal is flashing.

 

drl-cancel_zpsk0yaxiii.png

 

Plot_zpsuabj6ukz.png

 

I have no idea what Gen5 is working on but I got this circuit to work in a simulator.

 

V1 is the DRL switched power supply.

V2 is the flashing signal in the light harness for the turn signal.

The "Turn Cancel" switch is not an actual circuit item; I just used it to simulate the turn signal being shut off at t=10s.

"Turn" is the turn signal LED

R3 is the LED load resistor to prevent hyperflash.

C1 is a capacitor that is charged by the turn signal every time it flashes.

D2 prevents the capacitor from providing power to the turn signal LED when the flasher in in between flashes and after it is shut off.

R1 controls the rate of discharge of the capacitor to be longer than the duration of the flash. This keeps the voltage to the base of the NPN transistor above the "on threshold" even when the flasher is in between flashes.

R2 limits the emitter current of the transistor.

 

As long as the "on threshold" is met, the transistor allows current to flow through the relay coil, disconnecting the DRL LED power supply.

 

When the turn signal is turned off (simulated by opening the "Turn Cancel" switch at t=10s) the capacitor fully discharges and the transistor switches off, releasing the relay, and restoring power to the DRL LED.

 

The TVS Diode prevents the high voltage spike generated by the magnetic field of the relay coil collapsing when it is turned off.

Nice work! I will pass along the info. I'm taking a simpler approach at the moment using these: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/led-lighting/led-halos-strips/morimoto-xchange-switchback-drivers.html#.V3O_VbgrK71 I figure for the price its easier than making a switchback circuit. Should know before the weekend if they work or not.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks JR that would be great if you could do that !!! Do you have a link to where this was discussed before ? I cant seem to find it  Thank You Again !
    • Oil pump noise was discussed before.  I will try to remember to record a remote start later this morning. 
    • There are probably a few threads talking about fuel mileage but this one seemed to fit the stats I have seen based on my typical local driven route but with different outcomes based on different seasons/temperatures. I have a few hundred pounds of items that consistently ride on the truck at all times such as a bak flip cover, rubber bed mat, tools and extra fuel so I would be something over 8100 lb without me in the truck. All these examples are based on a 100 mile round trip to a town plus running around town so maybe 110 to 120 miles in total for a trip. Using regular fuel and I assume it always has some ethanol in it but don't know the percentage they blend in. Also speed wise I am going at 62 mph and non aggressive driving although less speed yet if its crappy winter condition roads. I am going by an initial reset of the computer generated fuel use numbers averaged over a couple of thousand miles or so for each weather/season so they may be more optimistic then actual hand calculated numbers. Basically this is painting a picture of doing the same drive but seasonal conditions and temperature being the major variable to the end result. Oh and although I am in Alberta Canada, I am converting it to miles per US gallon so there is no confusion.    So winter time it gets cold here, no real surprise there and the roads can be clear at times but also often have packed rough snow or are are driving through loose snow ( they do a poor job of plowing the highways ) and yes this includes the extra idle engine time due to trying not to freeze ones butt off. 12.7 mpg is what I was getting during the winter months on average.    Then during the spring when it was around the freezing point and the highways are clear of snow, I was getting around 14.25 mpg.   Summer time, I have been getting around 15.15 on average but certainly some of the trips showed quite a bit better fuel mileage, so much depended on how much or little I had driven around town and number of engine restarts after sitting for a while at each location. But stating a best fuel mileage trip to town pretending that is what the truck gets on average is fooling ones self for sure !.      As I said in a different post, I had driven a 645 mile trip over a couple of days stint to a different destination then these other daily to town examples above, and was done during the summer with nice weather and not bucking a head wind, also keeping at 62 mph and its a rolling landscape type highway drive ( this isn't southern Alberta or Saskatchewan flat lands ) Hand calculated fuel mileage in this case though and it came out to 17.65
    • On my wife's 2020 Blazer (~69000 miles), we started to notice the brakes pulsating at faster speeds. Typically around town you don't notice anything, but highway/interstate driving you will notice it. I decided to pull of the front tires and look at the brakes. I figured with the milage, the pads should be wearing out to their life span, but they actually looked decent. Still with "meat" on them. One pad has a ridge wearing in it, and that same rotor is showing the ridge too. That's not the concerning part...the other rotor appears to have a raised bump on it!  The picture make it look like a pimple! Very odd and strange! NOTE: These are the factory brakes and rotors.   I'm attaching pictures of the front brakes and what they look like ate ~69000 miles.
    • 2024 Chevrolet 2500 HD Custom 6.6 Gas Canadian built Truck  I tried to search for my previous thread on this topic but cant find it so my apoligies  for starting another one    #1   Since we have owned our truck purchased new it has this strange noise after using the remote start function  you press the remote start and you hear it start but right at the end of it starting it almost seems like it wants to start again after the truck is running .   There is no gap in time it is right at the end of the start . Almost sounds like when you have started a car/truck and its running and then you try and start it again and you get that grinding noise ,sort of     #2  You can only hear this if you are standing outside of the truck and near the truck  you cant hear it when you start the truck from inside  the cab . So it may very well be happening when starting the truck that way as in normally    #3   This only happens when it is started after sitting . For how long I don't know but it happens after sitting overnight for sure and it wont do it if you stop the engine after starting and then start it again  I have had it in to the Dealership before concerning this but they did not have the truck  when it was cold to hear it . Now its back in the Dealership left it overnight so they could possibly hear the problem . They said they tried and nothing happened . Well they did not know what they were listening for . I started the truck remotely and BINGO it makes the noise . Oh that sounds weird they say . We need to look into it ! I have left for this week at the Dealership    Does your 2024 2500 HD gas do this ?  Any of you fellas care to take the time and trouble to film this operation from a cold start  so I can hear what your sound like  Really  would like to know if this is anormal sound  Thank You Fellas !!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...