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First brake job?


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Posted

How long is everyone getting out of their brakes? I am starting to get a squeal, but im just over 30k miles. Not sure they should be bad this soon, but havent got a chance to get the wheels off to take a look. Just curious what everyone else has been seeing.

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Posted

I actually just changed the brakes on my Dad's 2014 Silverado. His truck has 48K miles on it, but pads had easily half their life left. Only reason we changed them was because the shop that rotated his tires said his brakes were shot, so he ordered the powerstop brake kit for the front before even really checking them. So he decided he already paid the money, and just to upgrade them. Best bet is just to pull a tire.

Posted

I got only 36k miles on my brakes on my 2014 Sierra. I feel like some people are able to go much longer, but they probably also have tires that last the entire claimed tire-life too (my tires lasted 39k miles). I do think the brake life should have been much better than 36k miles with no towing.

 

I've posted about this before, but I should not have allowed the dealer to resurface the rotors. I think the rotor's life is much better than the pads, and by surfacing the rotors, you loose the FNC coating that keeps the rotors from corroding as quickly and helps with brake dust. I can vouch that I'm getting a LOT more brake dust all over my front wheels now with my resurfaced rotors.

Posted

How long is everyone getting out of their brakes? I am starting to get a squeal, but im just over 30k miles. Not sure they should be bad this soon, but havent got a chance to get the wheels off to take a look. Just curious what everyone else has been seeing.

 

I have the same issue tungsten. . When the truck hit around 30,000 I started to hear a squeal . The pads still have plenty of life left. It seems like it is getting worse . I am no brake expert but just because your hearing a squeal doesn't mean you need new pads .i know brake dust can cause it but I don't think that is my issue. Could the sound be caused by the calibers?

Posted

Ya a lot of times on the hot summer days your brakes will squeal a little with plenty of life left on the pads and disc. I haven't heard any brake noise on mine yet with 25,000 miles. I read that you should get around 100,000 miles or even more on factory brakes. All I can say is thank God the rears are disc also and not drums. Not just for performance, but because I can't stand replacing shoes with all the springs and stuff that goes with drum brakes. It's not rocket science, but disc brakes are just so much easier to work on, at least for me.

Posted

A squeal could result from glazed pads. I pull the pads and hit them with a sanding disk, clean the gas ports or slots , add some anti squeak lube and chamfer the leading pad edge to stop that.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have got 61,xxx on my 2014 crew cab. My inboards are shot, outboards are low and the front rotors are grooved in a couple spots, right rear grooved on inboard side. I am actually on here to see if anyone has gotten cross drilled and slotted rotors and what brand they went with.. I am needing to order everything to replace it all this week, plans for the upcoming weekend require good breaks.

Posted

All good input.

As far as mileage, depends on how you drive, towing, quality of pads, shoes.

My brakes last twice as long as the wife's do. She's on the gas to the last and then on the brakes.

 

As far as rotors, drums I never turn them but I don't let it get metal to metal to damage them. I used the OEM rotors on my 93 until 200k miles. The rear drums were never changed.

Posted

Well, I purchased Bosch QuietCast rotors for the rears and the all new Wagner OEX Pads for the rear. The front I ordered Power Stop (G3000 grade) cross-drilled and slotted rotors with Power Stop Extreme Z36 pads to go along. So we shall see how it all performs in a few days. Hoping to change everything out on Wed or Thursday evening. I will let you all know how it goes.

Posted

A squeal could result from glazed pads. I pull the pads and hit them with a sanding disk, clean the gas ports or slots , add some anti squeak lube and chamfer the leading pad edge to stop that.

 

Great advice - just what I'd do. Maybe 400 grit wet sand the rotors as well to dull em up. Can of brake cleaning spray and some rags to clean everything. One thing often overlooked is the pins for the caliper that the pads slide on need to be removed periodically, rust and dirt removed, then lubed with high temp grease. If they are bunged up then the pads dont release fully ... drag and squeal. Havent had mine apart, so they may have a different arrangement than pins ... seen different design where caliper has slots, the pads 'ears' slide in. Same deal ... remove calipers and clean (small wire brush) and service. Care not to get lube on rotor and pads. Only need a film, more to prevent corrosion.

Done this service to past vehicles with great results.

Posted

Pic of the inboard driver front, nothing left of them after 61,000. I put the new cross drilled and slotted rotors in the front and the bosh quiet cast in the rear, new pads and hardware all the way around.. the truck stops a ton better then when it was new.. thinking I hit the setup on this combination.. stock rear rotors could have been turned, there is just enough on them still. Original front rotors were grooved, pitted and warped. Trashman will take these..

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Posted

Forgive my ignorance, but what does "turning" a rotor do? they spin as the car moves, no?

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