Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I had a tick on my ‘15 when accelerating and even more so at low RPM. I tried switching to premium gas to see if that had anything to do with it and that took care of it. Never had the tick again. Even went down to the mid grade fuel still with no tick. I was on a 3 year lease so I didn’t worry too much about it since I knew I was going to turn the truck in anyway. My solution wasn’t very cost effective by paying more for gas, but it worked for me.

Posted

I ran a tank of premium a month or two ago and had no change in the noise.  Seems strange that a noise that can be initiated/stopped with a turn or a bump if fuel related.  But none the less I did a seaform treatment this weekend.  Since the air intake was slightly loose on the throttle body while spraying the can of seafoam in, I had an extremely rough idle and "low power" light on the dash.  The engine was shaking around pretty bad, and would make a rattle/clatter sound on the lower driver's side of the engine.  Seemed to sound similar to the noise we hear inside.  But I might just be grasping at straws here.

 

I put seafoam in the tank too.  And will run a higher octane the next few tanks.  But as I said, because the noise is intermittent, I am doubting it is related to fuel quality.

  • Like 1
Posted

Mine is getting very consistent in nature. If I do a long moderate brake pressure stop from a higher speed like mph 50+ it will be quiet every single time I start moving again until I hit some sort of decent sized road imperfection. My quickie exhaust flapper wire open finally came apart last week (I can hear a squeak again) and it seems my ticking is much louder again at its peak noise levels. 

 

I have been to busy to make an appointment with the service guys. I will try and do that this week. Also going to try and ratchet strap the engine with some downward pressure. If that keeps the noise quiet that will tell us it is something related to external components. If it stays present with bumps and such it would be internal engine (I still don't see how that is possible unless it is torque converter related?).

 

Will let you know what I find. 

Posted

I ran some Lucas injector cleaner through mine and cinched up the pcv valve a little bit, and the noise stopped for a couple hundred Kms, but the air temp was cooler. 

 

Its back yesterday, air temp is around 34 degrees centigrade.

Posted
15 minutes ago, Jonty711 said:

I ran some Lucas injector cleaner through mine and cinched up the pcv valve a little bit, and the noise stopped for a couple hundred Kms, but the air temp was cooler. 

 

Its back yesterday, air temp is around 34 degrees centigrade.

Be careful with that PCV screw.  It's weak aluminum.  I sheared mine off this spring while attempting to tighten it.  No improvement with a new, tightened screw.

Posted
4 minutes ago, AdamGMC2017 said:

Be careful with that PCV screw.  It's weak aluminum.  I sheared mine off this spring while attempting to tighten it.  No improvement with a new, tightened screw.

Thanks for the heads up. Just gave it a quarter turn. It’ll get no more. 

Posted

I just noticed a rhythmic tick when i started the truck in my garage the other day. First time I’ve ever noticed. At idle, it’s a slowly paced tick that I notice from under the truck. Not a fast paced like something’s vibrating. Is this a fuel pump

Posted
6 minutes ago, Jchoi said:

I just noticed a rhythmic tick when i started the truck in my garage the other day. First time I’ve ever noticed. At idle, it’s a slowly paced tick that I notice from under the truck. Not a fast paced like something’s vibrating. Is this a fuel pump

Could be any multitude of things 

 

fuel pump

lifter

injector

vacuum pump

ac compressor

belt tensioner

 

does the tick go away upon acceleration?

Posted (edited)
1 minute ago, Sierra Dan said:

Is the ticking lower in the engine oil pan or transmission area?

Lower for sure. Seems louder from passenger side. Truck is 3 months old .  Could be off about passenger side but definitely lower. 

Edited by Jchoi
Posted
6 minutes ago, Jonty711 said:

Could be any multitude of things 

 

fuel pump

lifter

injector

vacuum pump

ac compressor

belt tensioner

 

does the tick go away upon acceleration?

I’ll have to check, but I didn’t notice it Until I parked it In the garage. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • How did all that extra get added? AI bot! 
    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...