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Trying To Understand Learning Process and Break-In


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Posted

Hey Folks,

 

Sorry if this has been covered already. I've been reading through a ton of threads and am trying to understand the whole "learning process" with our trucks. I have a brand-spankin' new 2017 6.2L rolling off the carrier next month.

 

In the Owner's Manual it mentions not to drive over 55 MPH during the break-in period. To me that initial period is not one of normal driving. So, is the engine/transmission supposed to learn your acceleration habits during that abnormal period? Or does this process take much longer?

 

When the new vehicle comes in next month I want to be able to take it out and put it through its paces to check for any flaws, but most of the problems seem to kick in (from what I have read) around 2K to 3K miles. So I might not detect anything on a test drive of a vehicle with 4 miles on the ODO.

 

Just wondering how I should treat it or things to be alert to during those first few weeks.

 

Regards,

John

Posted

I always drive them like I would normally drive, with the exception being a little harder on the test drive. Back when I used to haul my own equipment, I get the fifth wheel installed and start pulling right away. That covers 454,390,V-10s, Cummings, power stroke, never any problems.

Posted

Agree, just drive it like you drive now. Nothing special.

 

I have not driven any of our new vehicles any differently when we purchased them and they all have been just fine.

Posted

Thanks guys...I thought so. Never heard of driving 55 MPH for 500+ miles.

Posted

I did the break in for my truck. Really sucked keeping it at 55 mph and below. Also I varied the engine speed. If you aren't keeping the truck past the powertrain warranty I wouldn't worry.

 

 

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Posted

You should revise that statement to be if you want to keep it past the powertrain warranty don't follow that garbage in the owners manual. Even GM themselves sends a proper breakin procedure out for service replacement engines that is what should be in the manual. Heat and load seats rings.. always has and always will. Granny driving glazes walls. On these it's mostly the difference between an engine that has a dry intake manifold and no real reason for a catch can or the slew of oil with guys cleaning their cans out every couple hundred miles.

 

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Posted

Straight from your owners manual:

 

The vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in. But it will perform better in the long run if you follow these guidelines:. Keep the vehicle speed at 88 km/h (55 mph) or less for the first 805 km (500 mi).. Do not drive at any one constant speed, fast or slow, for the first 805 km (500 mi). Do not make full-throttle starts. Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle.

 

I will follow what the manufacturer says about break in, because you know they engineered and built the car. But hey, that's just me, do what you want.

 

 

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Posted

Straight from your owners manual:

 

The vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in. But it will perform better in the long run if you follow these guidelines:. Keep the vehicle speed at 88 km/h (55 mph) or less for the first 805 km (500 mi).. Do not drive at any one constant speed, fast or slow, for the first 805 km (500 mi). Do not make full-throttle starts. Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle.

 

I will follow what the manufacturer says about break in, because you know they engineered and built the car. But hey, that's just me, do what you want.

 

 

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And play the game of roll the dice... will it suck oil like crazy or seal up correctly. Gm has an actual real break in procedure that mirrors that of anyone with an engine building background would use. That stuff in the manual... well as long as it lasts the warranty and with their requirement of what... a quart of oil every 500 miles before it's abnormal consumption... good enough. The general public would never follow the procedure correct or otherwise anyway....

 

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Posted

This is what comes with the service replacement LS engines for fun..


Start-up and Break-in Procedures
Safety first. If the vehicle is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked and
the car cannot fall into gear. Verify everything is installed properly and nothing was missed.
1. This engine assembly needs to be filled with oil. After installing the engine, ensure the oil system has
been filled with the appropriate motor oil to the recommended oil fill level. The LS9 crate engine requires a
special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M (this will be specified on the oil label). Mobil 1 is one such recommended
oil. Other oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic
oils will meet this GM standard. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. If using GM
12629421 oil tank, make sure that the oil level falls within the cross hatched area on the dipstick once the oil
is warm. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid,
etc.
2. The engine should be primed with oil before starting. Install an oil pressure gauge (the existing oil pressure
sensor location at the upper rear of the engine may be used) and disconnect the engine control system (removing
power from the engine control module is generally recommended, but check your engine control system
information for additional details). Note: Disconnecting only ignition or fuel injector connectors is not
recommended – make sure the control system will not provide ignition or fuel to the engine.
3. Once the engine control system has been disconnected, crank the engine using the starter for 10 seconds
and check for oil pressure. If no pressure is indicated, wait 30 seconds and crank again for 10 seconds.
Repeat this process until oil pressure is indicated on the gauge.
4. Reconnect the engine control system. Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises. If no unusual
noises are noted, run the engine at approximately 1000 RPM until normal operating temperature is reached.
5. When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow
the oil sump and water temperature to reach 180°F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration
runs.
6. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide
open throttle (WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations.
7. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
8. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in
gear.
9. Change the oil and filter. Replace the oil per the specification in step 1, and replace the filter with a new
UPF48R AC Delco oil filter. Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine
is functioning properly.
10. Drive the next 500 miles (12 to 15 engine hours) under normal conditions. Do not run the engine at its maximum
rated engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.
11. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine
is functioning properly.



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Posted

I wouldn't worry about it. Myself and the guys I work with get a new company truck every few years. We pick them up 4 or 5 hours away and drive 80 mph up the interstate and the next day we are in 4 low crawling up an old logging road. Drive them to 150k miles or so with no problems.

Posted

New components generate a lot of heat breaking in and varying the speed and keeping it under 55 helps ensure the parts do not get overheated which can lead to premature wear. This is especially important to the brakes and rear axle which can generate a lot of heat when breaking in.

Posted

This is what comes with the service replacement LS engines for fun..

 

 

Start-up and Break-in Procedures

Safety first. If the vehicle is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked and

the car cannot fall into gear. Verify everything is installed properly and nothing was missed.

1. This engine assembly needs to be filled with oil. After installing the engine, ensure the oil system has

been filled with the appropriate motor oil to the recommended oil fill level. The LS9 crate engine requires a

special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M (this will be specified on the oil label). Mobil 1 is one such recommended

oil. Other oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic

oils will meet this GM standard. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. If using GM

12629421 oil tank, make sure that the oil level falls within the cross hatched area on the dipstick once the oil

is warm. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid,

etc.

2. The engine should be primed with oil before starting. Install an oil pressure gauge (the existing oil pressure

sensor location at the upper rear of the engine may be used) and disconnect the engine control system (removing

power from the engine control module is generally recommended, but check your engine control system

information for additional details). Note: Disconnecting only ignition or fuel injector connectors is not

recommended – make sure the control system will not provide ignition or fuel to the engine.

3. Once the engine control system has been disconnected, crank the engine using the starter for 10 seconds

and check for oil pressure. If no pressure is indicated, wait 30 seconds and crank again for 10 seconds.

Repeat this process until oil pressure is indicated on the gauge.

4. Reconnect the engine control system. Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises. If no unusual

noises are noted, run the engine at approximately 1000 RPM until normal operating temperature is reached.

5. When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow

the oil sump and water temperature to reach 180°F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration

runs.

6. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide

open throttle (WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations.

7. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.

8. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in

gear.

9. Change the oil and filter. Replace the oil per the specification in step 1, and replace the filter with a new

UPF48R AC Delco oil filter. Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine

is functioning properly.

10. Drive the next 500 miles (12 to 15 engine hours) under normal conditions. Do not run the engine at its maximum

rated engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.

11. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine

is functioning properly.

 

 

 

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Oldbay, IMHO, this is the most critical for seating the rings. If you plan on keeping your truck,I'd heed this info. If you're not keeping it passed a few years,I probalby wouldn't worry about any of this.

Posted

Oldbay, IMHO, this is the most critical for seating the rings. If you plan on keeping your truck,I'd heed this info. If you're not keeping it passed a few years,I probalby wouldn't worry about any of this.

I would be curious to know if they do any sort of break in at the factory.

Posted

I would think it's just started long enough to make sure everything is in working order.

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