Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

With our GDI engines, I thought this post from a senior member on the Corvette member was worth the read as it is a good explanation. My dealer said I should have my valves cleaned about every 25k miles - that's gonna be very expensive (and require a lot of crushed walnut shells).

 

So, has anyone had their valves cleaned?

 

"I've EXCLUSIVELY used Top-Tier gasoline for over a decade, and the research on the benefits is compelling in traditional fuel-injected engines. However, the research is also beginning to show that Top-Tier doesn't prevent the emerging problems of valve deposits on gasoline, direct-injected (GDI) engines, and all the LT engines now are GDI. In fact, the majority of modern engines now are GDI.

In traditional port-fuel injection engines, the injectors spray fuel on the valves, and the detergents in Top-Tier fuels do a good job of keeping them clean. In a GDI engine, the fuel is injected directly into the cylinders, by-passing the valves, and the same cleaning effect does not take place. The industry has recognized that new oil and fuel standards are required for GDI engines, and they are under development, but, as of yet, it's not clear what the answer is.

Thus, it's questionable that Top-Tier fuel alone can produce the same benefits in our GDI engines. It's a potentially, very large, "ticking time-bomb" w/ many GDI cars showing severe valve deposits relatively early in their lifetimes. Right now, the only solution is removal of the top-end, and mechanical valve cleaning."
Last edited by Foosh; 07-10-2016 at 10:43 AM.

 

Posted

I doubt anyone has as of yet. I would venture to guess that only the exhaust valves are going to show any real deposits. I would just have the GM top end cleaner or something similar ran thru every 10k miles to keep the deposits on the low side.

Posted

Throw a can of Seafoam, CRC or Gumout intake valve cleaner through every 25K. Lots of discussions on catch cans and if they help. I'm not taking my truck in every 25K for a valve job; instead I run Seafoam through and at 42K haven't experienced an engine failure. To my knowledge there is no stated requirement in our warranty books and schedule of maintenance that says a valve job is required...sounds like a major upswell by your dealer...much like them trying to sell you a highly encouraged paint sealant at time of purchase.

  • Like 1
Posted

25k is a bit excessive but you guys are over-imagining the procedure. They just pop off the intake manifold to clean the valves.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

engine needs complete tear down, cleaning, and then rebuild every 25k. Dealer is 100% correct

 

I just checked the 2016 Silverado User Manual maintenance section, and there is no mention of this "complete tear down". It is hard to believe that GM would build and people would buy a truck that needed a complete tear down every 25k.

 

I would love to hear from anyone who has actually had a "complete tear down" at 25k.

Edited by ColoRetiree
  • Like 1
Posted

I don't think he REALLY meant a 'complete' tear down - it's just the underside of the intake valves that need cleaning as with a DI engine there is no gasoline being sprayed to the under side of the valves. Thus the article was that even Top Tier gas does no good in keeping the valves clean when they don't get sprayed in the first place.

Posted (edited)

This issue has been discussed exhaustively in the catch can thread. It would take a while but you should read through that.

-

-A mechanical cleaning is one way to clean the valves. The other method is to run Seafoam or do a BG Induction Service which pumps cleaning chemicals into your engine at the throttle body to clean the valves. This should be done every 15,000 miles. Nothing that goes into the gas tank will every wash over the backside of the valves so Gumout, STP, and Techron fuel system cleaners or Top Tier Gasoline will do nothing to keep your valves clean. They will, however, help other parts of your fuel system so it's not a bad idea to use these products.

 

My personal opinion, your manual doesn't say anything about it because these engines likely won't have major mechanical issues from valve buildup until 100k+ miles. At that point, cleaning the valves would be a "repair job" not a maintenance item.

Edited by txab
  • Like 1
Posted

Running a higher octane fuel in these GDI will do nothing as far as cleaning the valves. 87 for me.

 

Correct. I run 89 based on the recommendation of Blackbear Performance with regards to engine knock. I run Shell for it's top tier status with regards to cleaning the engine. But yes either way it will do nothing for the valves themselves. Only a manual cleaning, upper induction cleaning service, or prevention with a catch can will help the valves. I prefer a combination of using the catch can to reduce the valve buildup and an upper induction cleaning service every 15,000 miles to clean off the stuff that does get by the catch can.

Posted (edited)

There is no reference in either warranty or maintenance guide of a valve cleaning. Like I mentioned earlier, I do a GDI valve intake cleaning at 25K and every oil change I throw a whole can of Seafoam into the crankcase when there is about 5% oil life left on the OLM which for me is about 350 miles. You can get any brand of intake valve cleaner from Wally World for $6-$8. I haven't taken the valve cover off or seen my intake valves, but I am confident and comfortable that my truck will suffer some other catastrophic failure such as a water pump or transmission, long before my engine takes a dump. Last I saw the newly redesigned 3.5 Ecoboost coming out next year will have a port injector to hose of the intake valve with gas. The new Tacoma 3.5 taken from Lexus already runs this setup.

Edited by txab
removed off topic material
Posted (edited)

hmmm.....Gm reconfigured the intake/outlet ports on their heads to minimize the problem recently......hmmm.....go check out the Ford Ecoboost boys forums all coked up at 50,000K.....hmmmm Ferd's new 3.5 EB has completely addressed this seemingly made up problem of GDI's coking the valves to Mt Rushmore granite hardness!

 

All of which are facts and all of which can be found on the internet......interesting!

Edited by mookdoc6
Posted (edited)

http://artofgears.com/2016/02/26/all-2nd-gen-3-5l-ecoboost-v6s-for-f-150-to-benefit-from-direct-port-injection/



Back on topic, I don't think you need a mechanical cleaning every 25k miles but how much are they charging for it? I do like mechanical versus chemical just so it's not blowing all that crap through your engine and exhaust system.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by txab
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,462 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...