Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Found this thread....   I did my lower ball joints about 3-5k ago (85K).  I noticed this front end popping noise while going through our local McDonald's drive through, before and after the lower ball joints.  Left hand curve and cambered. I just came in from outside and jacked up my front end.  Checked for TRE and bearing play.  Nothing.  Everything is tight.  My upper Ball joints were good when I did the lowers. The studs were not sloppy and had no play. I still hear this noise every now and then when going through the drive through. I torqued the lower and upper control arm frame bolts too.  I am starting to think it's a shock/strut issue.  Nowhere near bad enough to make me replace the shocks though. 

Edited by FL335i
Posted

I had the same problem on my 2014 Sierra. It turned out to be a lose upper control arm. Tightened it where it mounts to the frame and well the knock was gone. 

Posted
I had the same problem on my 2014 Sierra. It turned out to be a lose upper control arm. Tightened it where it mounts to the frame and well the knock was gone. 
You might want to get the alignment checked.. The UCA bolts have cams and slots for alignment


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
14 minutes ago, Hillwood said:

You might want to get the alignment checked.. The UCA bolts have cams and slots for alignment


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

I did, but no longer have that truck. 

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I have had my 2018 GMC Sierra checked for the front end noise three times and I was told it was normal! This makes no sense to me. Do anyone know of any recalls for this problem? 

 

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Any update on this? I’ve had shocks, upper and lower ball joints replaced along with control arms. Dealer didn’t have a clue on what it was but wanted too tear down my front end for 500.00 bucks. Lol 

Posted
On 4/21/2019 at 11:39 PM, clock929 said:

 I was told it was normal! This makes no sense to me. 

 

Welcome to GM, this wont be the only time you hear this unfortunately.

Posted

Wheel bearing on its way out? Can cause a pop noise when weight is transferred to the other side of the truck (ex. turning) if the bearing is worn enough. Just replaced both on my 2014 1500. 105,000 miles. Usually you will hear a howling/grinding noise along with it though. Seems like you guys have replaced everything in the front end but. 

 

Check your CV axles, if you have a torn boot it can get the universals dirty/worn out and make noise on turns also. I have also done one CV on my 2014. 

Posted

 Checked the cv. Everything seemed good. No torn boots and not much play in them. Also checked running boards and there tight. 

Posted
2 hours ago, WCMS said:

 Checked the cv. Everything seemed good. No torn boots and not much play in them. Also checked running boards and there tight. 

Check your exhaust, the flex pipe may be touching the frame. Im hunting a rattle in slow speeds and i think that is my issue.

Posted
9 minutes ago, Ozer said:

Check your exhaust, the flex pipe may be touching the frame. Im hunting a rattle in slow speeds and i think that is my issue.

I’ll check it out. This feels like a popping in my floorboard. Only happens when going over bumps and uneven surfaces. 

  • 8 months later...
Posted

Hi, just checking to see if you got a resolution to the popping or clunking....same issue here.  Had it checked twice and the crossmember TSB retorquing performed, still does it - but I do notice it does it ALOT more when the humidity is low, and when it's raining, hardly does it at all....

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Hey Guys and Gals! I have read a lot of the comments about the "Clunk and Pop issue" everyone is having out of their Chevy and GMC trucks. I had the same problem out of mine. I thought it was an issue with the yoke at the back of my transmission and the dealership greased that. It still clunked when shifting into gear and was told it was the nature of the beast. So I drove it. I now have 57K on it and it had started creaking and popping along with the clunking. I took it to two local shops and both told me they didn't know what could be causing it. I took it to my dealership this week and told them the problem. What the mechanic found was a transmission mount was loose and several suspension bolts were loose. They couldn't believe they were like that. He said they are supposed to be torqued at the factory but obviously that had not been done. After he tightened and torqued all of it, it did away with clunk and pop in the driveline and suspension on my truck. I also called GM at the 1-888-988-7267 number and told them of the problem. I mentioned that I had read a lot of reviews about this problem. I was told by the customer rep that they did not have a lot of complaints about this issue. If you have had this issue you need to call and complain about it. Calling them and letting them know is the only way the issue will get resolved. They will send the complaints to the factory so the torque issue can be addressed by Quality Control. Just thought I would let you know in case you are still having issues with this.

20190620_183340.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

My front end popping and hurling was from the ass hats removing the camber lockout inserts doing alignments. Put on a set of dirt king camber lock out plates about a year ago no more clunk or jerk in turns or tires wearing out too quick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey everyone,   For anyone looking at roof-mounted lighting for the Hummer EV, we wanted to share our M&R Automotive 50" PRO Roof Light Bar for the 2022+ GMC Hummer EV.   The curved 50" bar sits close to the windshield rather than sticking way up above the roofline. The mounting position is designed to keep the setup relatively streamlined while minimizing wind noise and maintaining full use of the factory windshield wipers.   A few details:   50" curved PRO light bar Fits 2022–2026 GMC Hummer EV Spot + driving beam pattern TIR optics White main beam Amber DRL backglow Approximately 15,410 measured lumens through the lens Mounts to factory accessory locations No cutting or drilling required Wiring runs down the A-pillar toward the AUX connections Designed to minimize wind noise Lifetime warranty Off-road use only     The 50" is an interesting middle ground for anyone who wants the visibility and mounting position of a roof bar without stepping all the way up to the larger 60" setup. For the Hummer EV owners here, would you go with the 50" for the lower-profile look or step up to the full 60"?  
    • My son got a hatchback withe the aero package for like 17k new. Great little car with amazing MPH
    • Yeah, I've given up years ago with that! I was able to load a few when I first joined the site sometime around '07. Then after maybe 20 pics, it said I exceeded the limit. Now every pic I try to post says I've "exceeded 1mb".   ONE MB??? That's Windows 95 ******, lol!! 
    • I get the same results with pictures. Then I figure it out. Then I forget. Screw it.
    • I guess I'm the only one on this forum who can't get effing pics to load here! Do you have to resize them to post, or am I just blocked from uploads?   I have the same luck with automotive electronics ... but this is the ONLY site on the net that I have this problem!   I'd post pics of what I'm working on ... but I CAN'T! 🤬       Just fabbed up the kickdown cable (had to extend the cable mount WAAAY out from the throttle shaft to get a full pull), and parts arrived for the fuel lines on the 940 carb conversion project. Should be able to drive this thing by the end of the day. If not for work, I'd have had this thing done SIX weeks ago.   Got the jetting sorted out last week. Had a real bad tip-in bog that I couldn't seem to correct. Friggin float height was over 11mm too HIGH! eBay purchase, so no wonder everything is screwed up right out of the box! I ended up with a larger dual-squirt accelerator pump jet anyway instead of the single. Also moved the 70 primary idle jet (4 sizes too big out of the box) to the secondary idle circuit, and installed a 57 in the primary. Runs great on the fuel bottle!    Still using the computer for ignition. Going to drive it first and see if I want to go through the project of installing an intermediate shaft with a distributor drive gear, so I can install a block-mounted distributor and run points, 100% computer free. I should do that anyway just from a simplicity / reliability / tunability standpoint. The electronics left me stranded last year a couple times! I can't tweak the timing to my liking right now because of the computer. Tried twisting the cam-driven distributor already ... and the damned thing just reverts back to where it was! That's infuriating. But if it runs well enough I might save that for next season.   Just driving it in and out of the shop to work on other projects, it feels 1,000% more responsive with the carburetor. Also fires MUCH faster when cranking. Can't wait to drive it and see if I got more than 114 ponies, lolol.   Hopefully these don't go 404 like the last post ... https://postimg.cc/gallery/MjhrmZS   Seems like that site went back to dial-up internet! Maybe they'll fix that some day ...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...