Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Personally, I didn't like the Philips. The light was whiter, but not brighter since there are no LED pieces on the distal tip in the bulb. I ordered the JDM white LED lights and love them for reverse lights. I can see so much farther and behind and around the sides backing up. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND USING THE JDM BULBS!! For bed lighting, I ended up just using the Phillips bulbs since I already bought them and didn't want to piss the money away. I don't use that overhead lamp much, so the Phillips work well enough. The Phillips license plates lights look good too.

I bought the JDM's on your recommendation for the reverse lights, which I love but I also bought the Phillips for the brake lights and was not impressed. I am going to send them back to Amazon and get the JDM's for the backup, front turn signals and the cargo light. The JDM 800 lumens were quite bright and didn't need to pay $10 more for the 1200 lumens.

Posted

Touch more then 50 but I call it the tug box the 50 was 50 itself ce4399437b965e47777d4699ebc9b511.jpg1c9d97ae25190885f8078115a48004c9.jpgdcda3bd404830cdb49333bbf43fbc89b.jpg434f2123757c1ec788f115dd8b32e98d.jpg

 

Canadian winter is coming so figured I needed something for my stuff

 

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Do you have a link for this box?

Posted

Do you have a link for this box?

Unfortunately no link because I bought it from a local store they just happened to have a bunch at the door they ordered

 

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Posted

Darn it good point! I crumpled and tossed out the extra pieces lol

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

do you have the ebay link?

Posted

I bought the JDM's on your recommendation for the reverse lights, which I love but I also bought the Phillips for the brake lights and was not impressed. I am going to send them back to Amazon and get the JDM's for the backup, front turn signals and the cargo light. The JDM 800 lumens were quite bright and didn't need to pay $10 more for the 1200 lumens.

Good luck with that. Jdm leds are cheap and burn out all the time. Id stick with some name brand ones for the peace of mind.

Posted (edited)

 

Do you still have the link?

This is the one I bought and it came with two pieces for the both emblems. With the left over i could have perhaps done the steering wheel and z71 but I just re-ordered more :)

 

http://m.ebay.com/itm/161953750934

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by asalinasz39
Posted

 

 

Sure I'll try, haven't posted a pic on this forum yet, but here goes.

 

Go to Amazon or similar and order these:

1N4004 400V 1A Axial Lead Silicon Rectifier Diodes

 

You only need one really but order 25 as it's just as cheap once you take into account shipping if you try to order just one.

Plus if you bend or break the one diode, you have back ups.

 

 

Then you'll look under your dash above your gas pedal. You'll see a bunch of small power blocks inserted into a larger one.

You want to locate the BROWN one.

At the top you see a release latch. Go ahead and push it in and pull the small BROWN electrical block out of the larger one.

Twist it around so it's oriented with the release latch up.

 

Using the diagram in the picture I've attached, locate pin/cable slot #10. It's obviously 2 slots over from #8 that's marked on the diagram. Insert one end of the electrical diode down into that #10 slot. If needed use a needle nose pliers. The diode pins are pretty bendable so just make sure you get some of it down into the #10 slot.

 

Then go down to the bottom (last row away from the release latch and go to slot #22 (clearly one over from the #21 that's marked in the diagram).

Push the other end of the diode down into the #22 slot.

 

Once you have them both in the #10 slot and the #22 slot, you've made a jumper "bridge" between the two.

Gently twist the BROWN electrical cube back so it's oriented and push it back into it's motherboard. It will click back in.

 

Insert key in your ignition and test it out.

You're FOG LIGHTS should automatically be ON if your low beam headlights are ON.

When your low beam headlights are OFF, the fog lights will also be OFF.

 

You can now just leave the dash mounted headlight selector in AUTO and your low beams and your fog lights will both automatically come on each and every time your headlights come on, and go off when the headlights go off.

All done.

Thanks for this! I just got my diodes tonight so will put one in tomorrow morning.

  • Like 2
Posted

Frame Plugs

 

ff799122aa8865802ff9ba42dea067de.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Caps that cover the holes and keeps dirt, mud, critters from getting in there.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got these an they really clean up the look of the rear of the truck, thanks for the suggestion

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 3
Posted

Phillips 921 LED / T16 (12789LPB2) Bright White Vision LED - 2 pack. You'll need 2 packs for a total of 4 bulbs.

 

Phillips 194 Bright White Interior for the License Plate bulbs - 2 pack.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Both sets of these bulbs are 25% off right now at amazon. Have to place separate orders though.

  • Like 1
Posted

Did you guys self install the driver assist handle? Dealer wants to charge $100 for it

 

Wow, I'd love to charge someone $100 to install that handle. Took me about 25 mins and that was being extremely careful and being interrupted.

Posted

 

Both sets of these bulbs are 25% off right now at amazon. Have to place separate orders though.

Just got these installed they look so much better than stock because they are a true white instead of the yellow, in terms of the backup light output i noticed a slight improvement in the camera view, but I am not a good judge as I just got my driver and passenger windows tinted today too...needless to say that has a little bit of an effect on it..haha

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 497 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...