Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2014 silverado with OPT7 5000k LED's in the Fogs.

output 100x better than stock and match my 5000k in the oem projectors perfectly

$35 shipped

 

pic below showing fogs on only. really happy with these

27x1q4i.jpg

 

looks great where did you buy? do you have a link?

 

thanks

Posted

An oem wiring harness to access rap, battery power, crank accessory power and ground. $45 is a cheap way to insure we don't short something tapping it or catch on fire.

 

2d3c22d840a7911b5533979e4df86a1f.jpg

 

$45 plus shipping

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

An oem wiring harness to access rap, battery power, crank accessory power and ground. $45 is a cheap way to insure we don't short something tapping it or catch on fire.

 

2d3c22d840a7911b5533979e4df86a1f.jpg

 

$45 plus shipping

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Tell us more. What p/n? What are you going to use it for?

Posted

I have this harness providing trigger power for a relay to a viair onboard air compressor and a fass 150. I have it powering floor led lights, lights in my tool box that I tapped into the bed rail lights. It powers a hard wire USB charger to power an iPhone 6 Plus that I use for my tuner and the 12v air valves for my train horns and tank drain system.

 

 

 

 

Tell us more. What p/n? What are you going to use it for?

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

That seems like a lot of $$$ when the parts are relatively cheap.

Edited by wuznme
Posted (edited)

The parts aren't all that expensive but the time it takes to solder every joint, heat shrink or braided shield every harness and pin and to offer replacement for even abuse is the difference. Homemade improperly crimped harnesses will short under excessive load or pull out of the connector. I've written up plenty and offered documentation to anyone who wants to build their own.

 

The thing is that some people can't or don't want to do it. If you want support with wiring or prints I give that too. These aren't assembly built. I hand build, test and stand behind every one. It's not just putting them together. Anyone can crimp with a pair of plyers or use the wrong terminal for different gauge wires. I put the proper pieces together at the same price as buying them at wholesale pricing from gm ($40-$50 based on other forum members) and my wire far exceeds theirs in friction resistance and better conduction. Buying wholesale from terminal suppliers is def cheaper if you have the proper crimper, solder and skill set.

 

If you are an average joe with some projects, buying a $30 crimper and soldering iron isn't practical. If you are capable, then build your own and save. If you want to have support and warranty, I'm happy to assist. I value my time and think it's fair.

 

That seems like a lot of $$$ when the parts are relatively cheap.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited by iamdanieltuck
  • Like 5
Posted

Great thread guys, couple questions

 

1. Question on Fog light mod, is that the same mod that keeps fogs on when you hold on bright temporarily?

2. Rail caps, thank you sir Ive been wanting these since I bought my 14, drives me nuts! looks like they match up good???? I'm gonna order a set

  • Like 2
Posted

Great thread guys, couple questions

 

1. Question on Fog light mod, is that the same mod that keeps fogs on when you hold on bright temporarily?

2. Rail caps, thank you sir Ive been wanting these since I bought my 14, drives me nuts! looks like they match up good???? I'm gonna order a set

Yes - Fogs stay on when high beam is on.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

looks nice. I've been meaning to look for some that would match my tungsten metallic.

 

I'd take any extra and do your steering wheel also.

Edited by bndawgs
Posted

looks nice. I've been meaning to look for some that would match my tungsten metallic.

 

I'd take any extra and do your steering wheel also.

Darn it good point! I crumpled and tossed out the extra pieces lol

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks, all. It sounds like keeping the software "as is" is the best course of action.
    • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overengineering   Excerpt from the above link: (BTW the above is a 90 second read)   [Quote]   A story about very precise engineering is given in the 1858 story The Deacon's Masterpiece or, the Wonderful "One-hoss Shay": A Logical Story by Oliver Wendell Holmes Sr., which tells of a carriage (one-horse shay) Because it had been engineered so that no single piece failed first – no piece was over-engineered relative to the others, and they thus all collapsed at the same time. A similar quote by Ferdinand Porsche claimed "the perfect race car crosses the finish line in first place and immediately falls into pieces."[5]   [End Quote}   By Engineering's  own definition then; the AFM and Torque Converters, 4-5-6 clutch assembly of the 6L80E, and a dozen other common chronic parts and systems failures are "UNDER ENGINEERED". And by their own definition done so with INTENT. Ya can't have it both ways OEM's.     
    • Everything you need to know..... https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/198157-2014-2017-dl8-dl3-towing-mirror-upgrade-–-mirrors-explained/
    • I was in Utah this week attempting a bow hunt in the Wasatch mountains with friends.  On the evening of the first hunt, making my way across a ridge to a friends camp, the upper control arm on the driver's side separated, the CV axle got trashed, and the wheel was dang near at a 45 degree angle to the ground.  I was able to get it towed off the mountain and into town about 3:00 am, and spent the remainder of the night in an O'Reilly's parking lot.  Luckily, there was a Chevrolet dealership not to far away so I was able to get to the dealership and pick up a new CV and UCA.  It would have been a few days before they could have gotten to the truck and I brought tools with me on hunt since it was a two day drive to get there, so I did the repairs myself in the O'Reilly's parking lot.      What's interesting is that the UCA ball joint didn't break, it just popped out of the bottom of the UCA.  There was VERY LITTLE evidence of grease on the ball joint or in the socket, and you could see where the ball joint had warbled out part of the socket over time.  I guess that's what happens over 186K miles of use :)   Big Kudos to O'Reilly's for letting me work on the truck in their parking lot.  However, they made a $150+ off of me from the purchase of various tools, so I guess it was in their best interest anyways :)   Getting towed off the mountain.   UCA Ball Joint Socket   Trashed CV   Suspension disconnected and UCA and CV Removed   New UCA and CV installed with the suspension buttoned up.    
    • My family still laughs at me when they see me drive up in the minivan. Same with less than a V-8 truck. It helps that I have choices. I don’t think I could only have a minivan as the one and only vehicle as much as I like it. And I wouldn’t pass up a good buy on an older V-8 reg cab GM truck. Could you live Raven as the only ride?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...