Jump to content

$50 and under modifications

Half_ton

By Half_ton
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bobaloo22 Enthusiast

Bobaloo22

Posted
Posted

I was thinking about treating inside the tubes first just to be sure.

  • Replies 874
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Marv88
Marv88

Sprayed my a pillars black with SEM Bumper Coater  

Driver72
Driver72

Sure I'll try, haven't posted a pic on this forum yet, but here goes.   Go to Amazon or similar and order these: 1N4004 400V 1A Axial Lead Silicon Rectifier Diodes   You only need one really but

SSam
SSam

Added a neodymium magnet to the steering column to hold the key fob still. $18 and a piece of double sided tape. The fob sticks right to it and does not bang around any more.   The magnets were

Posted Images

Eddie 70 Senior Enthusiast

Eddie 70

Posted
Posted

Seems like I saw a hole in the tube about halfway down IIRC.

 

Every time I wash my truck I usually squirt those tubes out with water. I usually squirt water into the holes in the frame to chase debris out. EVERYTIME I make sure to wash the edges of the wheel wells good with water and chase all the loose dirt and crud out. In the winter after salt has been put down, I come home and use the lawn sprinkler under my truck to rinse it off as best as I can.

  • Like 2
Sierra706 Senior Enthusiast

Sierra706

Posted
Posted

They were cheapo lights from Amazon (forget the seller off the top of my head) but they were under 20 bucks for 8 of them and since I only used 5 I have 3 as spares, so we'll see how long they actually last. I then bought some bolts and nuts from home Depot for a couple bucks, and measured out where I wanted the lights to go on the air dam. I drilled a hole big enough to fit the wires through in the center where each light is and 2 offset smaller holes for the bolts. I wired the lights in series, with the negative wire (white) going to a grounding point, and the positive wire (black) to an add a circuit in the fuse box using the fuse socket that powers the front right marker light.

 

Materials:

8pc led marker lights from Amazon ~$18

10 bolts/nuts that fit the lights mounting holes ~$5

15 amp micro2 add a circuit ~$7

Wire, wire taps and quick connects ~$20

 

If a few people want me to do a how to with pics I will

 

Sent from my E5506 using Tapatalk

Which fuse did you jump? Want to post a picture of your connectors?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

kverduin Enthusiast

kverduin

Posted
Posted

Which fuse did you jump? Want to post a picture of your connectors?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Towards the middle of the fuse box under the hood, there's two blue micro2 15 amp fuses. If you read the bottom of the fuse box just look for where it says Park light left and park light right. You can jump either one as they both go on with parking lights. I'll post detailed pics tomorrow

 

Sent from my E5506 using Tapatalk

Sierra 5.3 Enthusiast

Sierra 5.3

Posted
Posted

I was thinking about treating inside the tubes first just to be sure.

I had a rock in mine and made sure to take it out, then used an air hose with an attachment to blow as much dust and crap out as I could before capping them up. It's a small upgrade that really cleans up the look I think.

  • Like 2
kverduin Enthusiast

kverduin

Posted
Posted

Which fuse did you jump? Want to post a picture of your connectors?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

a146f0f8e518a9b8de3d338956185a05.jpg

Because of the way the add a circuit faced I chose to use it in the micro fuse socket you see in the pic, but you can also put it in the 15 amp micro fuse socket next to it since they are both for parking lights

 

Sent from my E5506 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
kverduin Enthusiast

kverduin

Posted
Posted

Which fuse did you jump? Want to post a picture of your connectors?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

c4952bc07fd6c5df777242bb632be31a.jpg

A shot of my fuse box so you can see where I have the add a circuit plugged in

 

6e7a3e48521d46ad781a91baf588fa84.jpg

This is the add a circuit I used. It's for a micro2 fuse and rated for 15 amps

 

fb0279ae2200ff39a0378642ae134e96.jpg

This is where I grounded out the negative wire for the lights. It's the space for a second battery on the drivers side of the truck. The lights I bought use the black wire for power and the white wire for ground

 

Sent from my E5506 using Tapatalk

asalinasz39 Enthusiast

asalinasz39

Posted
Posted

Re-did my rear bowtie as i had messed up a bit the first time and also did the Z in the front as per members request. The steering wheel bowtie was a challenge and I didnt really like it but maybe ill give it another go later.d584f8d2d87543844da7b83ccc4f91be.jpg20855f460a77618829566d406d738621.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 6
Daryl LBZ Senior Enthusiast

Daryl LBZ

Posted
Posted

Re-did my rear bowtie as i had messed up a bit the first time and also did the Z in the front as per members request. The steering wheel bowtie was a challenge and I didnt really like it but maybe ill give it another go later.d584f8d2d87543844da7b83ccc4f91be.jpg20855f460a77618829566d406d738621.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks great!

Sierra706 Senior Enthusiast

Sierra706

Posted
Posted

Re-did my rear bowtie as i had messed up a bit the first time and also did the Z in the front as per members request. The steering wheel bowtie was a challenge and I didnt really like it but maybe ill give it another go later.d584f8d2d87543844da7b83ccc4f91be.jpg20855f460a77618829566d406d738621.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you remove the Z from the grille while working on it?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

asalinasz39 Enthusiast

asalinasz39

Posted
Posted

Did you remove the Z from the grille while working on it?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope. I just placed the vinyl where its at and cut around it with a box cutting blade. Just press on decal with thumb to feel the edge and stick to it with blade.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sierra706 Senior Enthusiast

Sierra706

Posted
Posted

Nope. I just placed the vinyl where its at and cut around it with a box cutting blade. Just press on decal with thumb to feel the edge and stick to it with blade.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm actually trying to remove mine completely as it blocks part of my lightbar. Haven't had a chance to take the grille off and look at it yet.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Marv88 Enthusiast

Marv88

Posted
Posted

Re-did my rear bowtie as i had messed up a bit the first time and also did the Z in the front as per members request. The steering wheel bowtie was a challenge and I didnt really like it but maybe ill give it another go later.20855f460a77618829566d406d738621.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is one of the sharpest looking front ends I have ever seen in this generation of trucks!

  • Like 5
bndawgs Senior Enthusiast

bndawgs

Posted
Posted

I'm actually trying to remove mine completely as it blocks part of my lightbar. Haven't had a chance to take the grille off and look at it yet.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The mount for it is part of the grille unfortunately.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 277 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • whenindoubtuseahammer
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By whenindoubtuseahammer · Posted

      Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...