Jump to content

The new norm?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Have a 2012 Sierra, 6.2L.

 

Over the last three months, intermittent "Service Stabiltrack" and Service Traction Control" messages have been showing on dash, along with messages telling me both systems were off. Set up an appointment and took it into the dealership to get it diagnosed but was turned away because the warnings were not showing at the time I arrived.

 

In the meantime, I had a low beam light burn out so bought two and decided to replace them myself (really, how hard can that be and I did not want to pay the $160 fee for the dealer to do it). This "simple" operation took me over three hours and two skinned knuckles and had to dismantle/remove air cleaner housing, spare battery tray and window washer fluid container. The biggest issue though was trying to get my hand in through the extremely small space to reach the bulbs.

 

Anyway, as the warning lights were now on full time, I took the vehicle in to the dealership at 10:45 this morning. It took them over two hours to diagnose and another three hours to fix. The problem turned out to be a steering wheel turn sensor. Apparently this sensor affects the other two sensors, so they shut down and killed the Traction and Stabiltrack.

 

Cost to me:

 

$7.50 for bridge toll the first visit.

$7.50 for bridge toll the second visit.

$77.11 for the faulty sensor. and wait for it.......

$550.00 for labour to put in the sensor (apparently you have to dismantle the steering column and associated assembly).

 

And just to make me feel better, one of the salesman tried to sell me an $82,000 3500 HD while I was waiting.

 

When I was paying, I asked the service rep if the designers ever gave any thought to making these new vehicles easier to work on, especially for small things like changing bulbs. He just looked at the other employees and they all smiled.

 

Go figure.

 

Marv

Posted

It is no worse than the 1970's when emission systems were cobbled together and vehicles were designed to be serviced every 6 to 12 thousand miles.

 

Yearly tuneup? Carborator rebuild every couple of years? Valve/head work @ 100,000 miles? Exhaust falls off every 2 years? Coolant flush every other year?

 

Some things got better, some things have gotten worse, overall however, very few vehicles from last century went 100 thousand miles on original spark plugs, much less suspension parts or anything else really.

 

Service work is still possible diy. It just takes more than basic hand tools now.

 

A service manual probably would have helped ya!

Posted

Okay, the procedure to change bulbs is a lot simpler than the way you did it.

 

1. Remove 8 push retainers from the black cover that's between radiator support and grille. Remove cover.

2. Remove 2 10mm screws that hold the grille, then squeeze and push clips out holding grille, remove grille.

3. Remove 2 10mm screws at top holding headlamp assembly and loosen 10mm screw on the side ( Do not remove). You can now pull headlamp housing away from body and change whichever bulb you need to change. 30 minutes top!

 

2016-10-07%2009.42.40_zpsx6l81h2l.jpg

Posted

On my 2006, you pull a pin. No tools required. Hopefully they'll get back to that eventually.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted

Okay, the procedure to change bulbs is a lot simpler than the way you did it.

 

1. Remove 8 push retainers from the black cover that's between radiator support and grille. Remove cover.

2. Remove 2 10mm screws that hold the grille, then squeeze and push clips out holding grille, remove grille.

3. Remove 2 10mm screws at top holding headlamp assembly and loosen 10mm screw on the side ( Do not remove). You can now pull headlamp housing away from body and change whichever bulb you need to change. 30 minutes top!

 

2016-10-07%2009.42.40_zpsx6l81h2l.jpg

Makes perfect sense to have to disassemble the whole front end of the truck to change a light bulb (especially if you've had to change headlight bulbs 4 times in the past 2 years)

:rolleyes:

Posted

I don't think there is a lot of things engineered for service.

Pay or do it yourself.

Simple. :happysad:

Posted

Yea, the headlight thing isn't stupid; it's beyond stupid.

I have an '03, and as others here have commented, a single pin (no tools required), and in moments, you can change your lamp.

I can picture being out of town and needing to change a bad headlamp(s) in an Autozone parking lot (at night, in the middle of winter) & dismantling the front end under a street light...

Posted

Honestly guys it looks worse than it is, just two screws and a bunch of clips, everything weighs nothing because it's all plastic. It takes me 2 minutes to remove the cover and the grille.

Posted
.... I had a low beam light burn out so bought two and decided to replace them myself (really, how hard can that be and I did not want to pay the $160 fee for the dealer to do it)....

" It takes me 2 minutes to remove the cover and the grille."

$160 for a two minute job = $4,800/hr....

Posted

See you're exaggerating, it takes an other 2 minutes to put it back together. So $2,400/hr is more like it. I changed all 4 markers, both high beams and both low beams in less than 30 minutes.

Posted

... it takes an other 2 minutes to put it back together. So $2,400/hr is more like it....

Ha Ha, that's a little more reasonable...

I'm just venting here.

Hell, I could replace a (mechanical) fuel pump in 30 minutes.

 

Cheers

Posted

I had similar problem brought it in to stealership under warranty they couldnt figure it out so they replaced the battery and alternator and said it was fixed so the next day when it happened again i started digging around and found an loose ground strap above the steering colum under the hood and tightened it and problem went away

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...