Jump to content

Spark plugs


Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anybody upgraded the spark plugs. I'm thinking about upgrading my wires and was curious about the plugs too?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

leave them alone. Unless you have over 100K... you are wasting money. Most agree OEM is best when talking about plugs and wires...

Posted

I'm planning on getting new long tube headers and found the subject on new Taylor spark wires for better clearance and I was just curious on if I should get new plugs too. Nothing wrong with them. I was just curious.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Stock plugs are fine unless you are having to change the heat rage, not normally something you do unless you are on forced induction. The stock plug wires are decent, the Taylors and MSD will have less resistance per foot which means more spark energy will make it to the plug. Will you notice anything, I doubt it.

Posted

I put a set of Taylors on mine,really smoothed out the idle night and day difference! All together it just runs better and I picked up a slight very slight mpg increase.

Posted

I put a set of Taylors on mine,really smoothed out the idle night and day difference! All together it just runs better and I picked up a slight very slight mpg increase.

 

Can you link me to the wires you got?

Posted

I'm planning on getting new long tube headers and found the subject on new Taylor spark wires for better clearance and I was just curious on if I should get new plugs too. Nothing wrong with them. I was just curious.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Just an FYI, stock wire do fit fine with Headers, I have no issues with rubbing or touching.

 

With that said, I would like to change the plugs and wires at some point, so I am curious also as to what others are running for plugs, or just get OE again.

Posted

The ohms resistance my stock wires was 2000 +or- 100 across all 8, on the Taylors wires I got 250 ohm +or- 10 on all 8.

Posted

I got them in Summit racing.com best 60 buck I've spent. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/tay-79203

 

Thank you for the link and info.

 

With headers, I would like to put some boots on the wires just as a precaution. While I do that, I might as well add new wires. While I do boots and wires, wonder if I should do plugs too.

 

This list is getting longer every second.

Posted

leave them alone. Unless you have over 100K... you are wasting money. Most agree OEM is best when talking about plugs and wires...

I would not go 100K miles with same plugs at all! These GDI engines EAT,FOUL and CRAP out so called 100K plugs in 60K. Do yourself a favor and @60K toss em! THEY DO NOT LAST 100K

Posted

Yup, certainly worth a good inspection of the plugs come say... 60,000 miles.

Posted

It's called being proactive. I don't wait until my brakes are metal on metal before I replace.

 

While it might not add any performance, it wouldn't hurt to do.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,732
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    user087
    Newest Member
    user087
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 624 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Here's a starter kit:    CC Jensen, a Danish oil testing Concern gives us the following guidelines:   ISO 14/12/10 Very Clean Oil ISO 16/14/11 Clean Oil ISO 17/15/12 Lightly Contaminated ISO 19/17/14 New Oil ISO 22/20/17 Very Contaminated and not suitable for any service.   In addition CC Jensen gives a table showing how engine life is increased by cleaning up the oil. For example cleaning the oil from 19/17/14 to 13/11/8 will extend motor life by a factor of 6X.   But even cleaning it two “Life Extension Classes” will double motor life. So perhaps giving those classes would be useful:   21/19/16 20/18/15 19/17/14 18/16/13 17/15/12 16/14/11 15/13/10 14/12/9 13/11/8   *************************************   https://testoil.com/program-management/setting-iso-cleanliness-targets/   Third paragraph from the bottom will give a starting point.    Your next question should be, okay 10um at what Beta ratio and the answer is in the graph Beta 75.   Then the next question is what is your chosen filters profile? (Purolator PL series below) The red dot is Beta 75. This was the information I obtained from MANN a few years ago. So the best filters, Purolator One, AMSOIL EA, FRAM Ultra, Royal Purple, Bosch Premium should get a doubling engine life over filters like Purolator L, any service filter from any quick lube, WIX, NAPA, STP, Mobil 1, Purolator BOSS.    And as noted by CC Jensen a 2-5 micron @ Beta 200 bypass system has the capability of a six fold improvement. AMSOIL has such a system as does Donaldson.       Now having said all that testing is the touchstone. Test the oil NEW and test it with your chosen filter. Then test over milage. Do the work, get the result. But understand this in NOT absolute BECAUSE this is one factor in isolation.   Example:    A valve spring supplier can state that with cam X and a valve train of Y grams the valves will not float to 7K rpm. is that true if the builder choose a system 20 grams over limit? Common sense must be used and limits understood. 
    • This doesn't look like a GM truck. Not needed on a HD truck
    • It varies a ton around me. Some places are still at $5.00 or higher and others are way down into the $4's.   Offroad diesel was $4.02 at the one station I passed today.
    • So after reading the reveal from Chevrolet, I kept asking myself...why did the trim levels change?   Here are the official ones:   Work Truck (WT): The quintessential fleet truck, built with durable, easy-to-clean interiors for commercial or utilitarian use. Custom: A stylish, road-oriented trim that adds a more refined appearance, standard dual exhaust, and modern exterior styling. Custom Trail Boss: An entry-level off-roader featuring a 2-inch factory suspension lift and 34-inch mud-terrain tires on a budget. Silverado: Serving as the new base consumer truck (replacing the previous LT trim), it comes standard with the Z71 off-road package when equipped with 4WD. Trail Boss: Steps up the off-road hardware with the 2-inch lift, 34-inch tires, monotube shocks, an exclusive off-road hood, and more premium interior options. ZR2: The flagship off-roader. It boasts 35-inch mud-terrain tires, Multimatic DSSV dampers, front and rear electronic lockers, forged carbon-fiber interior accents, and an available hardcore Bison Edition (co-developed with AEV). High Country: The pinnacle of luxury. It replaces bright chrome with modern satin chrome, 22-inch wheels, premium leather, real wood interior trim, a panoramic sunroof, and an exclusive front-passenger touchscreen. As others have stated, why would you want a Silverado - 'Silverado' - wth?? LT needs to remain!!!   Also, there will no longer be a dedicated Z71 model.  All 4x4 trucks will have the Z71 package. Carplay is also something that cannot be removed.  Hopefully it will remain.     I am excited about the 5.7L V8 (350 C.I.D.)  Old school Chevy power.  My only concern is whatever version of AFM/DFM cylinder deactivation.  Too bad that isn't an option a buyer can choose to have or not.   I will definitely be stopping by my local dealership when these trucks start showing up.
    • I haven't seen diesel for less than $5.30 anywhere in my area
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...