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Bad Traction


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Posted

Well after only 12,000 on my Michelins, they seem to be horrible for traction in the snow!! During the last two snow storms, I can't even pull away from the intersection without causing traction control to go nuts (in 2-wheel drive). I slid through an intersection while braking and I was only going 8 MPH!

 

I have about 350 pounds in the bed to help, but doesn't seem to make much of a difference.

 

Now most of the time I use 2wd because it's in the city and there are many, many dry patches. And the highways are the same thing, slippery spots with lots of dry pavement. I'm really beginning to miss the Auto4wd setting from the 1500s.

 

Are these stock Michelins just that bad after a few miles? I don't recall having this problem last winter.

 

Upgrading to new tires is not an option this winter.

Posted

I think the stock Michelin's are fine overall

 

Lower the tire pressure to 50 front & 60 rear - unless towing / hauling will help (no low tire pressure warning will light up at these pressures (45 front & 50 rear if you don't mind the dash light warning)

 

Trucks are light in the rear (even with weight in the bed) and anticipate that - in snow 2WD it will be slipping & activating Traction control (on/off/on/off/on ... ) UNLESS you turn off Traction Control (which I do on snowy roads) but leave on StabilTrak) > (StabilTrak will prevent sliding sideway - always good)

 

 

How To:

Push the Traction button once will turn off Traction Control / Push & Hold the Traction button for 5 seconds will shut both Traction & StabilTrak / Push button again will turn both on / Shut truck off and restart will again put Traction & StabilTrak on -

 

Stopping is a mater of slowing sooner and not sliding - your choice on your aggressiveness - cannot turn off anti-lock brakes

 

If your think your want a dedicated tall, thin, lug snow tire then do it, maybe rims too, they will grip way better in snow BUT you will see how nice the Michelin's ride after you ride on snow tires

Posted

Southpaw your up north and Im way south so you got all the experience for snow all the time. But here Id be in 4 hi even with the spots of dry patches. I think pulling away at a intersection would help in 4hi verses 2wd. Im sure you have much more time behind the wheel in snowy roads but i would suggest stay in 4 hi and see how she does. My Mich AT2 tires seem to be pretty good all around tire.

Posted

I am of the same mindset as Southpaw. I couldn't deal with the stock Michelins for anything but nice hard surface roads in good weather. I finally had to put a crowbar in my wallet and put on some KO2's, one size up from 265/70R18 to 275/70R18. Brought the speedometer to dead on accurate and the traction and ride were significant improvements.

 

I agree though, drop the PSI when empty or light loaded. I got a load pressure chart from BFG on the KO2's that give the optimum PSI to run based on the load on the tires. The OEM door jam sticker assumes you have the 2500 loaded up to a gross of 9500 lb. Most folks aren't anywhere near that on a daily basis.

 

Here is the load pressure chart from BFG on the KO2's. I would suspect similar pressures would apply to the Michelin. Same company, just different tires, both with E rating.

 

BFG KO2 18.pdf

 

 

 

BFG KO2 18.pdf

BFG KO2 18.pdf

BFG KO2 18.pdf

Posted

My rear pressure is around 57 PSI and fronts are around 60. I had the rears lower, but the TPMS was always going off and the annoys me.

 

I have not tried turning off traction control, so I'll give that a whirl next time it snows.

 

And I guess over-using 4wd is probably better than sliding all over the place.

 

Cowpie, I think I'll end up with BFGs sooner rather than later.

Posted

I got two Winters out of my michelin's, when I took them off they had around 21,000 miles on them, and we're still serviceable for dry roads, but definitely not winter time. The second winter I ran them they were fair at best. I upgraded to a set of Cooper Discoverer AT3 in a 275 70 18, couldn't be happier

Posted

An option is to add more siping to the tire. I think Bell and Discount do this. Sipes are the little cuts in the tread and more makes the tire get more traction by adding more surface area and softens the tire a bit. The sipes flex and open to get more bite. You may have them, most tires do but you can add more. This would be your cheapest option. The tires you have are hard, that's why they last so long but are not great in snow. That's why you don't run winter tires year round, they would wear out fast. For the 4x4 on dry pavement, it's OK straight line but very hard on it to turn on dry pavement. Google this to see what I mean. Siping should be your answer.

Posted

Those LTX AT2 leave much to be desired in the snow. I think the all season option on those 18"s does better (Goodyear SRA). Our guy that runs the plow in the winter loves the trucks with the Goodyears and hates the ones with the Michelins. The 16' we set up for plowing has the Michelins.

Posted

I have never heard that the SRA's do better at anything than the LTX AT (or LTX MS even), and my personal experience has been the same. The Goodyears don't grab in any condition.

 

In my opinion, with any snow rated tire, OP would be set. If you can't upgrade tires now, there aren't really any options...

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted

If you're not buying winter tires (or a tire and rim package) then additional weight, and air pressure adjustment, are the only options.

Posted

I have never heard that the SRA's do better at anything than the LTX AT (or LTX MS even), and my personal experience has been the same. The Goodyears don't grab in any condition.

 

In my opinion, with any snow rated tire, OP would be set. If you can't upgrade tires now, there aren't really any options...

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

 

The SR-A in the E load GM size 265/70/18 have some difference over the P rated design in the 265/65/18 GM uses. Same "design" if you will, but the tread is set up different. More open than the P tire.

Posted

Good information, thanks guys.

 

I looked at the siping of the tires, but that voids the warranty, and at this point I would not want to do that. I'm guessing winter tires will be on the agenda before next winter.

Posted

Good information, thanks guys.

 

I looked at the siping of the tires, but that voids the warranty, and at this point I would not want to do that. I'm guessing winter tires will be on the agenda before next winter.

 

The dealer that told you that is not fully correct ... you can bring the pressure down to the point just before the tire pressure warning lights up on the dash - about 50 front & 60 rear - driving with all tires inflated to the MAX for towing or hauling when your not towing or hauling makes for a miserable riding truck, and there is no absolute need to have them inflated to max recommendation unless towing or hauling ...

 

your choice

Posted

The dealer that told you that is not fully correct ... you can bring the pressure down to the point just before the tire pressure warning lights up on the dash - about 50 front & 60 rear - driving with all tires inflated to the MAX for towing or hauling when your not towing or hauling makes for a miserable riding truck, and there is no absolute need to have them inflated to max recommendation unless towing or hauling ...

 

your choice

I was referring to siping, a process where a machine cuts some sort of additional side grooves to provide more traction.

 

I currently have my rears down to around 57 and the fronts near 60.

Posted

I was referring to siping, a process where a machine cuts some sort of additional side grooves to provide more traction.

 

I currently have my rears down to around 57 and the fronts near 60.

 

sorry - my bad

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