Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Is it possible to swap out cloth non heated seats from my 2014 silverado WT2 for leather heated seats? I know my truck isn't set up for heat and I could careless if I even hook that up. I'm just looking to swap the cloth out for leather and be able to keep the power to them. Just worries about the air bag, any info wild be helpful.

Posted

Katzkin would be the way to go for sure. You could possibly run into SRS (airbag) issues as well with this swap.

  • Like 1
Posted

Well I could get the entire inside of an LTZ for under $1000 CAD(including centre Console). This is why I'm asking as I'm for sure swaping out Console but if they is any way at all to make swaping seats out work.. I'd love to do it for as cheap as I can.

 

Also, how much for the leather katskin leather kit for the 2014 Silverado crew cabs?

  • Like 1
Posted

Well I could get the entire inside of an LTZ for under $1000 CAD(including centre Console). This is why I'm asking as I'm for sure swaping out Console but if they is any way at all to make swaping seats out work.. I'd love to do it for as cheap as I can.

 

Also, how much for the leather katskin leather kit for the 2014 Silverado crew cabs?

They will work

Posted

So there's a plug for the power on them? Then a separate plug on them for the heated seat part? Your sure there would be no issue with the air bags or seat belts?

 

I hope your right as my truck is about to go through a huge transformation as I want to do this then add the 2014 GMC Sierra Denali cluster along with a 8" screen. Got people ready to do that just wanna ensure I can swap the seating.

Posted

Can someone please help me with this, I have until tomorrow to make the choice to buy the interior. I have a chance to create one hell of a WT truck, but need to confirm these LTZ seats will work and they have same airbag lay out?

Posted

I'll go this far. The SRS seat wiring schematics shows only one version for GM 1500 series trucks. WT vs Denali vs LTZ does not matter. Buy or not. It's your call.

Posted

Thank you for replying, so as far as schematics go it should be fine?

 

I'm in a tight spot as I can't just go look at the connections or anything due to being up north working, so thank you for the help.

Posted

Good luck with your project. I would also check with GM customer services technical advice for their response. I am curious as to why you would ask the question. I would have gone ahead with the deal without imagining a problem! Have you read somewhere that seats are not interchangeable?

Posted (edited)

Thank you for replying, so as far as schematics go it should be fine?

 

I'm in a tight spot as I can't just go look at the connections or anything due to being up north working, so thank you for the help.

You'll want to check the X310 connector and look at pins. This is the main harness that the seat harness connects to and goes forward to various locations for the connections.

 

When I was looking for a dome lamp circuit under the seat, in my 2016 LT, the Upfitter guide showed this signal present but my harness wasn't loaded for it.

 

In the 2016 Guide, it shows connection locations for the seat heater, power seat adjustments, etc.

 

a3b0d6bac33b8c711338305865d07002.jpg

 

5cf761118af90da5376bebdb1eff5c27.jpg

 

For 2014, unfortunately, the Upfitter guide is a MUCH smaller guide (254 pages instead of 1500 pages for 2016-2017). There is not much references to this connector in the 2014 Upfitter.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by pgamboa
Posted

Since the guy said if it doesn't work I can bring them back.. I'm for sure going to attempt to put the LTZ leather seats in the WT. I'm for sure adding the centre console as I know that will be fine. With the rubber black floor, jet black interior and a white accent dip for all moulding.. I think this WT is going to be one amazing looking truck.

 

I'll be starting a build thread for it as soon as I go on days off as I already have rims, tires, tonneau cover, cold air intake, running boards HIDs, 40" light bar(behind grill) ordered.

 

I have lots more work to be done to it after this but I'll be nick naming this "Western Edition".

 

 

The only thing I can't make my mind up about is if I should put the Additive desert chase rack on or not as I can get bran new for $1000CAD right now.. can't make up my mind by the slightest for this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 446 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...