Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

That is just beautiful..definitely adds a whole new look to it..thx for taking the time to post all the info..much appreciated

 

Support the NRA

Posted

It's funny, I work at a dealership and wanted to do the same thing to my 17 as I love the look of the new 2500 hoods but we had no idea if they would fit. We were hoping to get spare hood in at some point and I'd try it to see if it would fit but now that it does, I'm gonna go ahead and do it.

Thanks for the part numbers OP! Though that hood for me in Canada at my cost is 860$ lol urgh.

 

Where abouts in Canada ? I may be able to get you some pricing if you are in my area

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Looks badass man, only 1 more thing I would do... color match the outer grille surround.

 

can you post pics under the hood with the insulator and your CAI, I am curious

Edited by camcamaro1991
Posted

Where abouts in Canada ? I may be able to get you some pricing if you are in my area

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm in Winnipeg, all parts are sooooooo much cheaper in the US. Even at my cost, they are always more lol.

I don't need any help with the parts, my boss will get "creative" for me lol.

  • Like 2
Posted

Op great looking truck.. well I'm not gonna be the first to do this mod on the silverado.. the hood line is for the HD headlights.. wouldnt look good on a non hd headlights.. who knows I might do a complete hd conversion..

Posted (edited)

Where abouts in Canada ? I may be able to get you some pricing if you are in my area

As it turned out, my price was for everything. When I told our parts guy a while ago that I wanted it, he looked up everything. I also just pre sold my current hood for 900$, so the conversion won't cost anything.

 

The hood must be steel, that's the only way it's so cheap.

Edited by TheGovernment
Posted

in for updates. interested to see this done on the silverado

 

Alot of money involved... it's nowhere near what the op paid to do his..

Silverado's need the hood, headlights, grill shell, and bumper.. and who knows if you need Springs, bolts, or anything else

Posted

Is there an easy way to add the hood but have the air intake hole plugged ? I want the hood but don't care about its ability to be functional

 

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Posted

Is there an easy way to add the hood but have the air intake hole plugged ? I want the hood but don't care about its ability to be functional

 

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

But if it just so happens to be functional why would you plug it?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

But if it just so happens to be functional why would you plug it?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Because I have a gasser and I don't have a cold air intake

 

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Posted

Just finished my HD hood install on my 2016 GMC And I would like to share the part numbers and information for anyone that would like to do the same. This should be the same for 2014 and up. For Silverados

I think the same parts are required just different part numbers.

 

Parts:

 

Nut

Part Number: 11546860 $2.31 × 4 $9.24

Assist Spring, RIGHT

Part Number: 23258272 $17.24 × 1 $17.24

Insulator Retainer

Part Number: 11571159 $2.84 × 6 $17.04

Insulator

Part Number: 84101780 $63.22 × 1 $63.22

Duct

Part Number: 84167144 $211.30 × 1 $211.30

Hood

Part Number: 84152916 $385.56 × 1 $385.56

Vent

Part Number: 84183578 $105.49 × 1 $105.49

Spring

Part Number: 23258271 $17.79 × 1 $17.79

Hinge

Part Number: 84097791 $27.83 × 1 $27.83

Hinge

Part Number: 84097792 $27.83 × 1 $27.83

* Subtotal Amount: $882.54

 

Prices based on GMDirect

 

77f5e9c15fcbb26be969297d4caa696a.jpg

1c4837398d2100538d5526c2448ce41f.jpg

55d2f8ab9104f2e7d49de69fce001d71.jpg

73138f795e76890139fd288fba3fd813.jpg

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for posting this, great looking truck. I can't wait to do this to mine!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Because I have a gasser and I don't have a cold air intake

 

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

I'd just leave it instead of going through the trouble of plugging it.. and get an intake. I mean it's kinda dumb to get a functional hood and make it non functional. But whatever do you I guess.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

Is there an easy way to add the hood but have the air intake hole plugged ? I want the hood but don't care about its ability to be functional

 

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Don't buy any of the intake stuff and leave the hole open..... Though that really seems pointless lol

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,355 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...